I noticed that the thread has Five Stars now, I'm glad it's helping others out. I wonder if it should be made a “Sticky” ?. I wonder what the MOD’s think..Humm…
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"Good people sleep peacefully at night safe in the knowledge that rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf" (George Orwell)
"It’s Not An Assault Rifle, It’s a Jihadi Paradise Attainment Facilitator"
Just out of curiosity, Mike, why did you run your ground from the fender rather than just a short jumper to the bolt where you mounted the fuse block? I'm assuming it's grounded to the frame as well.
Any reason not to do that and save a long wire run?
Just out of curiosity, Mike, why did you run your ground from the fender rather than just a short jumper to the bolt where you mounted the fuse block? I'm assuming it's grounded to the frame as well.
Any reason not to do that and save a long wire run?
You can, I just wanted everything that I was running kind of up-front so it's easier to troubleshoot if something happens
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"Good people sleep peacefully at night safe in the knowledge that rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf" (George Orwell)
"It’s Not An Assault Rifle, It’s a Jihadi Paradise Attainment Facilitator"
Just out of curiosity, Mike, why did you run your ground from the fender rather than just a short jumper to the bolt where you mounted the fuse block? I'm assuming it's grounded to the frame as well.
Any reason not to do that and save a long wire run?
Weird, I ended up with the same fuse block but i installed it on an aluminum bracket adjacent to the under hood fuseblock, drivers side. I made the bracket out of angle aluminum and riveted it together, painted it flat lack and used oem bolts to install it.
I noticed that the thread has Five Stars now, I'm glad it's helping others out. I wonder if it should be made a “Sticky” ?. I wonder what the MOD’s think..Humm…
I would want this thread stickied so I can find it faster. Thanks.
Quote:
N8RV previously said:
Just out of curiosity, Mike, why did you run your ground from the fender rather than just a short jumper to the bolt where you mounted the fuse block? I'm assuming it's grounded to the frame as well.
Any reason not to do that and save a long wire run?
It's good practice to run ground wires to the same point to prevent ground loops which could cause interference with other electronic devices such as Ham radio or CB or stereo.
Good write up!! Im not even thinking of doing it, but still read the post. It might have changed my mind, what a salesman if you ever want a job in sales PM me shadow.
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Black Diamond 4x4 AT QC UR C7 V5 Z2, Low-Jack ,On 33" Nitto mud grappler, Fox Shox front, 3" Revtek lift rear, Pro-comp Xtreme Steel rims, PIAA Mirror lights, TRD Cold air intake, N-fab nerf bars, Road Armor Titan bumper with K.C. Rally 800-pencil beams/ PIAA 510 ION Fog lights, Manik tail light guards, Bushwacker fender flares and Black Diamond trim.
Shadow, I have a question for you about your Fuse block. I plan on running a total of 5 pairs of AUX lights on my FJ. I already have a dual-battery setup ready to be installed, and I would like to know if you think I could (or, better yet, should) install one of these additional Fuse blocks, as well.
If he's planning to run 5 pairs of lights, what size wire should one run from the batt to the block? will 10 guage be able to handle that or should one goto perhaps 6 or 4 guage?
Is there a chart to tell you the recommended wire size to load?