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HOW-TO Install Roof Rack Lights, Wiring & Gauge Installation w/ Pics Part 1, 2 & 3

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#1 · (Edited)
HOW-TO Install Roof Rack Lights, Wiring & Gauge Installation w/ Pics Part 1, 2 & 3

I decided to make up a “How-To” install roof rack lights wiring and switch and gauge installation. I have noticed that there are many threads with a little bit of everything, I wanted to have one place for everything.



This will be done in many parts as the work is completed. I will add pictures with a list of required tools and supplies that will also be needed to accomplish the work in a very professional type of wiring installation. I will also go into some detail of the reasons of why I picked certain items than others. This may help you decided on what you want to accomplish.

The first thing you need to do is establish where everything is going to go. Another words, you need to layout in your mind where your switches and the types that you want to use will be in the interior of the vehicle. It is also very important to layout any future items that you may want to add also.

I decided to use the small panel located along the driver’s side under the vent. I have seen other post that there isn’t enough room there. I have found after removing the panel, there is plenty of room for what I want to do.

I have the following lights on the vehicle that will need switches.
  • PIAA Driving Lights (Bumper) – 1 Set
  • IPF Driving Lights (Front Grill) – 1 Set
  • IPF Spot Lights (Front Roof Rack) – 2 Sets
  • Flood Lights (Rear Roof Rack) – 1 Set
  • Future VIAIR Air Compressor w/ Storage Tanks (Sleep/Storage Box) – Switch & Gauge
As you can see I have thought out all the items present and future that will be added to the vehicle. Now with my list, I see I have a lot of switches plus a gauge to add.

I first laid them out like I stated above where I wanted to have the switches located. I bought a couple of the OME switches for the vehicle with harnesses from one of the forum venders about a year ago. I noticed I do have room in the center console to add my switches in there, but decided against it for a couple of reasons. One is, it’s very easy to “bump” and turn on one of the switches in that location. I would not want to be running around in the daytime with my roof lights all on. I wanted something of a safety feature incorporated in the layout and design.

I decided to go with the racing type toggle switches that incorporate a safety cover over the top of the switches. Most of you have seen the type of switch I’m talking about, it has a flip up cover on them. When you turn them on, the cover has to be lifted and when turning them off, just push the cover down which shuts off the lights. These types of switches are also used in the aircraft industry.

I decided to mount four of them along the bottom portion of the panel and then add an Air gauge with switch above them.

Before writing this up I had already mounted the four switches as you can see in the picture.


To remove the panel, just grasp from the bottom portion of it, and pull outwards. This will unseat the tabs that hold the bottom portion of it. DO not pull any harder than is necessary, it will only pull out about an inch then grasp the top portion around the vent. Pull outwards straight out. The whole panel will pop right out.



As you can see, there is plenty of room to mount switches behind this panel.




Next after removing the panel, I took it back to my work shop. I first placed masking tape over the area I will be working on so as not to damage any part of the front panel. This also gives me a place to mark my locations for drilling.



I noticed that where I want to mount my switch for my Air Compressor there is a tab located in the way. After examining the rear of the panel carefully, I decided I can get by without this one tab that holds the panel on to the dash. I first drilled a hole of where the switch will go.



Then turning the panel over I used a dremmel tool to remove the rest of the tab on back, this allowed for a flat surface to mount my switch.



I next drilled out the gauge hole and used a dremmel tool to sand away a little more material away so the gauge would fit perfectly.



I than test fitted the gauge and mounted the Air Gauge switch on to the panel.



Sorry for the blurry pics in some of these, I didn’t realize they were this bad when I took them. But I think you can get the idea.

I next had to shorten the gauge holding bracket on the rear of the gauge. It is way to long for this application. I’m already a little tight on space back there. I used a marker to mark the location where I wanted to remove excess material from the bracket, I then cut it off with the dremmel tool again at an angle since I’m using an angle gauge mount on the front.



Now it’s time to test fit in the dash to make sure anymore of the inside plastic needs to be removed. I also went ahead and wired back up two of the lights I had already had hooked up to the switches. These were my PIAA’s and the two IPF’s on the front bumper.



