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My brakes just went out. Abs light then brake light then no pressure

12K views 16 replies 9 participants last post by  Shocks 
#1 ·
So on my way to work this morning, my abs light came on, the pedal started shuddering, then the parking brake light came on steady, then thats when the brakes went.

ZERO pressure. Had to use the parking break to slow down.

Checked the reservoir and it was completely filled still, as if it wasn't draining.

Any ideas?

I did look underneath quickly, before going into work, and there seemed to be brake fluid looking oil everywhere underneath, but it was all around the rear diff and surrounding areas. ill check better after work, just wondering if a torn line would cause this?
 
#2 ·
If I'm remembering correctly, there are some issues with the ABS on this truck. Some people have said they have zero pressure in the pedal and others say that the pedal becomes extremely sensitive. Do you recall driving over a rough patch on the road? My brakes went extremely sensitive a couple times driving over some rough spots.
 
#3 ·
not at all. Its been fine all week. I mean ZERO pressure as in it will not attempt to stop and the dash is lit up and a constant beep.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Is it possible that you pinched a brake line when you installed the rear lift of the rock sliders? I seem to recall having to move it.
I have never heard of the brakes completely disappearing.

Maybe check your ABS sensors to see if they are unplugged or loose.
 
#6 ·
i read it as problems/dealer service. Move it if im wrong. But i read to me as 2 seperate tops. Problems or dealer service. my bad. Hasnt been to dealer yet.
 
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#8 · (Edited)
From your description, I'd say you blew a brake line or fitting. A busted line will cause this. I broke the driver front hardline at the caliper when a tree got stuck in my wheel well while backing up. Ripped the hard line from the caliper, dash lights lit up, and I had zero brake pressure, and had to use the ebrake to stop. I replaced the line, bled the brakes, and good as new. As far as the reservoir being full still, I'm not surprised, I still had over half fluid after 30min of the line completely disconnected and continuing pressing the pedal in hope that the rear brakes would have enough pressure, they didn't.
 
#9 ·
update.

all the fluid.. Oil. Firestone neglected to put the seal back in the drain pan screw. So all the build up was oil.

For the brakes, im pretty sure its the master cyl. Theres no brake pressure, they wont bleed and i hear no noises like i use to from the master. Also when i initially opened the fuse box, the fuse for abs mtr was blown. Replaced and nothing happened. It wont build pressure.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Time to call Ghost Busters... You have a lot going on all of a sudden with this truck.
You did not see a Large puddle of oil under the FJ when looking under and noticing the complete under side was soaked with oil??
Fuses rarely just blow/burn out on their own, they are a protection against overload, tampering or damage to the electrical circuit. Maybe tell us hystory of what you have been doing with this truck prior to all of this happening, have you been off road, rock crawling or jumping curbs and ditches. Any recent mods?? Other than the oil leak which you identify as being caused by Firestone what else did they or you work on. It sounds like one of the brake lines or ABS sensors have been damaged at one of the wheels by accident or from lack of knowledge/attention. I would be looking there before randumly replacing a costly master cylinder which are not a common part to fail anymore.
 
#12 ·
This should explain what its been through the last week or so.. :surprise
 

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#13 ·
Even with a failed ABS sensor, i should still be getting brake pressure though i would think.

Theres NOTHING pumping to the rear brakes and no codes being stored.
 
#14 ·
If you're not leaking brake fluid and you have no pressure, then you probably have a bad master cylinder solenoid. There's a pretty extensive test procedure that can be done with a dealer computer to confirm it's the master cylinder solenoid, (probably 2hrs labor), which might not be a bad idea considering just the master cylinder solenoid is $1000 new, whole master cylinder/solenoid/booster/accumulator assembly is $1775 new or $450 from junkyard. Procedure is in the brake section of the fsm
 
#16 ·
Yea i went ahead and bought on. Im gonna install then tow to dealer for the flush. Got the MC for about $380. So its much better. With a 6 month warranty. Hopefully all will go well. Ill keep everyone posted.
 
#15 ·
I'm getting ready to replace the stock brake flex lines with longer SS brake lines and replace the bleed fittings with the speedy fittings. I found out on the trails during the Summit that if I applied the brakes while going off a shelf they weren't very strong, but if I applied, release and applied rapidly they worked much stronger. On the road, if I need to stop or slow quickly, this action will put you through the windshield if you're not wearing your seatbelt. I'm thinking that the much stiffer SS brake lines will help the performance of my brakes.
 
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