Custom "Big 3" Electrical and Stereo Installation Buildup

[ryanvalin]

Well, here we go. The stereo is nearly ready to be installed. Today I began to upgrade the electrical system in the truck with the "Big 3". I decided to use 1/0 AWG welding cable for the electrical system because the shielding is alot stronger than regular power wire. I only have done two of the "Big 3" so far.

1. I upgraded the Positive wire from the Alternator to the battery, and used a 200 Amp inline fuse.

2. I upgraded the ground from the battery to the chassis.

I am still going to do the 3rd stage, which is grounding the engine block to the chassis. I just didn't do it today because I ran out of time.

I am going to run a dual battery setup with either an Optima Yellowtop or a Kinetic Battery.

The system is going to consist of the following:

Pioneer AVH-P6800DVD Head unit with Bluetooth and Backup Camera.
One Memphis MC-2000D Mojo amplifier.
One Memphis MC-3004 amplifier.
Two Memphis Mojo 15" DVC subwoofers.
One Phoenix Gold 5.25" Component set.
One Phoenix Gold 6.5" Component set.
One 20 Farad Stiffening Capacitor.
Possibly a set of 4" coaxials in the dash.

I am going to start the install in a few days on the system, so whoever is interested, keep checking out this post! I'll keep the pictures coming.

[fj2play]

Hmmmm. I think you mean well, but just lack the skill maybe? I'm not insulting you, but that is NOT a job to be proud of. Those that are or were in the business of vehicular wiring or an affiliated occupational\training will agree no doubt.

I wasn't aware that these vehicles needed that kind of upgrade to begin with, but you are allowed to upgrade anything you wish (it is a free country). Please! please! please! get some help from a car audio shop or someone more experienced though, before you catch that cool FJ on fire!!

I'm sorry to be such a nag, but I've seen too many vehicles go up in smoke\fire because of wiring like that. But that was just the vehicles, that doesn't count the amount of people that have been injured too.


my .02


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[ryanvalin]

fj2play, you are kidding, right?

If you are going to pull over 150 amps of current, the standard 8 guage wiring in the system is not sufficient, but i'm sure you would have realized that since you are such a wiring guru. You go ahead and explain what is wrong with my wiring, and try not to be so rude next time.

[Savvyav]

Maybe the flint lighter over the gas soaked paper next to your "wiring"!
I think most are looking for a "clean" job, all about routing. I'd just point out it may be tough to access your fuse block with the 200amp fuse and power taps...

I have "big power" direct to the battery (big 3 don't do much from alt to post, as output is only 120amps, 8 guage works)
I have the ground to body/frame/block done (2 guage)

[fj2play]

ryanvalin previously said:

fj2play, you are kidding, right?

If you are going to pull over 150 amps of current, the standard 8 guage wiring in the system is not sufficient, but i'm sure you would have realized that since you are such a wiring guru. You go ahead and explain what is wrong with my wiring, and try not to be so rude next time.

Rude was not my intention. Saftey and pride in workmanship would be foremost. Yes, I'm a wiring guru, but what you are attempting is very basic.

1st = You did not specify the load needed. If you are planning on 150 amperes, that is a bit high. Please specify what you are doing? 2 automotive amplifiers such as you described do not use/need 150 amperes.

2nd = Dual batteries. This requires a Dual Battery Isolator. But you knew that right? In this case, 4ga automotive wire (not welding cable) is acceptable. Never use welding cable. It is for welding, not vehicles. There are many reasons why. A primary reason would be that thicker insulation you mentioned. It is NOT approved for automotive use, and does NOT contain the fire saftey and fire protection that automotive wire has. I know it's tempting because of price, but it's just not worth it.

3rd = Fuse location and distribution. Your 200 amperes fuse block, is unsafe. The oversized wire is also unsafe. 4ga or 1ga wire is sufficient. At any time that 200 amperes fuse holder can dislodge from the plastic FJ fuse box, and contact the hood causing fire or burns. There are also 2 different fuse holders strung accross the battery. It looks like the standard glass, and the standard blade types. For multiple fuse purposes a distribution fuse center is required. This cleans everything up and adds saftey. It can happen. Those 16ga wires can connect the possitive and negative terminals together, again causing fire or burns.

If you have a list of things you want to add to your FJ (electrical items), I would be willing to help come up with better and safer ways to connect everything for you. I'm not going to do it for you, but I can offer prof assistance.

Be safe!



