*** UPDATED PHOTOS ***
First let me say that Big Bill's install thread was a *huge* help in planning this install, and seeing how to take apart various things on the FJ: http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...l/7685-cobra-75-wxst-bandi-mount-install.html
Equipment total cost - $195 + shipping:
Amazon.com: Midland 75-822 40 Channel 2 Way Radio: Electronics
Midland 75-822 CB Radio, I picked this radio for two main reasons, (a) it's all in the handset and not very heavy, and (b) its versatility to be both a handheld and an in-car unit by swapping the base and adding the small antenna (all included in the original box). The Cobra handset unit on the Big Bill combo page (below) is a fine radio, but I've found the install/removal to not be as clean as with the Midland. If you're going for a full-size CB radio, ignore this advice. The full size units tend to be better quality and more functional than the handset units, but they don't uninstall easily and for trail communications the all-in-the-handset units work great.
Complete Toyota FJ Cruiser CB Radio System "Big Bill Combo" at WalcottCB.com
1. HS818TNKT EZ Install Coax Cable and Antenna Stud (the perfect length, I had about 8 inches of extra cable for where I wired it to the center console, also make sure to get Part # HS818TNKT so it has the removable coupler for easier wire routing)
2. Toyota FJ Cruiser Bandi Antenna Mount
3. K1A Antenna Quick Disconnect
A quick note about the Bandi mount: It looks like the latest Bandi mounts have been redesigned to use a pass-through bolt (like the Boztec's), which makes installation much easier. However, many of these bolts rust almost immediately. So if you pick up a Bandi mount, go to Home Depot or Lowes and pick up a replacement bolt in stainless steel, and throw the provided bolt away.
FLEX4 Wilson Flexible Fiberglass Antenna
(Walcott link for Wilson Flex 4 Antenna broken, switched to Amazon link)
Wilson 4-foot flex antenna (the 3-foot has been discontinued, apparently), flexible enough to run without a spring. This is a big flexibility improvement over the standard Firestik that most people get, without being super flexible like a standard whip antenna. Run this antenna with just a quick disconnect and skip installing a spring.
Bulkhead - UHF Female to UHF Female - RF-7625 [RF-7625] - $4.55
Female-to-female bulkhead adapter, I drilled a hole in the center console and mounted this to take the antenna plug from the radio.
UHF Male to UHF Male - RF-7626 [RF-7626] - $3.86
Male-to-male adapter to make the final connection between the radio and the bulkhead adapter.
SO-239 UHF-Male Connector Protective Dust Cover (97510) - TestParts
I also found a small cap to cover the antenna plug when not in use.
The install:
Antenna + Bandi Mount. I used a knife blade to scrape the paint away for a grounding point here, I also popped off the top piece of plastic trim over the hinge for easier wrench access. Don't try to use an adjustable crescent wrench to tighten the Bandi mount screw, I found a fixed-size wrench that matched the screw size and was much thinner:
Antenna wire entry point - I cut a small hole in the rubber hose here and then ran the cable into the jack compartment. Using zip ties on the inside and outside help to secure the cable:
Running the wire from the jack compartment to the rear seat was the hardest part of the install, the picture below should save you some time. I pushed the seats forward, the exit point for your cable is where you see the rear hinge for the seat. Remove the plate behind the seat (two bolts then pull up), then pull the floormat out from under the plastic trim on the side. There's a screw there, unscrew it and it will give you another 1-2 inches of flexibility on that panel, which makes all the difference for pulling the cable through:
Once you have the cable coming out from under the rear seat:
Pull up the kick plates below the door (seriously, just put your fingers under the inside-side of them and pull up, they pop right off) and you will see a pre-existing channel to run the cable. I ran the cable from here to the bottom A-pillar, up past the fuse box and then over into the center console.
To remove the center console, remove your shift levers and just pull up at the back of the center console, it pops right up:
Once I had the center console off I drilled a hole for the UHF bulkhead adapter and screwed it through the center console. This lets you easily attach/unattach your CB when it isn't in use. To mount it I bought a little adhesive mounting clip ( Amazon.com: Samsonite SBCDM American Tourister Universal Swivel Cell Phone Belt Clip w/Dash Mount: Electronics ), and put the nub on the back of the handset with the adhesive tape that came on it. The clip on the dash didn't hold up very well using the adhesive though...so I used silicone adhesive and that worked like a charm.
When the radio is in use:
When it's not in use:
I was originally going to add another 12V plug next to the antenna plug, but it was much easier to buy a wired 2-jack splitter from O'Reilly for like $7:
Amazon.com: Vector VEC006 Hd Y Socket W/Fuse Dual: Automotive
SWR's tested in the 1.5 range out of the box, so I didn't do any tuning at all. I've been testing the range for the last couple of weeks and in smooth terrain without many obstacles I've seen 2+ miles at some points. So in the hills while offroading, the range is ample.
