Vibration When Braking.. Out of Round Feel In Brake Pedal?? - Page 2

04e46conv · 01-21-2008, 07:45 AM

Quote:

JDMSi92 previously said:

x8 on warpped rotors. Not to be rude but its more than likely caused from excesive braking or riding of the brakes. The FJ is heavy and it would not be difficult to heat them up to the point to where they can warp. If the rotors have hot spots in them from getting way to hot, then you will need to replace them. I don't think the dealer will give you new rotors but they may warrenty a turning of the rotors.

I drive pretty defensively and cost and downshift because I am aware of the weight of the truck so I would find it hard to believe that the rotors are warped because of my driving but if thats is the case then time to get ceramic pads and rotors....

I have an appointment with the strealer this after noon I will let you know if they find any thing...

Thanks all !!

**DEWFPO** · 01-21-2008, 08:00 PM

I had a vehicle that had the brake pedal pulsing as I stopped after the brakes got hot. I loosened all the lugs and re-torqued them to spec and the pulsing went away in a few hundred miles. When I loosened them, it was obvious from the effort needed to remove them, that they were torqued all over the place.

DEWFPO

04e46conv · 01-22-2008, 08:28 AM

UPDATE: I went to the dealer yesterday and they said the front rotors where warped so they cut them and re-surfaced them under warranty.. they said the had never seen a truck with warped rotors with such little mileage and if it does it again with in the 35,000 mile or 3 year warranty they will just put new rotors on the truck because it might have just been a bad cut from the factory...

Thanks again all !!

JDMSi92 · 01-23-2008, 11:31 PM

Do you happen to know if the dealer used an "on car lathe" or bench lathe? I have both at my shop and when you turn the rotor on the vehicle it is much more accurate machining process. You are basicly cutting the rotor to match the hub of the vehicle simulating how the rotor sits on the vehicle with the wheel bolted to it. Just something to consider if you run into a reaccurance.

04e46conv · 01-24-2008, 03:59 PM

Quote:

JDMSi92 previously said:

Do you happen to know if the dealer used an "on car lathe" or bench lathe? I have both at my shop and when you turn the rotor on the vehicle it is much more accurate machining process. You are basicly cutting the rotor to match the hub of the vehicle simulating how the rotor sits on the vehicle with the wheel bolted to it. Just something to consider if you run into a reaccurance.

Yes! It was on a lathe I don't know if I would call it a bench lathe it was a free standing unit that was in the shope...not on a bench but might still be called a bench lathe...

But if it happens again I am getting new rotors on Toyota's tab because rotors should be good to at least 20,000 miles the way I drive not 5,000...

1 Bored Clerk · 01-24-2008, 04:41 PM

You got a crappy rotor or something. I've been pretty hard on a number of Japanese vehicles (Toyota, Honda, Mazda) and have never warped a rotor...even after 100k miles of such abuse. Lots and lots of brake pads...but no rotors. It'll be interesting to see if it happens again. At least you're all straightened out now! Time to drive!!

04e46conv · 01-24-2008, 05:03 PM

Quote:

1 Bored Clerk previously said:

You got a crappy rotor or something. I've been pretty hard on a number of Japanese vehicles (Toyota, Honda, Mazda) and have never warped a rotor...even after 100k miles of such abuse. Lots and lots of brake pads...but no rotors. It'll be interesting to see if it happens again. At least you're all straightened out now! Time to drive!!

Yeah now that I think about it I haven't owned a vehicle long enough to have replace the rotors in the past... So they must have been cut bad from the factory...