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[ryanvalin]

Savvyav, very nice ride. 35" MTZ's will soon be going on mine as well, on black Cepek DC-1's. Do you have any pics of your "big 3" wiring?

The Memphis Mojo amplifier is a Class D amplifier and will produce 2400 watts of power at 13.6 volts, drawing over 150 amps of current. The other amplifier is a 4 channel class AB amplifier, rated at 75 watts per channel. I am not entirely sure what the draw is with that amplifier to tell you the truth, but i'm sure it is going to be around the 50 amp area. I will be upgrading the alternator to a 200 amp alternator shortly. The sole purpose of upgrading the wiring is to efficiently supply my amplifiers with sufficient current.

As for the dual battery setup, I know what it requires, and will be installed shortly when the parts come in.

The fuse holder I have used is a completely sealed unit and is very strong, and is not possible to contact metal in any way. I installed it to the top of the fuse panel using an industrial grade velcro which is incredibly strong, and is removeable from the fuse panel so that I can still access it without issues. I considered going with automotive wire, however for that amount of current, 4 guage is not sufficient, and I was unable to find 1 guage. 1/0 awg was the next best thing, and has alot better shielding than the typical stereo 1/0 awg power or grounding wire.

As for the fuse holders that are strung across the battery, that will be changed. That was my local dealers wonderful (quick and easy) setup when they installed the frame charging system.

BTW, thanks, I appreciate your knowledge and opinions, fj2play.

[fj2play]

ryanvalin previously said:

Savvyav, very nice ride. 35" MTZ's will soon be going on mine as well, on black Cepek DC-1's. Do you have any pics of your "big 3" wiring?

The Memphis Mojo amplifier is a Class D amplifier and will produce 2400 watts of power at 13.6 volts, drawing over 150 amps of current. The other amplifier is a 4 channel class AB amplifier, rated at 75 watts per channel. I am not entirely sure what the draw is with that amplifier to tell you the truth, but i'm sure it is going to be around the 50 amp area. I will be upgrading the alternator to a 200 amp alternator shortly. The sole purpose of upgrading the wiring is to efficiently supply my amplifiers with sufficient current.

As for the dual battery setup, I know what it requires, and will be installed shortly when the parts come in.

The fuse holder I have used is a completely sealed unit and is very strong, and is not possible to contact metal in any way. I installed it to the top of the fuse panel using an industrial grade velcro which is incredibly strong, and is removeable from the fuse panel so that I can still access it without issues. I considered going with automotive wire, however for that amount of current, 4 guage is not sufficient, and I was unable to find 1 guage. 1/0 awg was the next best thing, and has alot better shielding than the typical stereo 1/0 awg power or grounding wire.

As for the fuse holders that are strung across the battery, that will be changed. That was my local dealers wonderful (quick and easy) setup when they installed the frame charging system.

BTW, thanks, I appreciate your knowledge and opinions, fj2play.

Good to hear you have a handle on all that. Saftey is my primary goal, so if I seamed concerned is because I've seen what can happen.

To aid in your calculations, you might want to check this place out:
1 - Home

There are many usefull hints, tips, and even the calculation method for current draw on your electrical system with those big audio amplifiers of yours.

Good luck and keep us posted!

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[ryanvalin]

Ok. I finally got around to putting in my Pioneer AVH-P6800DVD player with the bluetooth phone adaptor, and the backup camera. I have just hooked it up to my factory speakers for now because i'm still waiting for my dual battery setup before I go ahead with the rest of the system.

I used a PAC-TR7 bypass module (about $20 on ebay) to bypass the parking brake issue. It works great. I mounted the Bluetooth module in the dash behind the heater controls. There is quite a bit of room back there for the wiring and some small adaptors. I was quite happy for that since there are a pile of wires coming out of the back of the head unit. The backup camera I used is just a universal one (about $50 on ebay), and it works great in the daytime, but is quite dark at night. I'm going to add some backup lights to see if I can brighten up the view.

The bluetooth phone adaptor works awesome. It is wireless, and when connected, the head unit works as my cell phone. It's completely hands free, and is quite clear. If there is an incoming call, the dvd, cd, or radio turns off, switches over to the phone, and rings and plays through the speakers. I mounted the microphone for the hands free on the bracket holding the rearview mirror. You can't even tell it's there, and it picks up the voice very well.

much more to come.....

[ryanvalin]

Here's a pic of the camera mounted to the license plate. I'm not crazy about it, and am going to figure out somewhere else to mount it.

[Wallabee]

cool head unit. how did you wire the bluetooth mic to the rearview? or is it wireless?