Chistmas Lights=No Headlight?

GoISU · 11-28-2009, 10:42 PM

It may sound dumb but it is kind of a tradition for me to put Christmas lights on my roof rack this time of year. The past two years I have had no issues running them when in gear and driving. This year, however, they only function at idle, when the converter can push maximum power. As soon as I put it in gear the lights cut off. When i hit the button, while driving they come on, and then trip the breaker after a second or two. The weird thing is that I have run this set up successfully before. Same brand lights, from the same retailer, new each year. The only variable is that I am running an extension cord due to adding rear storage. It is a short one (6ft) but is indoor outdoor and fairly stout. Could this be causeing extra draw? I have run 600 lights before (I know, I know

) plugged directly into the outlet and been able to drive with lights illuminated before. The other pisser is that I noticed my passenger head light was out after I installed the lights for the season. Is it possible that I blew a fuse or relay messing with the christmas lights? Or, is it just a coincidence? WTF? Thanks for reading my long winded post, if I can avoid replacing the lamp I would like to.

**KD7NAC_07FJ** · 11-28-2009, 11:08 PM

The extension cord will absolutly increase the the amperage that is required to run the same amount of lights.

The second issue, if adding an extension cord is tripping your breaker then the string of lights is running pretty close to max wattage.

I would recommend looking at getting some 12v lights. like these 12 Volt Rope Light - Christmas Lights, Etc

Brock · 11-29-2009, 07:36 AM

that means you have too many watts going into lights as the converter only does 100W driving and 400W sitting in Park...or something is tripping the breaker.

That is why I converted all of mine to LED xmas lights....and still have enough power to put my 8foot inflatable Grinch on top of the rig with the big bulb and blower motor in it. LOL

LED lights fixed all my problems....

Dang, my rig looks nothing like that any more.....wow...did not realize i have done so much in such a short time. Hope wife dont notice....LOL

Mikey D. · 11-29-2009, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Brock previously said:

that means you have too many watts going into lights as the converter only does 100W driving and 400W sitting in Park...or something is tripping the breaker.

That is why I converted all of mine to LED xmas lights....and still have enough power to put my 8foot inflatable Grinch on top of the rig with the big bulb and blower motor in it. LOL

Now that's cool!

Mike

**SwiCago** · 11-29-2009, 11:23 AM

x2 on what Brock said, use LED lights...lots less draw. I have about 10'000 LED lights plugged into one outlet at my house and I still have plenty of amps to spare.

Each 70 LED string draw < 5W of power

Mister Ed · 11-29-2009, 09:39 PM

where'd you find your LED lights?

Brock · 11-29-2009, 10:04 PM

got mine at Home Depot...they even had battery ones that last like 12 hours. LOL

GoISU · 11-29-2009, 11:10 PM

Thanks all! It turns out the bulb was just burned out. It dawned on me to try the high beams...DUH. The high beams worked therefore, the filiment was burned. Replaced both bulbs today. I will try the LED lights minus the extension cord. I am not looking forward to moving my rear drawers though, those suckers are heavy. BTW, the Grinch in awesome!

**YoseFJ** · 11-30-2009, 09:00 AM

"Back in the day," we would rewire a 120 volt string of Christmas lights from parallel to series (or was it the other way?), and then they would work fine on 12 volts. I could usually get it done while watching a football game on TV along with a roll of electrical tape (green worked best for us).

**FJKID** · 12-04-2009, 11:30 PM

LED's are king!!! For looks and function- Looks like the holiday photo contest is gonna have some heavy entries!!