How to add another 12V Power Outlet

[loot87]

Has anyone managed to put a 12v in the map box? I'd really like to connect my radar detector in there. The two bolts inside don't help at all in removing the box. I'm not sure what they do.

[W. G. Wheeler]

loot87 previously said:

Has anyone managed to put a 12v in the map box? I'd really like to connect my radar detector in there. The two bolts inside don't help at all in removing the box. I'm not sure what they do.

I've had the same thought and have also had no luck getting the map box out of the dashboard.

[NCFJ]

Thanks for all the helpfull ideas guys. I installed the BigBill Combo today and will tune the antenna tomorrow. While at it I installed a 12V plug on the rear of the center console, worked out great. One thing occured to me on both....
Both items have an in line fuse that would end up under the center console if left in line. I chose to remove the in line fuses and ran the wires direct to the fuse block and used the taps with a fuse on them. This way if anything does blow a fuse I am not going to have to remove the console to replace a fuse. Food for thought.

[loot87]

I added one to my map box today. This post describes how to remove the box:
CB Install in steeringwheel glovebox!!!

I put the 12v socket in the bottom of the box, in the front left corner (front of box = toward rear of truck). This clears all of the ducts and wiring. The wiring was run down to the original 12v power and the main ground bolt behind the switch panel. The wires in the Radio Shack kit were long enough for this.

I also added one in the center console bin like was done earlier in this thread.

I'm a little worried about having 2 taps into the wire beind the original 12v. That looks like pretty high guage wire and I'm concerned about the load. The center console 12v could be running a DVD player and two 7" LCDs. The map box 12v will power a radar detector. The original 12v will power an Ipod. That might be too much load. I may look into adding more wires to the fuse box and giving them their own blades if there are spare sockets.

And then it would also be good to add one to the passenger side of the tunnel for inverter for laptop and maybe another one in the console bin for a cell phone. That's a lot of loading.

[robsatx]

I see a lot of you guys with amps under your seat. Why don't you get the power from your amp wire? Plenty of juice there.

[Kylewithrow]

I think I might add one of these myself, I hate my cell phone charger layin all over the place. Nice pix thanks

[ChrisInSeattle]

robsatx previously said:

I see a lot of you guys with amps under your seat. Why don't you get the power from your amp wire? Plenty of juice there.

I have a distribution block mounted under the center console plastic, a bit behind the big bucket in the back. It's been handy for tapping into the 4 guage lead attached directly to the battery. One out to each side for amps, one for two fused accessory jacks (mounted inside the bucket, where I can put stuff being charged). Way cleaner than splicing and dicing.

[S2bear]

After much searching for a stock looking socket, I found these (hope the pic comes out) They're claimed to be WATER RESISTANT.

The company that makes them is a Swedish co: http://www.sutars.se/1218.htm
They list the S. Sterling, GA as their US distributor: http://www.ssterlingco.com/

The cap hinges almost like stock when open as the 'hinge' is wide so it doesn't flop around like some others. The cap's made of rubber and the socket/collar is soft feeling plastic.
I'll post pics when installed in the driver's glovebox.
Hope you guys can get hold of them in the US.
Thanks all, this is a great post. let me know if I should post this separately.
Stu

[CincyTRD-FJ]

Not sure if it has been mentioned in here before (didn't feel like reading 18 pages to find out), but the OEM 12v outlet works in this mod.

I installed it last night and it fits fine and is more secure than the Radioshack one mentioned in the original DIY. Biggest difference is I think the Radioshack one can be pulled out if a plug is in there tight...the OEM one is locked into place. I took some pix but I am at work now so I will upload tomorrow. I love the factory look......

[CincyTRD-FJ]

OK..since I just realized I never took pictures of the back of the install, I will quote this post from last year. It is a picture of the stock outlet:

ruebarb previously said:

The Toyota outlet sits into a plastic cradel that locks into the switch plate panel. I'm not sure if you can lock it into place if you were to add it somewhere else. You can see it here.

As ruebarb explained, the outlet itself sits inside a plastic sleeve. This sleeve is one piece with the flip down cover. You can see the sleeve in the picture above...the plastic around the outlet is NOT part of the switch panel.

The way it works is you make your 1 1/8" hole, then slide the sleeve into place. It will press in just like the radioshack one. Next, you slide in the metal outlet into the plastic sleeve..as the outlet slides into place, tabs in the plastic sleeve are forced outwards (just behind the mounting surface) locking the sleeve into place. The outlet will click into place into the sleeve as well. It is now securely mounted, just like the factory one.

To hook it up, there are two tabs...one in the center and one on the side. Follow the original instructions in this thread and just hook up the red wire to the SIDE and the black wire to the CENTER. No need for any special harnesses or plugs. Simple install. The reason this is important: if you have the radioshack one and prefer the OEM one, all you need to do is pull out the radioshack one including wires (hopefully you left some slack), slide in the plastic sleeve, connect the oem plug and slide it back into place. 2 minutes tops.....

Here are the part numbers you'll need:

Power Socket: 85530-33020 MSRP: $18.43
Cover/Sleeve: 85535-60100-B1 MSRP: $6.89

This dealer site is selling them at $16.59 and $6.50
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=214592

EDIT: Took a picture of the finished product at lunch (sorry, no DIY photos but install is very easy/straight forward)