I'm looking at a new 2009 FJ. Has the fender rip issue been resolved in 2009 models?
Thanks in advance for any feedback.
Dodger
It depends. 3rd gen aprons have no reported failures yet, so if it was made after august of 08 you should be ok. Just know that it is an issue that may or may not be fixed and its a gamble you are taking. The only thing they did different in '09 is box the rear of the apron.
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Here are some fender tear resources. I hope you find them useful. Please file complaints with your state attorney general and with the NHTSA. Lets make it impossible for Toyota to ignore this plague. http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forum...resources.html
I also spoke with a representative from carmax and they said they would never resell a FJ that has ever had one of these because they consider it "structual damage". Even if you had the fix with new aprons, it would be in the same boat.
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2007 Silver MT:
TRD Exhaust, 3" OME lift, 17 inch wheels, 33" Toyo AT Tires, E-Locker, Demello Tube Sliders, All-Pro Skids for: IFS, Tranny, Transfer-Case, and Lower Control Arm mounts.
Took mine in today to have the it repaired. Looks as if it is going to cost Toyota about $4,000. I will let everyone know how it turns out. Didn't get to see the replacement parts, so I am not sure what the difference is. The manager did say that they were a differnt part number than the last one they replaced for me. Yes this is the second and last time I will have had them replaced.
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07 Vodoo Blue M/T 4x4, TRD Super Charger, Donahoe Suspension, Donahoe UCA's, ICON LCA's, Radflo Rear Shocks, ARB Bumper, ARB Snorkle, Budbuilt Skids and HD Sliders, Demello LCA Skids, Warn 9.5 XP Winch, Walker Evens Beadlock Wheels, Dirty Parts Dual Battery System, Donahoe/Light Racing front and rear Jounce Shocks, Pioneer Z-2, Focal k2P's, JL 10"W3's, Alpine 4.150, Alpine 1.600, Cobra CB, Wet Akole Seat Covers, TT Shift Knobs, TRD Short Throw Shifter, BFG KM2's 285 70 R17, IPCW Front and Rear LED's, Fjoel Grab handles, Battery Clamp and FJ120SC, FJCF Badge
Here's my $0.02 - I'm looking at buying a used FJ as my next car but this is very discouraging. Has anyone tried to do their own mod-work to fix the problem? I'm not an engineer (yet) but I just finished 5 years getting my degree and to me this just screams fatigue failure due to cold working of the metal in the stamping process. Its looks like its failing in the exact root of the indentation. As this panel flexes, all the flexure is going to be localized to the root of this stamp in a bending moment. No doubt the material here has been cold worked during stamping causing it be become more brittle than its surrounding material. Has anyone tried to anneal the area to reduce the internal stresses and make it more tolerable to flexure and reduce its brittleness? What about welding in a fillet or boxing the indentation? Welding the crack itself would likely worsen the issue as the effects of the heating and cooling would likely just worsen the metallurgy and you would still be left with a huge stress concentration. If you were to box it with a layer of similar sheet metal it would reduce the applied stress... orr maybe use a ball peen hammer to make the stamp larger to dissapate the stress over a larger area. Looking at the sketch posted it looks like the stresses are being cause by the panel only being supported at only two fixed points. Perhaps adding a third support directly below the affected area to the frame would help. I have a Bombardier Iltis and they are synonymous with having wrinkles in the body just in front of the windshield from soldiers jumping them during service. Its a similar issue as that section of body isn't properly supported on the frame.
Has anyone attempted their own repairs without replacing the panel? How have they worked out?
Fox,
You hit the nail on the head in a lot of areas:
Fatigue due to cold working - exactly what I thought - its a very typical appearance of that.
Failure at the root of the indentation - because thats the design of the crumple zone...
Not sure that the amount of distortion during stamping is sufficient to have caused that area to be brittle - my limited stamping experience indicated that a well designed progressive die prevents that issue.
Welding, deforming, annealing all are going to change the properties of the steel - most likely negatively.
If you are referring to the sketch I posted - the flex is in the frame IMO - in front of the cabin - where it carries the suspension load and the engine load... (search for post of failed frame at the mount)
Adding a 3rd mount may or may not help increase rigidity of the frame - it will reduce the force resulting from flex at the front mount and distribute that force partially to the new/middle mount. That MAY solve the problem - or just cause it to rear its head elsewhere.
I just havent had the time & my FJ isnt home to design around..but I think a frame stiffener will eliminate the issue altogether...
And I still plan to keep the FJ
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'08 Fusion: ARB rack, custom ladder & Hi-lift mount, DO front bumper, MileMarker Hyd Winch, SPEC Stage-1 clutch, Cobra CB, & more......
Is there a way to file this with the NHTSA if you are a concerned owner but have not experieced the cracking? I have gone to the NHTSA site but the "file a complaint" form asks for specific dates/milage of occurance. A link to an additional form for those of us who are concerned would be appreciated.
Bernd
Linear Mode
