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Stock subwoofer doesn't sound as deep/loud after head unit replacement

7K views 16 replies 8 participants last post by  mjpjr45 
#1 ·
Hello all,
I recently upgraded my head unit in my 2010 FJ with a Kenwood double din (DDX672BH). I've noticed that the bass coming from the stock subwoofer is not as deep and/or loud as it was with the stock unit. I wired it exactly according to the Crutchfield Master sheet and manual that came with the new head unit. Any ideas why this could be? Note sure if this makes a difference, but I replaced my 6x9's at the same time that I upgraded the head unit. Everything else seems to be working fine.

Thank you in advance for any suggestions!
 
#2 ·
Not sure if you did any wiring, there's a diagram somewhere that shows impedance at each speaker, it's goofy as in not equal across the various speakers in the FJ. Factory stuff never matches the aftermarket when it comes to audio, just ask ZOSO on here. He knows audio.
 
#3 ·
Does that Kenwood have a sub out? Did you adjust the volume of the subwoofer to max on the headunit ? And cross it over correctly at 80Hz or below on the headunit? Mixing aftermarket with factory does cause problems yes ... Good component chasing bad component
 
#4 ·
Hello all,
I recently upgraded my head unit in my 2010 FJ with a Kenwood double din (DDX672BH). I've noticed that the bass coming from the stock subwoofer is not as deep and/or loud as it was with the stock unit.
You may have wired everything just fine, however you've changed the head unit. The manual for my 2013 page 287 says:

"The audio systems utilize SRS FOCUS(TM) and SRS TruBass® audio
enhancement technologies, under license from SRS Labs, Inc., in all modes
except AM radio mode."

You probably liked the bass enhancement and synthesis that this provides which is now gone. The factory head unit output is also optimized (tuned) for the factory speakers and had the vehicle speed compensation (ASL function) that changes the tonality with vehicle speed. You've now lost all of this.
 
#5 ·
I also made the mistake of replacing my head unit in my 2011 with JBL system. Now I am ripping the entire system out and redoing it with my own amps, sub, and components due to the nasty hissing noise from the toyto1 and terrible sound quality,.
 
#10 ·
I recommend 6.5" components over 6x9's and tweeters. Then it will have a proper crossover and easily set up. I personally am flush mounting tweeters in my doors and 6.5" speakers in customer 1/4 MDF speaker adapters in the doors.
 
#9 · (Edited)
I too replaced my factory HU with a Kenwood (dnx691) and hated the factory sub. I also replaced all the OEM speakers previously with JL Audio components. So I had an old Jerry can laying around, used a JL 8, JL's mini HX amp which is small enough to fit inside the can and mounted it in the factory location-it is a sealed unit with more than ample space. I can also remove it with disconnect plugs for when I need additional cargo space. I hope this gives you another idea. -J
 

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#12 · (Edited)
True sound quality systems need the tweeter as close to the mid as possible and directed towards the ears. Dash board tweets would work IF the windshield was more angled to reflect the highs toward the front seats but it is not. Low frequencies can bounce around which means sub placement can be anywhere but high frequencies need to be directed straight towards the ear as much as possible hence the tweeters in aftermarket speakers being able to rotate/angle.

Most high end vehicles or aftermarket sound Q systems have tweeters and mids in the doors with no dash speakers in order to keep the sound seamless. But thats only my MECP certifications and experience talking.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Well a two way component system is a midbass and tweeter not a mid and tweeter ...IMO a two way component system the tweeter need to be mounted higher in the dash or APillars for better imaging and not all tweeters should point directly at you , take Focal tweeter for instant they do not do well in your face, off axis is better for focal and many brands ... now on a three way component system the mids and tweeters yes need to be within a couple of inches or so from each other then the midbass in the doors... Yeah I've seen the midbass and tweeters mounted together and I don't like the imaging as well as the tweeter higher up in the system , a matter of taste .. Another option is mounting the midbass and tweeters together (or use a two way coaxial) in the doors and adding a second set of tweeters and mounting them higher in the system but you have to be carefull of phasing issues doing that
 
#14 ·
a matter of taste .. [/B]
Never been truer. Its all based on your personal ears but when I was in the career of high end car audio installs, 2 or 3 way components were was always mounted in doors and kick panels, including Focal (back in 2002).

I am mounting my tweeters high up in the door panel between the a-pillar and door handles. For me, that is the best sound and still close to the mid for seamless sound. It also makes it easier to mount the crossover in the door and run short wires to each component. I even went as far as running (discontinued) Monster noise canceling speaker wire through the door jams and into the door directly from the amplifier.
 
#17 ·
I swapped mine a year or so back, with a Kenwood(DDX375BT), and used a Crutchfield wiring adapter. My factory sub works great. I did have to play with the speaker settings, eq, and crossover, in the radio settings to get it right. Took and little trial and error but very happy with the sound now. I also swapped out the front door and front dash speakers.
 
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