I just wanted to write and say thank you for the great job you did documenting your install. I just finished wiring a set of PIAA 520's and your pictures and notes were a huge help. I have never put anything through the firewall before and your suggestion of using the screwdriver, marker, and utility knife did the trick!
I just wanted to write and say thank you for the great job you did documenting your install. I just finished wiring a set of PIAA 520's and your pictures and notes were a huge help. I have never put anything through the firewall before and your suggestion of using the screwdriver, marker, and utility knife did the trick!
You are welcome.
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SwissArmy-
I have Piaa Fogs and Driving Lights and used the harness that came with the kits. There are no fuses in their harneesses. Do you suggest adding a 20 amp to the power from the battery to the relay as you show and a 5amp to the + that powers the switch? If so should the fuse be closer to the battery or the relay?
Thanks,
Marc
SwissArmy-
I have Piaa Fogs and Driving Lights and used the harness that came with the kits. There are no fuses in their harneesses. Do you suggest adding a 20 amp to the power from the battery to the relay as you show and a 5amp to the + that powers the switch? If so should the fuse be closer to the battery or the relay?
Thanks,
Marc
Hi Marc,
I have the main 20 amp in-line fuse under the hood right next to the relay and I have the switch power in-line fuse inside the cabin in the fuse block area near the switch. I like to fuse everything I add on so as to not overload any existing fuses or circuits plus you can add exactly the correct amperage of fuse required for that specific application. Hopefully this helps.
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Great write up...I am about to attempt this procedure ....I am a little confused as to why the wires should be ran through the "bumper tube"..... It looks a bit out of the way for someone who is mounting to the stock bump....? I am not electricly apt
It's not necessary however it is very simple to do and it accomplishes (2) things:
1) Protects the wires
2 Eliminates the need to use tie wraps to secure the wires
Quote:
NUTTYFJ previously said:
Great write up...I am about to attempt this procedure ....I am a little confused as to why the wires should be ran through the "bumper tube"..... It looks a bit out of the way for someone who is mounting to the stock bump....? I am not electricly apt
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21) Route the "switch" harness through the desired switch mounting hole. Note: I also decided to run the "blue" relay main power line into the cab and connect it into a "keyed" power line. Hella recommends that you tap the relay power into the low-beam circuit and that also may be a regulation in some states. Do my method of relay power tap at your own discretion.
Can anyone explain how you connect the blue wire to a "keyed" power line. Does that mean I can turn them on independent of my low beams so that they work with the highs on as well?
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Everyone Always Says "Somebody should do something about that", but they forget they ARE Somebody-
21) Route the "switch" harness through the desired switch mounting hole. Note: I also decided to run the "blue" relay main power line into the cab and connect it into a "keyed" power line. Hella recommends that you tap the relay power into the low-beam circuit and that also may be a regulation in some states. Do my method of relay power tap at your own discretion.
Can anyone explain how you connect the blue wire to a "keyed" power line. Does that mean I can turn them on independent of my low beams so that they work with the highs on as well?
by connecting the blue wire to "keyed" power, that allows the fogs to be turned on at any time the ignition key is on and not just when the low beams are on.
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