The immobilizer is up and running, so I am able to start the '08 without a key in the ignition. Programming the bypass unit was a breeze, and having found info to tap the right data wires to tap didn't hurt either.
Only thing remaining is trying to figure out how to get the drivers door to lock, when the vehicle is started. It unlocks prior to starting, to disable the alarm, but I would like it to lock after the vehicle starts. I could care less about having to manual unlock the vehicle, considering the fact that I didn't have to go outside to warm/cool the vehicle. It seems like a fair trade to me!
Anyways, the immobilizer bypass works flawless! No key, simple to program.
Hey Man,
I started this project this weekend too. I'm still a couple of steps behind you. I'm putting in a compustar 2-way alarm/remote start and then a fortin bypass key-override-all module. Working off of 9 pages of hackers notes and detail sheets. GOING NUTS. I've got almost the same notes as you about the IMI and IMO. Here is what I've got and I don't claim its correct.
"The ECM in the 2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser s located behind the glove box and mounted vertically.
The IMI (White/Red Pin #16) and IMO(Blue/Orange Pin#15) wires can be found in connector E46, which is in the 2nd connector from the bottom, The Vehicles security light wire is (Purple/White) and can be fouund at the light itself."
So do you know - What is this: IMI & IMO? Is this the DATA IN / DATA OUT? My key-override-all module wants a Data in connection and a Data out connection. But then it the same installation guide shows a picture of the engine compartment and a close up of either the starter or somewhere in the transmission area of a 7-pin connector I should tap into.
Hey, anyway
You shouldn't have to go under the hood for anything except to disconnect the battery, and if you are going to opt for a hood pin (which I did not). On that note, for anyone tackling this project, I decided to remove the drivers seat to make more room. 4 bolts and a few connectors is very worth the effort, since you will be under the dash for awhile.
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WARNING: One of the underseat connectors is yellow, and that is for the airbag. Make sure the battery is disconnected, and I am told that it's a good idea to have no power connected for up to 10 minutes, prior to disengaging the air bag switch, or bad things can happen fast!
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Your diagram for the bypass is more accurate than mine. It is pins 15 and 16, and located behind the glovebox. It's the second from the bottom, there will be a total of 5 connectors. Also, the tach wire can be located on pin 1 of the same plug, so you might as well tap that if you haven't. So, you'll need three wires running to the bypass and one for the tach, two to the main unit.
I know the wires are blue/orange, and white red. I don't have any of my papers in front of me, so I forgot which was which. But, all you need to do is cut the Data IMI wire a little ways from the plug and solder your input and output wires. The output wire, to the plug side, and the input on the other side of the cut. You can t-tap the Data IMO, and if you are lucky the vehicle should be de-immobilized now. Provided the other wiring is up and working properly.
I finally put my FJ back together last night, and everything works great with one exception. I need to use the aftermarket fob to start (it also locks and unlocks). On the main unit, I connected the keysense (-) wire from the vehicle to the factory disarm (-) on my remote start. This allows the factory security to be turned off, without unlocking the door first. I don't know about your system, but mine had a seperate plug for door locks. I used the unlock and connected that to the factory power unlock/disarm.
The only reason I mention this, is because it doesn't quite follow in step with TinCans write up. I metered the power lock and power unlock wires used in that setup, and the blue/red & blue/black wires were showing positive voltage when I'd turn the key to lock or unlock. So, perhaps it was just my system, but mine had only negative pulses for these operations. Not wanting to take any chances, I used the blue and the pink wires in the harness running to the door for lock and alarm operation.
The downside is that my factory key cannot be used to remote start. I was looking at a diagram to reverse the polarity, and figured the extra two relays weren't worth the time, at least for now. I just wanted to get the FJ back on the road. I'd be interested to hear from anyone about different systems and whether they include a (+) for door lock/unlock operation. Or, perhaps a jumper to select?
That was a little lengthy, but just trying to give a little back from my experience.
Good luck.
