Ask the Bellydoc

homedad · 05-06-2007, 05:09 PM

Well Doc this is for you .....ask Doc ANY question.....I just want to see if anyone can stump him enough to make him cry...I bet you get the right answer or a really funny answer...either way it saves me a search....ok ask away....

I'll start....were can I mount some "o-sh1t" bars in the back??? Kurt

**BellyDoc** · 05-06-2007, 05:24 PM

Quote:

homedadr previously said:

Well Doc this is for you .....ask Doc ANY question.....I just want to see if anyone can stump him enough to make him cry...I bet you get the right answer or a really funny answer...either way it saves me a search....ok ask away....

I'll start....were can I mount some "o-sh1t" bars in the back??? Kurt

You've GOT TO BE F'n KIDDING !!!!

K... I'm going to pretend to take you seriously here...

Do you want something for people in the backseat to hold onto while you go washboarding, or hit a momentary zero gee?

If so, I'd fabricate something that fixes to the seat frame or even the mounting for the seat down below.

If I'm reading your mind correctly, my next puzzle would be to figure out the ergonomics. I wouldn't want to make it tougher to climb in and out by having to get around this thing. I also wouldn't want to make it force people to lean forward to get ahold of it. It might have to move and also lock.

If you put a cross-piece in front of a backseat passenger, you should do two things. First, verify that they're seatbelted. Second, make them show you proof of health insurance that covers dental reconstruction.

If you actually want to try to think this out. I'm up for participating in at least the conceptual phase. Whether I can prototype it or not is another question.

I have a F'ing frozen Morris taper tool holder in my milling machine and I'm going to have to get serious with a hammer before I can cut steel with any precision again. Every time I walk by it, I squirt it with a little Break-Free in the hope that I'm contributing to penetration... It's not going well.

RapidFJ · 05-06-2007, 05:37 PM

Quote:

BellyDoc previously said:

I have a F'ing frozen Morris taper tool holder in my milling machine and I'm going to have to get serious with a hammer before I can cut steel with any precision again. Every time I walk by it, I squirt it with a little Break-Free in the hope that I'm contributing to penetration... It's not going well.

If it's actually a Morse taper that can be a b*tch. I've run into problems disimpacting Morse tapers on several occasions. It's wierd how somehow just the right little tap will suddenly knock it apart. Sometimes certain vibrations seem to help. Also, depending on how it's configured you may be able to get a puller of some sort over it. Also, you might try heating up the out part a bit to see if it will expand a bit relative to the inner part.

**FJoel** · 05-06-2007, 06:36 PM

There is no place to fit a drift in there??? A drift is a wedge piece shaped of metal for those following along...

That is just dumb!! Who makes a morse taper spindle with no drift slots??? Try extending the quill all the way down if you haven't already, but I assume you knew they usually have drift slots.

1leglance · 05-06-2007, 06:40 PM

how do I stop the squeaking noises in my new allpro front susp?
Hey cool I don't have to use the search function anymore!

**BellyDoc** · 05-06-2007, 07:11 PM

Quote:

RapidFJ previously said:

If it's actually a Morse taper that can be a b*tch. I've run into problems disimpacting Morse tapers on several occasions. It's wierd how somehow just the right little tap will suddenly knock it apart. Sometimes certain vibrations seem to help. Also, depending on how it's configured you may be able to get a puller of some sort over it. Also, you might try heating up the out part a bit to see if it will expand a bit relative to the inner part.

Quote:

FJoel previously said:

There is no place to fit a drift in there??? A drift is a wedge piece shaped of metal for those following along...

That is just dumb!! Who makes a morse taper spindle with no drift slots??? Try extending the quill all the way down if you haven't already, but I assume you knew they usually have drift slots.

The joke is on YOU, Kurt... this thread is turning out to be a resource FOR me... not OF me!!!!

The drift didn't work. I almost impacted it to the point of not being able to retrieve it. I actually deformed it.

