BTW (nit) when working on the electrics, it is best to remove the NEG terminal from the bat, instead of the POS. I never could figure out why this was till recently.
If you remove the POS term, there still exists a potential for a tool to cause a short between the frame (NEG) and the POS terminal of the battery (POW!)
If you remove the NEG term, you have a risk of a tool causing a short fromthe NEG term to the frame, but all this would do would be to apply power to the vehicle electrical system briefly (which may not be a good thing, but probably less of a hazard than a 1000 amp short)
A short between POS of the battery and the frame when the negative terminal is still connencted is always enlightening and memorable.
If the neg is disconnected, a tool short from battery POS to the frame is not a short of the BATT, since there is no return path to the negative term of the batt.
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BCMT6, Pkg2, KOs, rack, rails, hitch, Abrams, I-Way, Baja 480C, 150W maplight, aux backuplights, aux battery, gerrycan rack, dead buzzers/DRL
BTW (nit) when working on the electrics, it is best to remove the NEG terminal from the bat, instead of the POS. I never could figure out why this was till recently.
If you remove the POS term, there still exists a potential for a tool to cause a short between the frame (NEG) and the POS terminal of the battery (POW!)
If you remove the NEG term, you have a risk of a tool causing a short fromthe NEG term to the frame, but all this would do would be to apply power to the vehicle electrical system briefly (which may not be a good thing, but probably less of a hazard than a 1000 amp short)
A short between POS of the battery and the frame when the negative terminal is still connencted is always enlightening and memorable.
If the neg is disconnected, a tool short from battery POS to the frame is not a short of the BATT, since there is no return path to the negative term of the batt.
Your right It's been a while since I did an automotive electrical work. Thanks, I'll make the change
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"Good people sleep peacefully at night safe in the knowledge that rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf" (George Orwell)
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Excellent job. Rep points for you. 1 question. Why 125 amps? Sounds like a lot. Will your wire carry that much current?
The type of fuse block I used spec'd out to put an inline 125 amp fuse between the source and the fuse block. I just thought I would pass that info on to anyone that planed on doing the same thing. I haven't done it yet, but i will put in a high amp fuse somewhere in the engine bay. I'll update this post when I do. Thanks for the Rep Points, they are allways welcome
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"Good people sleep peacefully at night safe in the knowledge that rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf" (George Orwell)
"It’s Not An Assault Rifle, It’s a Jihadi Paradise Attainment Facilitator"
Location: AZ boy (temporarily) transplanted to southeast GA.
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Re: CLEAN 12v Fuse Block Accessory Install w/Pics
Great job and super write-up, shadow!!
Question: Do you know how to add an additional auxillary fuse block (like yours) that would be activated by the ignition switch being on (like the radio, A/C, wipers, etc.), and then turn off everything on that block when the ignition is turned off.
Given the choice, I'm not big on tapping into existing circuits (Add-A-Circuit) unless I really have to either. And, there are only so many available "Accessory" circuits/fuses anyway.
A heavy-duty relay from the battery to the aux fuse block triggered by one of the "key on" circuits??
It's been a while since I did an automotive electrical work. Thanks, I'll make the change
Linear Mode
