nice job- looks factory, But can you run you refrigerator on it with the engine off?

 

nice job

 

Very nice job. I am going to wire a similar one into the back for my ARB fridge. I was thinking of drilling the hole in the jack compartment door and running a wire all the way to the battery with a fuse. I usually just purchase an amp cable from walmart (20ft or so). I think I will use the same outlet you used - I like the look better then the Walmart ones I always use.

 

nice job- looks factory, But can you run you refrigerator on it with the engine off?

Actually I was going to inflate my air mattress so I can sleep in it

 

Very nice job. I am going to wire a similar one into the back for my ARB fridge. I was thinking of drilling the hole in the jack compartment door and running a wire all the way to the battery with a fuse. I usually just purchase an amp cable from walmart (20ft or so). I think I will use the same outlet you used - I like the look better then the Walmart ones I always use.

I also thought about wiring one to the back of the FJ. Just don't have a reason yet

 

This is awesome, i am going to do it when i get my FJ back! GOOD JOB!

 

It would be nice if someone came out with an outlet that would pop into one of the switches on the dash.

 

nice job- looks factory, But can you run you refrigerator on it with the engine off?

thats what i was thinking. ha!


anyway, great mod & photos.

off-topic: maybe the moab/s.e. can be slept in and it will come with a fridge/freezer built in. that would rock.

 

I wonder what another Toyota outlet would cost? Just the outlet part itself, then install it in the same as this application.

 

Agreed, I am trying to get the part number from my Toyota parts guy. I like the flip down door on the front one.

My ARB fridge (which is probably the best purchase I made in the last 3 years) will run on AC or DC. In the truck I prefer DC but was going to try AC with the power outlet that comes in the FJC. That was until I found out the outlet doesn't work when the truck is off. Was hoping since it has a switch it would.

 

I wonder what another Toyota outlet would cost? Just the outlet part itself, then install it in the same as this application.

The Toyota outlet sits into a plastic cradel that locks into the switch plate panel. I'm not sure if you can lock it into place if you were to add it somewhere else. You can see it here.

 

OK..since I just realized I never took pictures of the back of the install, I will quote this post from last year. It is a picture of the stock outlet:



As ruebarb explained, the outlet itself sits inside a plastic sleeve. This sleeve is one piece with the flip down cover. You can see the sleeve in the picture above...the plastic around the outlet is NOT part of the switch panel.

The way it works is you make your 1 1/8" hole, then slide the sleeve into place. It will press in just like the radioshack one. Next, you slide in the metal outlet into the plastic sleeve..as the outlet slides into place, tabs in the plastic sleeve are forced outwards (just behind the mounting surface) locking the sleeve into place. The outlet will click into place into the sleeve as well. It is now securely mounted, just like the factory one.

To hook it up, there are two tabs...one in the center and one on the side. Follow the original instructions in this thread and just hook up the red wire to the SIDE and the black wire to the CENTER. No need for any special harnesses or plugs. Simple install. The reason this is important: if you have the radioshack one and prefer the OEM one, all you need to do is pull out the radioshack one including wires (hopefully you left some slack), slide in the plastic sleeve, connect the oem plug and slide it back into place. 2 minutes tops.....

Here are the part numbers you'll need:

Power Socket: 85530-33020 MSRP: $18.43
Cover/Sleeve: 85535-60100-B1 MSRP: $6.89

This dealer site is selling them at $16.59 and $6.50
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214592

EDIT: Took a picture of the finished product at lunch (sorry, no DIY photos but install is very easy/straight forward)

 

The Toyota outlet sits into a plastic cradel that locks into the switch plate panel. I'm not sure if you can lock it into place if you were to add it somewhere else. You can see it here.

Could always use a 5 minute epoxy or something. Wont matter since its inside. I like the flip up cap too. Let me know if you get the #

 

FYI - Used the search and found some info on power outlets!

Wanted to add one myself and found very useful information here.
However, did not like (2) details:
1) tapping into the existing outlet gives you (2) outlets that don't work
when the key is off!
2) I did not want to sacrifice the little cubby hole for an outlet
with a plug sticking in it

Chose the console area for the new outlet and ran the wire to the fuse block.
Had to add about 10-12" onto the Radio Shack outlet to get there.

Included dimensions of outlet location in the pictures. Made sure I missed
molded ribs on the back side and missed the shifter. Left extra wire
under the console to make sure it did not catch the shifter. Used a meter
to find live tap points when key was off. Also used a 1 1/8" bit because
the recommended 1 3/32" is an odd size and I had a 1 1/8"! You will
need to file a small keyway for the anti-rotation rib on the outlet.

Drill your hole 3 5/8" from the front edge and .97" up from the bottom.
Note: The .97" dimension is important for (2) reasons:
Drill too high and you're into the radius on the console, drill too low
and you're into the overhang of the lower console piece.

Note: The top side of the first (3) open fuse ports on the bottom row are
hot when the key is off. I marked them with a red sharpie.

Aren't "sticky pads" cool!

Last piece of info:
I disconnected the battery for the project. By doing so you will need
to re-calibrate your compass when you are finished. I find that to calibrate
the compass, you need to drive in a "generous" circle, not a tight circle!

 

Nice work...

 

thanks ...

 

Where'd you get the sticky pad..that's just too cool.

 

wife bought me the standard issue "sticky" .... cut it down to fit the spot!

 

Very nice, so did you due a fuse tap or wire it in to the pannel?

 

Both installs are great. Thanks for the (better than mine) write up!

--Bill

 

I am giving mine a shot tonight. My chosen location for the rear outlet is just above the AC plug in. I popped it out last night and besides the ribs on the back it should work perfectly.

Anyone know if there is constant power to the subwoofer?

 

Love the locations used in both. I plan to install 2 "Sealink - 12 Volt Receptacles", one in each location described above, running both from the fuse panel. Pictures to follow.

 

Ruebarb, sorry just saw your note ....

I took a standard spade terminal and trimmed down the width with wire
cutters so it fits into the "incoming" side of the fuse slot and plugged 'er in.
The accessory outlet has an inline fuse, so no need for a second fuse.

 

Sorry guys, this was the post I was intending to ask a question about.
Is this safe to do?
I am not very electrically inclined so please work with me here.
Where does one get the standard spade terminal to trim down to fit the slot?
Did you use the same Radio shack outlet as ruebarb?
Also Do I need any extra Wiring to do this and where and how did you route the wiring?
THanks guys.
New to FJcruiserforums and have already found tons of info on here to soupe up my new FJ.

 

Still working on the wiring but I think it turned out nice.

 

Is this safe to do?
I don't want to start a fire or anything. Also How did you run the wire to the fuse box? Where did you ground the wire.
Thanks,
MO

 

Still working on the wiring but I think it turned out nice.

Hey! That is nice. Was it completely flat behind that panel (i.e. no ribs)? It looks like you could mount up two:

Note: Photoshop Job...

--Bill

 

There are slight ribs on the back. No problem to cut through with the hole saw. Plenty of room behind there for wiring etc - two could be added no problem. Nice use of the cloan tool BTW

The panel comes off easily - put a screw driver in the top and it just pops out.