First let me say that Big Bill's install thread was a *huge* help in planning this install, and seeing how to take apart various things on the FJ: http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...l/7685-cobra-75-wxst-bandi-mount-install.html
Equipment total cost - $195 + shipping:
Amazon.com: Midland 75-822 40 Channel 2 Way Radio: Electronics
Midland 75-822 CB Radio, I picked this radio for two main reasons, (a) it's all in the handset and not very heavy, and (b) its versatility to be both a handheld and an in-car unit by swapping the base and adding the small antenna (all included in the original box). The Cobra handset unit on the Big Bill combo page (below) is a fine radio, but I've found the install/removal to not be as clean as with the Midland. If you're going for a full-size CB radio, ignore this advice. The full size units tend to be better quality and more functional than the handset units, but they don't uninstall easily and for trail communications the all-in-the-handset units work great.
Complete Toyota FJ Cruiser CB Radio System "Big Bill Combo" at WalcottCB.com
1. HS818TNKT EZ Install Coax Cable and Antenna Stud (the perfect length, I had about 8 inches of extra cable for where I wired it to the center console, also make sure to get Part # HS818TNKT so it has the removable coupler for easier wire routing)
2. Toyota FJ Cruiser Bandi Antenna Mount
3. K1A Antenna Quick Disconnect
A quick note about the Bandi mount: It looks like the latest Bandi mounts have been redesigned to use a pass-through bolt (like the Boztec's), which makes installation much easier. However, many of these bolts rust almost immediately. So if you pick up a Bandi mount, go to Home Depot or Lowes and pick up a replacement bolt in stainless steel, and throw the provided bolt away.
FLEX4 Wilson Flexible Fiberglass Antenna
(Walcott link for Wilson Flex 4 Antenna broken, switched to Amazon link)
Wilson 4-foot flex antenna (the 3-foot has been discontinued, apparently), flexible enough to run without a spring. This is a big flexibility improvement over the standard Firestik that most people get, without being super flexible like a standard whip antenna. Run this antenna with just a quick disconnect and skip installing a spring.
Bulkhead - UHF Female to UHF Female - RF-7625 [RF-7625] - $4.55
Female-to-female bulkhead adapter, I drilled a hole in the center console and mounted this to take the antenna plug from the radio.
UHF Male to UHF Male - RF-7626 [RF-7626] - $3.86
Male-to-male adapter to make the final connection between the radio and the bulkhead adapter.
SO-239 UHF-Male Connector Protective Dust Cover (97510) - TestParts
I also found a small cap to cover the antenna plug when not in use.
The install:
Antenna + Bandi Mount. I used a knife blade to scrape the paint away for a grounding point here, I also popped off the top piece of plastic trim over the hinge for easier wrench access. Don't try to use an adjustable crescent wrench to tighten the Bandi mount screw, I found a fixed-size wrench that matched the screw size and was much thinner:
Antenna wire entry point - I cut a small hole in the rubber hose here and then ran the cable into the jack compartment. Using zip ties on the inside and outside help to secure the cable:
Running the wire from the jack compartment to the rear seat was the hardest part of the install, the picture below should save you some time. I pushed the seats forward, the exit point for your cable is where you see the rear hinge for the seat. Remove the plate behind the seat (two bolts then pull up), then pull the floormat out from under the plastic trim on the side. There's a screw there, unscrew it and it will give you another 1-2 inches of flexibility on that panel, which makes all the difference for pulling the cable through:
Once you have the cable coming out from under the rear seat:
Pull up the kick plates below the door (seriously, just put your fingers under the inside-side of them and pull up, they pop right off) and you will see a pre-existing channel to run the cable. I ran the cable from here to the bottom A-pillar, up past the fuse box and then over into the center console.
To remove the center console, remove your shift levers and just pull up at the back of the center console, it pops right up:
Once I had the center console off I drilled a hole for the UHF bulkhead adapter and screwed it through the center console. This lets you easily attach/unattach your CB when it isn't in use. To mount it I bought a little adhesive mounting clip ( Amazon.com: Samsonite SBCDM American Tourister Universal Swivel Cell Phone Belt Clip w/Dash Mount: Electronics ), and put the nub on the back of the handset with the adhesive tape that came on it. The clip on the dash didn't hold up very well using the adhesive though...so I used silicone adhesive and that worked like a charm.
When the radio is in use:
When it's not in use:
I was originally going to add another 12V plug next to the antenna plug, but it was much easier to buy a wired 2-jack splitter from O'Reilly for like $7:
Amazon.com: Vector VEC006 Hd Y Socket W/Fuse Dual: Automotive
SWR's tested in the 1.5 range out of the box, so I didn't do any tuning at all. I've been testing the range for the last couple of weeks and in smooth terrain without many obstacles I've seen 2+ miles at some points. So in the hills while offroading, the range is ample.