I installed the panel back in the dash and everything fit perfect, here is a couple of pics of the finished product.





Part two of this install will be installing all the roof lights and wiring along with my Lowerance BAJA 540C GPS antenna which by the way I have to make a mount for on the rack. I will also go into detail listing all the tools and elec connections that you will need for the install. :)

*******PART 2*****
CLICK
 
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#6 ·
Re: HOW-TO Install Roof Rack Lights, Wiring & Gauge Installation w/ Pics

I wanna be first to say:

You're the man! Great job!!!!

:clap::clap::clap:
Thanks :)

nice layout of the switches and gauge!!!:clap::clap:
Thank you sir. :)

Very nicely done, looks great. Detailed narative too.

So you survived the tornados I take it?:eek:
Thanks Buddy :cheers:

Yeh, so far have survived. :cowsmile:

wow. That is all I can say.
Thanks :)

And alot more to come. :cheers:
 
#7 ·
Re: HOW-TO Install Roof Rack Lights, Wiring & Gauge Installation w/ Pics

Love the switchboard/gauge setup... :bigthumb:...

 
#11 ·
Re: HOW-TO Install Roof Rack Lights, Wiring & Gauge Installation w/ Pics

Love the switchboard/gauge setup... :bigthumb:...

Thanks Leroy :cheers:

cant wait for the second part of the write up. im about to do my roof lights but i think im going to hold off to see how you do it :)
It won't belong now. :)
Very impressive, raptor-nator! :cheers:
Thanks :cheers:

very clean awesome install!!!!! Thanks for the great write up
Thank you sir, still more to come. :)
 
#13 ·
Re: HOW-TO Install Roof Rack Lights, Wiring & Gauge Installation w/ Pics

Lookin' good, Mike!! :cheers: :cheers:


BTW, what's the super secret little red button to the right of the mirror control switch?? Stealth mode activation? Passenger seat eject? Coffee bean grinder? :confused:
Thanks buddy :cheers:

I have a 20mm chain gun that retracts from the rear of the roof area with gyroscopic sensors with heat seeking IR CCTV with remote joystick control from the drivers seat. :up_to_something:

It's my alarm system. :D
 
#18 ·
#16 ·
Re: HOW-TO Install Roof Rack Lights, Wiring & Gauge Installation w/ Pics

Now thats professional. Great work and write-up. Can't wait for part two.:rocker:
 
#20 ·
Re: HOW-TO Install Roof Rack Lights, Wiring & Gauge Installation w/ Pics

Very Nice Mike....Since we are on the subject here are the pictures of mine.

Drilled a hole in the roof and added a weather tite fitting form the local Lowes. I will be adding more lights to the rear and sides and your post gives me the idea of where the rest of the switches are going since I have used all the factory slots.

Thanks for the Idea....









 
#21 ·
Re: HOW-TO Install Roof Rack Lights, Wiring & Gauge Installation w/ Pics

Part 2 - Installation of the Roof Light Wiring

The following pic is the tools and equipment that you will need when doing the lighting for this MOD.

  • Wiring loom
  • Electrical Tape
  • Multimeter
  • Circuit Tester
  • Assorted Wiring Connections
  • Carflex Electrical Fitting
  • Carflex Electrical Fitting “Water Resistant”
  • Myers Hub “Water Tight” Electrical Connector
  • Greenlee ½” Knockout Cutter ($23.00) Or a Uni-Bit
  • Rubber Grommets
  • Liquid Electrical Tape
  • Assorted size Heat Shrink Wire Wrap
  • Wire Snips
  • Electrical Pliers
  • Wiring harness from Light manufacturer
  • Permanente Marker
  • Assorted Hole Saws
  • Needle Nose Pliers
  • Assorted Tie Wraps
  • Tape Measure (Not Shown)
I want to talk about a couple of the above items, number 6, 7, 8 & 9. There are two different types of electrical fittings that you can buy. The first is what is called a “Carflex Fitting. These are “Water Resistant” not Water PROOF. They are made out of a polymer that will expand and contract. I myself didn’t know any better and bout the two that you see in the picture above. Then I spoke with my father who has been an Electrical Contractor for many years in the Industrial area. He said that most electricians don’t use the “Carflex connectors due to they leak after about 6 months to a year. He stated that most use what is called a Myers Hub, which is a true “Water Tight” connection.