I also tried tapping (aggressively) onto the end of the threaded rod which pulls it up into the spindle with two nuts on top. Nothing.

The gear puller method is my next try. I'll have to detatch the entire head and flip it. I already tried clamping the tool holder into the vice on the crossfeed table and then lever up on the quill... no go. I can't get a real gear puller into the space. I also don't have the center to push on so I have to make a tool just to do this job. It's going to have to push on the steel surface of the head and pull on the tool holder.

The failure here was in moving out of town for a year and then coming back to my shop which had the last set-up still in place.

**FJoel** · 05-06-2007, 07:18 PM

Quote:

BellyDoc previously said:

The joke is on YOU, Kurt... this thread is turning out to be a resource FOR me... not OF me!!!!

The drift didn't work. I almost impacted it to the point of not being able to retrieve it. I actually deformed it.

I also tried tapping (aggressively) onto the end of the threaded rod which pulls it up into the spindle with two nuts on top. Nothing.

The gear puller method is my next try. I'll have to detatch the entire head and flip it. I already tried clamping the tool holder into the vice on the crossfeed table and then lever up on the quill... no go. I can't get a real gear puller into the space. I also don't have the center to push on so I have to make a tool just to do this job. It's going to have to push on the steel surface of the head and pull on the tool holder.

The failure here was in moving out of town for a year and then coming back to my shop which had the last set-up still in place.

That sucks!!! I still don't quite get it though: Morse tapers are self holding, and the mill shouldn't have a drawbar as well. That really would stick it in there.

Good luck! Maybe the penetrating oil is the best bet. I sprayed WD40 in to an old 67 Yamaha Twin 100 religiously for half a year, once a week, and I freed a motor that was seized for 20 plus years...

**BellyDoc** · 05-06-2007, 07:19 PM

Quote:

1leglance previously said:

how do I stop the squeaking noises in my new allpro front susp?
Hey cool I don't have to use the search function anymore!

I'm noticing the same thing. I've seen others here comment on it as well. My theory is that the numerous polyurethane bushings tend to squeak. Some of these are greasable like the ones in the upper A arm. I suspect that you could pack lithium grease into a variety of them. Good luck on getting it to stay in place - some of these go underwater every time you cross a stream and basically all of them get powerwashed every time you clean off after a muddy outing. These bearing spaces are not sealed in to capture and retain grease.

On the other hand, they really aren't highly mobile. Only small amounts of movement happen at each one. The upper A arm probably goes plus/minus 20 or 30 degrees max. The bottom of the shock rotates a bit on it's hinge bolt and moves maybe 10 degrees back and forth, max.

I just check on it every now and then to make sure the parts haven't moved relative to eachother. I'm accepting the squeaks, for now.

Did you get the adjustable external reservoirs like I did? If so, how many "clicks" are you running on the front and on the back?

HammerHead · 05-06-2007, 07:23 PM

Since you are the "Belly Doc" here is one for ya.

Gastric Bypass or LapBand

**BellyDoc** · 05-06-2007, 07:24 PM

Quote:

FJoel previously said:

That sucks!!! I still don't quite get it though: Morse tapers are self holding, and the mill shouldn't have a drawbar as well. That really would stick it in there.

Good luck! Maybe the penetrating oil is the best bet. I sprayed WD40 in to an old 67 Yamaha Twin 100 religiously for half a year, once a week, and I freed a motor that was seized for 20 plus years...

I always felt wierd about the belt-and-suspenders aspect of the threaded draw bar. This is a Harbor Freight Drill/Mill machine that has done years of great service for me but I always wondered why they built it that way. I figured they didn't trust the accuracy of it's construction, therefore I didn't either. Nevertheless, I've never had a problem with the tool holder cutting loose and locking into the workpiece with the head still torquing. ... well, not unless I did something really stupid in terms of way-over-the-top excessive surface feet per minute cutting on steel.

"Hmm... I guess that DID look a little bit too fast... Oh well, I was almost about to trash that end mill anyhow."