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Jimmy's CB Install

82K views 121 replies 44 participants last post by  Blue Rayne 
#1 ·
*** UPDATED PHOTOS ***

First let me say that Big Bill's install thread was a *huge* help in planning this install, and seeing how to take apart various things on the FJ: http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...l/7685-cobra-75-wxst-bandi-mount-install.html

Equipment total cost - $195 + shipping:

Amazon.com: Midland 75-822 40 Channel 2 Way Radio: Electronics

Midland 75-822 CB Radio, I picked this radio for two main reasons, (a) it's all in the handset and not very heavy, and (b) its versatility to be both a handheld and an in-car unit by swapping the base and adding the small antenna (all included in the original box). The Cobra handset unit on the Big Bill combo page (below) is a fine radio, but I've found the install/removal to not be as clean as with the Midland. If you're going for a full-size CB radio, ignore this advice. The full size units tend to be better quality and more functional than the handset units, but they don't uninstall easily and for trail communications the all-in-the-handset units work great.

Complete Toyota FJ Cruiser CB Radio System "Big Bill Combo" at WalcottCB.com

1. HS818TNKT EZ Install Coax Cable and Antenna Stud (the perfect length, I had about 8 inches of extra cable for where I wired it to the center console, also make sure to get Part # HS818TNKT so it has the removable coupler for easier wire routing)
2. Toyota FJ Cruiser Bandi Antenna Mount
3. K1A Antenna Quick Disconnect

A quick note about the Bandi mount: It looks like the latest Bandi mounts have been redesigned to use a pass-through bolt (like the Boztec's), which makes installation much easier. However, many of these bolts rust almost immediately. So if you pick up a Bandi mount, go to Home Depot or Lowes and pick up a replacement bolt in stainless steel, and throw the provided bolt away.

FLEX4 Wilson Flexible Fiberglass Antenna
(Walcott link for Wilson Flex 4 Antenna broken, switched to Amazon link)

Wilson 4-foot flex antenna (the 3-foot has been discontinued, apparently), flexible enough to run without a spring. This is a big flexibility improvement over the standard Firestik that most people get, without being super flexible like a standard whip antenna. Run this antenna with just a quick disconnect and skip installing a spring.

Bulkhead - UHF Female to UHF Female - RF-7625 [RF-7625] - $4.55

Female-to-female bulkhead adapter, I drilled a hole in the center console and mounted this to take the antenna plug from the radio.

UHF Male to UHF Male - RF-7626 [RF-7626] - $3.86

Male-to-male adapter to make the final connection between the radio and the bulkhead adapter.

SO-239 UHF-Male Connector Protective Dust Cover (97510) - TestParts

I also found a small cap to cover the antenna plug when not in use.

The install:

Antenna + Bandi Mount. I used a knife blade to scrape the paint away for a grounding point here, I also popped off the top piece of plastic trim over the hinge for easier wrench access. Don't try to use an adjustable crescent wrench to tighten the Bandi mount screw, I found a fixed-size wrench that matched the screw size and was much thinner:



Antenna wire entry point - I cut a small hole in the rubber hose here and then ran the cable into the jack compartment. Using zip ties on the inside and outside help to secure the cable:



Running the wire from the jack compartment to the rear seat was the hardest part of the install, the picture below should save you some time. I pushed the seats forward, the exit point for your cable is where you see the rear hinge for the seat. Remove the plate behind the seat (two bolts then pull up), then pull the floormat out from under the plastic trim on the side. There's a screw there, unscrew it and it will give you another 1-2 inches of flexibility on that panel, which makes all the difference for pulling the cable through:



Once you have the cable coming out from under the rear seat:



Pull up the kick plates below the door (seriously, just put your fingers under the inside-side of them and pull up, they pop right off) and you will see a pre-existing channel to run the cable. I ran the cable from here to the bottom A-pillar, up past the fuse box and then over into the center console.



To remove the center console, remove your shift levers and just pull up at the back of the center console, it pops right up:



Once I had the center console off I drilled a hole for the UHF bulkhead adapter and screwed it through the center console. This lets you easily attach/unattach your CB when it isn't in use. To mount it I bought a little adhesive mounting clip ( Amazon.com: Samsonite SBCDM American Tourister Universal Swivel Cell Phone Belt Clip w/Dash Mount: Electronics ), and put the nub on the back of the handset with the adhesive tape that came on it. The clip on the dash didn't hold up very well using the adhesive though...so I used silicone adhesive and that worked like a charm.