Armed now with some very useful information, I decided not to use the connections I had bought. My dad sent me a Myers Hub he had along with a pretty cool little tool to make the whole in the roof with. If you do plan on using the Carflex connection or have already, just make sure to periodically check that you still have a good seal once or twice a year.

The number 9 in the list is called a “Knockout Cutter” and is used to make a nice clean hole in the material that you want to make a hole in. My father said you have to be careful when using a step drill bit or a hole saw, it has a tendency to “Grab” the metal and want to twist the drill out of your hands or damage the area around where you are making the hole. This is why he said the Knockout Cutter is used to avoid that type of situation. It makes a nice clean hole.



I’m going to start off with the rear flood lights in my case. I have a GOBI Ranger rack which came pre-wired for the rear lights. As you can see in the pic the end of the wiring is tied up in a little plastic bag, which also has (2) wire connectors too.



I first slipped on a couple of heat shrink tubing over the wires.



I then used two wire connectors to tie the wires together. As you can see, I kept black with black and white with Red. Black will be my ground wire. White on the other end will be my Hot.


I then slipped the heat shrink tubing over the connections and used a lighter to shrink the tube over the connections to make a watertight fit.


Then using a wire loom to incase the wires to make a clean professional appearance.


I then taped around the wire loom to keep any unwanted moisture out.


I then using Wire Tie wraps attached the wiring harness to the sides of the rack.


I then repeated the same process for the light on the other side in the rear of the rack. Here is a pick of the finished wiring installation.


I’m now done with the two floodlights in the rear. I will now move to the front of the rack to begin wiring the (4) main spots and the rear floods into one harness.

Now before I can begin running the rest of the wiring, I need to make a new GPS antenna mount for the rack. I used some sheet metal I had laying around in my shop and made a small mount for the antenna, I then painted it black to match the rest of the rack.


I next had to figure out where I wanted all the wires to come through the roof at. I know some make the hole closer to one side or another, this helps keeping the wiring closer to the A-Pillar. I myself decided to come through in the middle as close as I could get to the GPS antennae location, here is why. I have the Lowerance BAJA 540c GPS, the antenna has a small cable that comes off the antenna, which has a small fitting at the end. It doesn’t have much room to play with, I will have to cut the plug connection off and then splice it inside the roofline. I used some masking tape and placed in the general area where I wanted the hole to go through at. I then placed the Myers Hub in the location and made sure my antenna mount wound not interfere, once installed.


I then drilled a hole for the cutter.


I then inserted the “Knockout Cutter“ in the hole.


I then went to the inside of the vehicle and removed the visors, GPS mount (you will need to remover your rear view mirror) along with the grab handles, then pull from the top of the a-pillar I removed the covers and the head liner was able to come down enough for me to work under the roof line.




I then installed the “Cutter” end of the knockout cutter under the roof.


Using a wrench I began to tighten the cutter down applying pressure.


Once the cutter went through, I was left with a nice clean hole in the roof to fit my “Myers Hub” watertight connection in.


I then used touchup paint to protect the edges of the exposed metal around the hole.


I next inserted the Myers Hub inside the hole and the other end on the inside using a wrench to tighten it down nice and tight for a good Water Tight Seal.

I next used some Teflon tape for my 90 degree fitting for the hub penetration.


I decided to use some very large Heat Shrink Tubing I found at Home Depot, it’s used to make underground splices of cable. It fit perfect over my 90 along the threaded part. Once I have my wiring harness all made up and then inserted into the connection, I’ll use some heat to make a nice solid watertight seal.
 
#22 · (Edited)
Re: HOW-TO Install Roof Rack Lights, Wiring & Gauge Installation w/ Pics

Continued:

It was time to make up the rest of the wiring harness. I started by finishing up the other end of the floodlights that are in the rear. Again, GOBI has already ran the wiring out in the front of the rack to make my connections that more cleaner in appearance. Again just like in the rear, I placed some heat shrink tubing then made up my spices using a standard wiring connections.