Last edited by grnsgottaM : 01-03-2009 at 10:12 PM.
Reason: Missed a word to a sentence
Try,
Lock (-) Blue/Orange
Unlock (-) Green/Black
Drivers Door Harness White Connector in
Then I got some note about DKP. #209
#209 - See child safety door lock diagram Use grn/blk and white/red in white connector from Drivers door.
I don't know what it means - I don't have kids so I bypassed that note.
Yea, I tapped into those IMI, IMO and tested with the key in and they looked to me like data was running in and out. except I hooked my bypass module and tried 'er out and IT FAILED to program. Piece of Cr@p
Sorry to hear about your bypass failure. I used an XK05 (more info can be found at BypassKit.com - Direct source for Bypass Kit and databus interface solutions: No Key Required.) Not trying to rub it in, but programming that unit couldn't have been simpler. Instructions called for insert key in ignition, and the led should be lit. Start vehicle, and if the light goes off, you are good to go. I didn't even have to start the vehicle, since the light went off in the ignition setting, without even kicking over the starter. I did so anyways, of course.
Hopefully you have luck with your bypass module. If not, and returning is an option, I recommend the XK05.
Last edited by grnsgottaM : 11-30-2008 at 10:02 PM.
Reason: Oversight
Finished. I just wanted to clear up some errors I had written previously. That picture of what I thought was the engine/transmission was a cr@ppy pic of the key barrel. The Tx Data is the Light Green / Red and the Rx Data is the Pink / Green wire at the key barrel.
Glad to hear you got it finished. I've been pretty happy with mine, and did it just in time. Dropped below freezing here in MN, and pretty much stayed there. I had to reprogram the unit to run longer than the default 15 minutes. That just doesn't cut it, in sub-zero weather. The vehicle would shut off not long after the water temp started to register. And, it would be nice to work around the RF transmitter shut-off on the Toyota, when the vehicle is running. I miss being able to use the keyless entry, without having to shut off the vehicle first. But, it'll warm up in the winter and cool down on the warmest days, so I shouldn't complain. In hindsight, the learning curve is a little steep, and I swore I'd never install one again. But, I would do it again I think (just not on the same vehicle).
Yea, that is one intelligent vehicle. I'll never do it again, not without a price. $$$$$$$. So I reread your postings and are you doing some real wizard sh!t and trying to use your toyota key fob buttons to remote start your vehicle.
"The downside is that my factory key cannot be used to remote start. I was looking at a diagram to reverse the polarity,"
What is this?
I looked up your galaxy remote start and saw that there are 2 aux channels - (pulsed, timed, and latched). Couldn't you use an aux channel to lock and unlock you doors after the remote start kicks on.
I'm going to use my aux channels to unlatch that back window and ............. I don't know what else. Roll down the window? But I'm tired working on it for now. A Lazy hot summer day sounds like a good time to do it. Cheers
I am in the same boat as you. Just use it, since it works and worry about the rest later.
You did give me an idea though. If I do just keep the aftermarket key fob or not, I should run a wire back to the rear (to be used later). Come to think of it, maybe I should have done that last week, when I had the headliner dropped for a GPS mount install. Under or overhead, it doesn't matter where you run the wire to the rear latch (just as long as the wire isn't in the way of the side curtain air bags). Because, when I dive into this again, I would like to be able to open the rear window remotely. The only reason I didn't bother during the initial install is that as far as I can tell, the only place to splice that is in the rear. I didn't feel like taking more of the vehicle apart at the time.
If I go at this again, I want remote rear window operation, three lock pulse on the factory key to start, and possibly look into a way to bypass the shutdown of the RF receiver when the vehicle is started. I'll worry about how to do it, when I get there.
The only downside is my milage seems to have mysteriously dropped a good bit, since I put this remote start in. Hmm, anyone else notice this? I'm kidding or course, but do know a guy who was complaining about his milage lately. Turns out it is the fact that his vehicle runs a half hour, before he gets into it to drive. Go figure.
Linear Mode
