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Old 10-22-2006, 09:31 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Question How to add a DRL on/off switch

This week I am going to put a switch in so I can turn my DRL on and off. I have the factory switch, and from reading all the posts I have a good place to start tell me how this sounds

1)At the drl connector (behind the drivers head light) Cut the blue wire The power end goes to the top terminal of the switch (clip to the right)

2)Power out is the second connector that will go back to the non-power side of the DLR.

3) the 3rd connector is my back light? where is a good place to steal swiched power??

4) Bottom termanal goes to ground

Now is there an easy way to do all this (IE) any part of the factory harness, or shoud I just run a new wire?
or am I totally out of wack
thanks
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Old 10-25-2006, 08:33 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Help From The Wiring Experts

*******UPDATE*******
I am 2/3 done getting everything all hooked up. here is what I have done so far, and has worked very well.
1) I have run a 2wire single sheath wire following the factory wiring harness (black zip tied) at the fire wall where the main harness goes through you will see a little small rubber ball (It is made to be cut off) cut it off and run the wire through follow the factory harness and it will come out by the fuse box plenty of room to hook it up to the factory switch)

2)on the other end to make life easy I disconected the connector behind the drivers headlight then pulled out the directional (just twist out) and finialy temporally pulled out the white clip so could actually work on the unit. I stripped the plastic sheath back to the electrical tape and cut the blue wire that is the power wire (I connected truck side blue wire to pos wire in my new run. and connector to neg wire in the new run. (then put everything back together.

3)now the switch! as it sits in the dash (light pic facing left and down) top wire is power in.
2nd wire is power out
this is where I am as of tonight (at this point the switch will work)

I will finish this week the 3rd wire is power to the light in the switch and the bottom is ground for the light. The ground will be easy (connect by the kick panel) I am still not sure where I am going to steal switched power for the light

hope all that helped (it looks like a lot but it is not that bad)
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A-Track upgrade
Old Man Emu 3" lift Front 886 springs N140S Struts Rear 895 springs N71E shock
Total Chaos upper control arms
Toytec SS brake lines
Garmin StreetPilot 2720
Switched DLR
Bud Built Skid plates
All Pro E-Locker skid
Sonoran Steel Fabrication FJ Cruiser Rubicon Express Super Flex joint
33X12.50X17 pro-comp MT on black 17" procomp rims
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Old 10-25-2006, 09:41 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Help From The Wiring Experts

I'm not sure if you still need any help or not as it sounds like you have everything under control. However, in the event you have more questions there is a tech article on YotaTech.com that might help you. Go here to view the article. There is one photo in particular that will probably help you with switch questions. See below.

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Old 10-26-2006, 04:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Help From The Wiring Experts

******LAST UP DATE******SWITCHED DLR******

I finished up tonight. and it works great.

the bottom wire (ground) I ran down behind the kick panel and attached to the main ground (silver 10mm bolt holding cluster of white wires)

The 3rd wire (light in the switch) I stole power from the top left connector in the center console. the wire you want is the 2nd one down from the top (white wire with a green stripe)

there was a thread some where someone said that the light was more orange (to much power) on that same connector the top wire (green with a white stripe) had more voltage and made the light in the switch brighter/more orange

I did the whole set up after work in three days (actual time I would set aside about 2 hours)

NEW MOD. SWITCHED DLR
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Air-Aid intake
A-Track upgrade
Old Man Emu 3" lift Front 886 springs N140S Struts Rear 895 springs N71E shock
Total Chaos upper control arms
Toytec SS brake lines
Garmin StreetPilot 2720
Switched DLR
Bud Built Skid plates
All Pro E-Locker skid
Sonoran Steel Fabrication FJ Cruiser Rubicon Express Super Flex joint
33X12.50X17 pro-comp MT on black 17" procomp rims
No cut A-track Locker Mod.
Fab Fours front bumper w/t warn 9500i winch
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Old 10-26-2006, 05:52 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Re: Help From The Wiring Experts

I blew my backup light fuse. I cannot find it thought. All of the fuses in the box are good. any sugestions?
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Old 10-26-2006, 05:57 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Re: Help From The Wiring Experts

Park on the street and leave a lot of room in front?
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Old 10-26-2006, 06:14 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Re: Help From The Wiring Experts

Quote:
fxstsb previously said: View Post
I blew my backup light fuse. I cannot find it thought. All of the fuses in the box are good. any sugestions?
Go to the main fusebox under the hood on the driver's side. Large black box next to the wheel well.
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Old 10-27-2006, 05:19 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Re: Help From The Wiring Experts

Quote:
BDFJ previously said: View Post
Go to the main fusebox under the hood on the driver's side. Large black box next to the wheel well.
Since all of the fuses in that box are good. Which one is it?
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Old 10-27-2006, 08:12 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Re: How to add a DRL on/off switch

it is not likley, but did you check the bulbs? the odds are slim but you never know
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Black 07 FJ CQ Package
Air-Aid intake
A-Track upgrade
Old Man Emu 3" lift Front 886 springs N140S Struts Rear 895 springs N71E shock
Total Chaos upper control arms
Toytec SS brake lines
Garmin StreetPilot 2720
Switched DLR
Bud Built Skid plates
All Pro E-Locker skid
Sonoran Steel Fabrication FJ Cruiser Rubicon Express Super Flex joint
33X12.50X17 pro-comp MT on black 17" procomp rims
No cut A-track Locker Mod.
Fab Fours front bumper w/t warn 9500i winch
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Old 10-27-2006, 08:27 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Re: How to add a DRL on/off switch

Quote:
Joe Lech III previously said: View Post
it is not likley, but did you check the bulbs? the odds are slim but you never know
There is a fuse panel inside by your left knee. that's where the problem be.
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