I then shrink wrapped the wiring and incased it in some “LARGE Wire loom, the reason for this is I will be adding a lot more wires into the same loom along the way.




I next installed the manufacturers wiring harness onto the lights.


I then cut off the wiring harness a few inches from the plug for the relay.


I then stripped off the plastic sleeve protector from the harness.


I then started wrapping the exposed wiring harness starting from the outside one into the finished rear floods in the Large wire loom. This incased all the wires into the same area and loom. Then, using electrical tape I taped the loom up as I went.


Once I finished all the lights, I had (2) looms that came together in the middle of the roof where my roof penetration is located. I also spliced together both the rear flood light wires into one hot and one ground.


I then taped the whole harness up to make it easier to come through the small fitting into the roofline along with helping to protect the wires. I then pulled the harness into the interior.


I next had to fit my GPS antenna and due some test fitting due to the short antenna cable.


I then installed the antenna bracket along with using heat to shrink up the tubing around the wiring harness, then incased it electrical tape. I then used tie wraps to keep all the neat on top.


All the outside wiring is now complete and water tight. The next part will include all the inside wiring up to the switches, stay tuned. :)

 
#28 · (Edited)
Re: HOW-TO Install Roof Rack Lights, Wiring & Gauge Installation w/ Pics

Great write-up. That rack really topped your rig off :bigthumb:
Thanks :)

The switch/guage panel is oh so Space Shuttle.:pinklove:

I don't have the cojones to put a hole in the roof but this is a sweet thread. I like that you spend the time to really put together some good info that people can use no matter what their skill level and knowledge base. Nice Work.
I try to always help members out with way to do it yourself and save a few buc's here or there. I know alot of members would want to do it, but don't exactly know where to begin at. I think this thread will help them out in this way and give others ideas on how to do things maybe a little different. :)

Back to the first post about the dash cluster...so you ran an airline through your firewall to the dash? Any more details on how that was performed. Can you post up where you got the dash air gauge, part #, etc...

I've got an ExtremeAire under the hood, but my gauge is mounted on one of my reservoir tanks on the roof. I just finished installing a dash switch for it last month and that's a great convenience, not having to pop the hood to flip the breaker/switch.

Thanks mucho! Looks great!
Your Welcome :) I'll be getting into more detail on that soon. Part 3 will touch on your questions about the Air guage. :cheers:

Those Myers hub connectors are great because of the O-Ring seal. Nice write up.
Thanks :)

Great write up Shadow, great pics for the DIYer.

A couple things others might consider.

In my opinion it is simpler to get rid of the wiring harnesses that come with the lights and start with fresh wire, connectors and relays. This gives you complete runs from lights to relays, switches, power and ground. You did a great job with the crimps and shrink covering, however there is still a chance of those connections getting tugged loose especially if you need to remove or more likely add a few more wires. If you have soldering gun consider soldering the connections versus crimping.

For anyone who plans to add roof mounted side and or backup lights in the future? Just leave a couple extra blank wires in the loom, this with save you the nightmare of adding new wire(s) in the future.

My step down drill bit worked perfect. The sheet metal on the roof is hardly a gauge or two thicker than a coke can. :lol: You could use a hole saw too. Look at all the snorkel installs done with a hole saw. No problem.

Anyway great write. Lots of folks will benefit from the extra time and effort you spent! :cheers:
Thanks, I hope it helps others that want to do the same thing. I agree on the mfg wiring harness, thats why I went and cut alot of it off. I'll be getting into the finshed wiring to switches in the next part 3 :cheers:
 
#24 ·
Re: HOW-TO Install Roof Rack Lights, Wiring & Gauge Installation w/ Pics

The switch/guage panel is oh so Space Shuttle.:pinklove:

I don't have the cojones to put a hole in the roof but this is a sweet thread. I like that you spend the time to really put together some good info that people can use no matter what their skill level and knowledge base. Nice Work.
 