When the radio is in use:



When it's not in use:



I was originally going to add another 12V plug next to the antenna plug, but it was much easier to buy a wired 2-jack splitter from O'Reilly for like $7:

Amazon.com: Vector VEC006 Hd Y Socket W/Fuse Dual: Automotive

SWR's tested in the 1.5 range out of the box, so I didn't do any tuning at all. I've been testing the range for the last couple of weeks and in smooth terrain without many obstacles I've seen 2+ miles at some points. So in the hills while offroading, the range is ample.
 
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#2 ·
Looks good.
 
#3 ·
Nice, I used a dremel on the paint instead of a knife for both the Bandi mount and the hinge. Worked really well. Make sure you don't do too much on the Bandi other than the part that contacts the FJ, or else you'll get rust.

I like the idea of a cap while the antenna is not up. The FJ has a really good spot to put that, right inside the rear door on the hanger holder.

Second I found that after wheeling the upper bolt backed out a bit and I put another locking washer on top of the antenna before it went on the Bandi mount. This has secured the whole install.
 
#4 ·
Rust was my main concern with scraping the paint off, but I can't see any after I bolted it down so I think I'm set there. I've been looking for a place to stash the antenna when not in use besides just on the floor in the back, I was thinking about a couple of clips or maybe a bungie.

And yeah both of my antennas (the CB and the stock stereo one) backed out a bit after a day of smacking trees on the trail, I tightened them back down and they seem to be doing pretty good now.
 
#5 ·
Nice writeup! I'm going to have to find a locking washer for my antenna mount too as it is constantly coming loose after a few hours of wheeling.

You've gotten over 5 miles of range with your setup too. When I called you last Sunday, I was at least that far away. :)
 
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#6 ·
I have a crescent wrench in my tool bag, we're gonna have to make "tighten up antenna bolt" a regular post-trip item on the checklist. I also had a go at the radio antenna and it's now nice and tight too.

Holy crap, you were 5 miles out when I heard you? That's a testament to both our radios, as I was parked halfway into that little canyon next to Bandimere.
 
#7 ·
If i can sell off some of my music gear in time for the Summit this year I'll need to get a CB going. I appreciate the post. I may holler at you and see if you are around when I get to the install part. It'll be the first time running wires through the interior of a vehicle. The back looks easy. Not sure about the console. I may have bribe offers in hand. :)
 
#8 ·
The hardest part of the install for me was going from the jack compartment to under the rear seat, that took a good 30 minutes until I removed the rear floormat and unscrewed that screw. After that, 30 seconds and bam. The only place where my wire is visible is under the rear passenger seat, it goes back into the side molding about halfway under the seat and then passes under the kick plate to the A-pillar. Running it to the center console from there wasn't hard, if you reach around under the dash you can find a good hole to run the cable into the center console.

I'm always happy to demonstrate my install or help with yours, I don't drink beer so buy me a burrito and we'll call it even :).
 
#13 ·
saw this in person, fantastic set up, will duplicate in a couple of weeks when all the parts get here! Thanks James!
 
#15 ·
I remember your radio when we were staging at Buena Vista for the run to Ouray, that's not a bad setup. You definitely sacrifice some functionality by getting an all-in-the-handset unit, and if I used my radio all the time or spent more time on the road I'd probably prefer a more traditional/functional one.
 
#16 ·
Thanks for posting this up. I have a little bit different setup but your parts list helped me out big time1 Just waiting for the rest of the stuff to get here so I can install it.
 
#17 ·
Thanks Jimmy. I have an old Radioshack handheld(everything in the handset) that worked o.k. for Cruise Moab when attached to an external Wilson magnet mount on the center front portion of the roof. I bought the antenna at Royce Electronics(Radio Shack) in Moab and they tuned it for free. Handheld is run off the 12v(cig. lighter) plug or AA batteries. When I upgrade, your Midland unit appears to be the way to go and still keep the portability.
 
#18 ·
I have an old Radioshack handheld(everything in the handset) that worked o.k. for Cruise Moab when attached to an external Wilson magnet mount on the center front portion of the roof.
I've seen that antenna on other FJ's during group runs, I imagine it gives a little better range overall (with the antenna being higher) and I can definitely say that the install is faster haha.

The midland is a great radio, I really can't recommend it enough. Its not as feature-rich as the full size units but its very flexible if you need to move it between cars, run it as a handheld etc.
 
#19 ·
Got mine yesterday James! Thanks again!


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 
#20 ·
Got mine yesterday James! Thanks again!
Sweet! Set the squelch then hit the SC button, and it will do a channel scan. That way you can find somebody close to check your signal.
 
#22 ·
Finally :) glad to hear it buddy, I know you don't need the help (professional mechanic here folks) but if you'd like help pick a weekend day and let me know, I'll swing down to the Springs.
 
#24 ·
I was thinking of running the cable under the truck to up near the drivers floorboard and installing everything on the empty panel to the left of the steering wheel.

