How to add another 12V Power Outlet

[Scott9000]

Agreed, I am trying to get the part number from my Toyota parts guy. I like the flip down door on the front one.

My ARB fridge (which is probably the best purchase I made in the last 3 years) will run on AC or DC. In the truck I prefer DC but was going to try AC with the power outlet that comes in the FJC. That was until I found out the outlet doesn't work when the truck is off. Was hoping since it has a switch it would.

[ruebarb]

TonysFJ previously said:

I wonder what another Toyota outlet would cost? Just the outlet part itself, then install it in the same as this application.

The Toyota outlet sits into a plastic cradel that locks into the switch plate panel. I'm not sure if you can lock it into place if you were to add it somewhere else. You can see it here.

[TonysFJ]

ruebarb previously said:

The Toyota outlet sits into a plastic cradel that locks into the switch plate panel. I'm not sure if you can lock it into place if you were to add it somewhere else. You can see it here.

Could always use a 5 minute epoxy or something. Wont matter since its inside. I like the flip up cap too. Let me know if you get the #

[SwissArmySuv]

FYI - Used the search and found some info on power outlets!

Wanted to add one myself and found very useful information here.
However, did not like (2) details:
1) tapping into the existing outlet gives you (2) outlets that don't work
when the key is off!
2) I did not want to sacrifice the little cubby hole for an outlet
with a plug sticking in it

Chose the console area for the new outlet and ran the wire to the fuse block.
Had to add about 10-12" onto the Radio Shack outlet to get there.

Included dimensions of outlet location in the pictures. Made sure I missed
molded ribs on the back side and missed the shifter. Left extra wire
under the console to make sure it did not catch the shifter. Used a meter
to find live tap points when key was off. Also used a 1 1/8" bit because
the recommended 1 3/32" is an odd size and I had a 1 1/8"! You will
need to file a small keyway for the anti-rotation rib on the outlet.

Drill your hole 3 5/8" from the front edge and .97" up from the bottom.
Note: The .97" dimension is important for (2) reasons:
Drill too high and you're into the radius on the console, drill too low
and you're into the overhang of the lower console piece.




Note: The top side of the first (3) open fuse ports on the bottom row are
hot when the key is off. I marked them with a red sharpie.


Aren't "sticky pads" cool!


Last piece of info:
I disconnected the battery for the project. By doing so you will need
to re-calibrate your compass when you are finished. I find that to calibrate
the compass, you need to drive in a "generous" circle, not a tight circle!

[tnegiet]

Nice work...

[SwissArmySuv]

thanks ...

[tnegiet]

Where'd you get the sticky pad..that's just too cool.

[SwissArmySuv]

wife bought me the standard issue "sticky" .... cut it down to fit the spot!

[ruebarb]

Very nice, so did you due a fuse tap or wire it in to the pannel?

[bigbill25]

Both installs are great. Thanks for the (better than mine) write up!

--Bill