#25 ·
Re: HOW-TO Install Roof Rack Lights, Wiring & Gauge Installation w/ Pics

Back to the first post about the dash cluster...so you ran an airline through your firewall to the dash? Any more details on how that was performed. Can you post up where you got the dash air gauge, part #, etc...

I've got an ExtremeAire under the hood, but my gauge is mounted on one of my reservoir tanks on the roof. I just finished installing a dash switch for it last month and that's a great convenience, not having to pop the hood to flip the breaker/switch.

Thanks mucho! Looks great!
 
#26 ·
Re: HOW-TO Install Roof Rack Lights, Wiring & Gauge Installation w/ Pics

Those Myers hub connectors are great because of the O-Ring seal. Nice write up.
 
#27 · (Edited)
Re: HOW-TO Install Roof Rack Lights, Wiring & Gauge Installation w/ Pics

Great write up Shadow, great pics for the DIYer.

A couple things others might consider.

In my opinion it is simpler to get rid of the wiring harnesses that come with the lights and start with fresh wire, connectors and relays. This gives you complete runs from lights to relays, switches, power and ground. You did a great job with the crimps and shrink covering, however there is still a chance of those connections getting tugged loose especially if you need to remove or more likely add a few more wires. If you have a soldering gun consider soldering the connections versus crimping.

For anyone who plans to add roof mounted side and or backup lights in the future? Just leave a couple extra blank wires in the loom, this with save you the nightmare of adding new wire(s) in the future.

My step down drill bit worked perfect. The sheet metal on the roof is hardly a gauge or two thicker than a coke can. :lol: You could use a hole saw too. Look at all the snorkel installs done with a hole saw. No problem.

Anyway great write up. Lots of folks will benefit from the extra time and effort you spent! :cheers:
 
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#29 ·
Re: HOW-TO Install Roof Rack Lights, Wiring & Gauge Installation w/ Pics Part 1 & 2

Great write up but im still nervouse of installing this myself. Im not the best at wiring but the main concern is making a water tight seal with the roof. Im still debating to do it myself or pay someone else. How much do you think it would cost to install 4 IPFs to my ARB rack?
 
#33 ·
Re: HOW-TO Install Roof Rack Lights, Wiring & Gauge Installation w/ Pics Part 1 & 2

Great write up but im still nervouse of installing this myself. Im not the best at wiring but the main concern is making a water tight seal with the roof. Im still debating to do it myself or pay someone else. How much do you think it would cost to install 4 IPFs to my ARB rack?
I don't know how much someone would charge you, but make SURE they use a Myers Hub for going through the roof, it's the ONLY water tight connection. Good luck :)

Mike---

When did you say you were coming down here to help me do this install?? haha!

Great Job as always!:bigthumb:

Terry

:cheers:
:lol: Thanks Terry :cheers:

wow~ I learned so much here today~ thanks for the great instructions!!

I noticed big crack on your windshield.. hope it's not something you can't handle.!
Yeh, I got hit with a large rock from a damn Dump Truck on the highway, I was over 100 yards behind him and WHAM! then it grew as I watched it...

mike,

geat work as usual...alot of info i didn't have before...thanks for the tips.
can't wait to see the rest of this install..i like the switches and where u placed them.....

thanks alot,keep it up..u the man!!!!!!:cheers:

dave:bigthumb:
Thanks Dave, just trying to Help by passing on info to all you guys, :cheers:
 
#30 ·
Re: HOW-TO Install Roof Rack Lights, Wiring & Gauge Installation w/ Pics Part 1 & 2

Mike---

When did you say you were coming down here to help me do this install?? haha!

Great Job as always!:bigthumb:

Terry

:cheers:
 
#32 ·
Re: HOW-TO Install Roof Rack Lights, Wiring & Gauge Installation w/ Pics Part 1 & 2

mike,

geat work as usual...alot of info i didn't have before...thanks for the tips.
can't wait to see the rest of this install..i like the switches and where u placed them.....

thanks alot,keep it up..u the man!!!!!!:cheers:

dave:bigthumb:
 
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