Do you think the kit comes with enough cable to make this happen?
I think there's enough, if that's how you want to do it.

A couple of counter-points to this idea though:

  1. With your CB on the left side of the steering wheel, your passenger can't ever reach/use the radio. If you never plan on having a passenger, or like to drive with your right hand instead of your left (I drive with my left, keeping my right open for changing gears when needed) then this may not be an issue.
  2. It's probably easier/cleaner to run the wiring the way that I did it for your desired mounting location, since it passes right through that panel on the left side as it goes under the steering column to the center console. So running the wiring inside the truck via the rear door wiring bundle gets you into the truck without having to find an alternate spot somewhere under up front.

I'm sorry I didn't take more photos of running the wiring during the install, they would probably show #2 better. The door sill works so great for running the wiring, since there is already a channel there for it...
 
#27 ·
Must be a preseason type of thing ;)
Not the same day but close. This thread is very helpful for what I am attempting tomorrow. :bigthumb:
 
#33 ·
Just pulled the trigger on all the parts used in your setup. Thanks for posting the write-up. Very helpful.
Awesome, let us know how the install goes!
 
#34 ·
I completed the cable run portion of the install over the weekend. Things went smooth as glass thanks to this write-up and the original by Big Bill. :D Thanks for sharing your project and shortcut with the rear cargo floor.
 
#35 ·
next on the mod list... having drilled a 4" hole in my fender I feel quite ambitious now! hahaha!
 
#37 ·
What's the cable length? Anything shorter than the Big Bill cable in the first post is going to be too short. Otherwise, for fishing the cable through the truck the main place where you're going to have a problem is going from the bandi (hinge) mount on the rear door into the inside of the truck. After that, you can make that cable work for the rest of the truck, but you might have a few tight spots.
 
#38 ·
Thanks for the write up, I got the cable portion all done just awaiting my CB. Your trick with the 2 screws under the mat really loosened things up. I got the 18' cable and it wasn't long enough to go down the driver side and up under the dash and to the back of the center console, so I fished it up the rubber floor mat down the center of the truck to the center console. I nice discrete cable run, and only 1 cut finger. LOL.:clap::clap:
 
#41 ·
Correct, I read the cable that comes in the big bill has a connector that won't work with the Bandi. I ordered this one and didn't think about the removable connector till it was already at my house. I might have to find another way into the interior without drilling in the door I guess.
 
#43 ·
Sorry for bringing up a semi-old post but I was wondering what you guys are using to help mount your coax cable in place (HS818TNKT)? Jimmy mentioned using both UHF Female-Female and Male-Male connectors but I'm not sure how they would hook up properly.

I was looking into this:
PL259 UHF Male Plug to SO239 UHF Female Jack Pin Flange Mount

And wondered if anyone else has used something similar? The idea would be to run the coax cable (HS818TNKT) then connect the male end to the mount which is screwed into place. Hopefully stopping the coax from moving around.

Also, for those of you who have ran this cable, is 18' long enough to run through the rear compartment, along the driver side kickplate, under the dash, through the centre console to the small square indent near the cup holders? I get the impression from early measuring it will be very close.

Thanks

Mike
 
#44 ·
Sorry for bringing up a semi-old post but I was wondering what you guys are using to help mount your coax cable in place (HS818TNKT)? Jimmy mentioned using both UHF Female-Female and Male-Male connectors but I'm not sure how they would hook up properly.

I was looking into this:
PL259 UHF Male Plug to SO239 UHF Female Jack Pin Flange Mount
The cable you run from the back of the truck is going to have a male connector on it, and your radio (if you get the Midland) will also have a male connector on it. That's why you need a female-to-female connector for this part. Check the original post for "bulkhead adapter", I drilled a hole in my center console and mounted the bulkhead adapter through the plastic. It has two washer nuts that tighten up and hold it in place. When I'm not using the radio I disconnect it and put a dust cover on the exposed female connector. A flange mount would probably look a little cleaner but it will need to be female on both sides.

Edit: here's a pic of where I drilled through for the bulkhead adapter.

Also, for those of you who have ran this cable, is 18' long enough to run through the rear compartment, along the driver side kickplate, under the dash, through the centre console to the small square indent near the cup holders? I get the impression from early measuring it will be very close.
If you run the 18 foot cable right you'll end up with about 8 inches of free cable in the center console. The route you're talking about is exactly how I ran mine in the original post. Check the part # / link from the original thread, that specific cable has a removable end which makes it a bit easier to push through some of the tighter spots during the install.

You might check the local sub-forum to see if anybody has done a CB install before, my first time was 2-2.5 hours or so but the ones I've done since (on other people's trucks) only took about an hour. It goes a lot quicker/smoother if you're working with someone who has done it before.

Good luck!
 
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