I am looking at geting a fishing kayak, like the Ocean Kayak Prowler 15 and would like to know if any of you have a kayak like this on your stock rack and what you have used. Pictures would be great.
all you need is the gray closecell form blocks .they fit the gross bars.slide the front bar all the way foward.when your done kayaking they can be stored with boat .other set ups end up way to high.i haul a 17' british pintail on mine.straps & blocks under $40
Stock rack, one side strapped onto the big side bar of the rack-the other on the flimsey cross bar. All before I put my Yakama cross bars on (Yakama mounts in photo gallery)
all you need is the gray closecell form blocks .they fit the gross bars.slide the front bar all the way foward.when your done kayaking they can be stored with boat .other set ups end up way to high.i haul a 17' british pintail on mine.straps & blocks under $40
I wouldn't even think about loading onto the stock crossbars themselves. Make a small investment and get proper bars from Thule or Yakima.
I wouldn't even think about loading onto the stock crossbars themselves. Make a small investment and get proper bars from Thule or Yakima.
While you are right that the Thule and Yakima bars will support more weight, however, there is absolutely no problem with using just the stock crossbars as long as you aren't trying to carry a fiberglass or plastic double. One single 50ish pound kayak....no problem you just have to strap it down properly. I've run this set up for a year now on my stock rack, no problems.
Quote:
vodooomt6 previously said:
all you need is the gray closecell form blocks .they fit the gross bars.slide the front bar all the way foward.when your done kayaking they can be stored with boat .other set ups end up way to high.i haul a 17' british pintail on mine.straps & blocks under $40
This is the same way i carry my NDK Explorer. Here's the pictures:
I have to vote no on using the stock crossbars as well. This is risky even for a small whitewater kayak IMO. I've done it but my concern is the plastic ends on the crossbars. My kayak is 35# but with a 65 mph wind and a 50 mph gust from the semi you meet on a 2 lane road, the force on the bars is significant. As I have said before, if your boat leaves your rig, you are responsible for the traffic carnage behind you.
SteveFJ is right about strapping down-if you use the factory crossbars, you had better have bow and stern lines to something solid and strap onto the side bar.
Take NVSteves advice and get real crossbars. My set up was about $12 plus the bars.
Last edited by Razor J : 01-26-2007 at 07:29 AM.
Reason: Add photo
I have to vote no on using the stock crossbars as well. This is risky even for a small whitewater kayak IMO. I've done it but my concern is the plastic ends on the crossbars. My kayak is 35# but with a 65 mph wind and a 50 mph gust from the semi you meet on a 2 lane road, the force on the bars is significant. As I have said before, if your boat leaves your rig, you are responsible for the traffic carnage behind you.
Exactly. I've seen a number of unfortunate mishaps involving kayaks ripping off the factory racks they were tied to. Then again, the internet is full of stories from people who don't use the proper front & rear tiedowns, so the weak factory crossbar isn't the only concern. I haul around 2x 16' fiberglass kayaks, and I only trust my Thule rack with the front & rear tiedowns. I'm not so worried about my own vehicle, but I'd sure hate to skewer the car behind me.
Vodoom, just stay away from me while you drive around with your ultra secure minicell mounting system. I don't have a mirror mounted air freshener and I don't want your pintail duck boat on my mirror either