The sensor for the regulator is usually connected to the positive post of the battery and when it senses a low voltage condition, allows more energy to flow in the rotor coil, creating more energy in the stator coils. It does this through a series of points, raising the points off of the contacts to allow less current to flow, or dropping points onto the contacts to increase current flow.
To me this seems to indicate that it will flow less if it doesn't "sense" a low voltage condition. For example if the battery I have is actually producing over 13v on it's own, it may not kick the alternator up to pull the voltage back up. I've noticed that when the battery is full it will actually show 13v+
To me this seems to indicate that it will flow less if it doesn't "sense" a low voltage condition. For example if the battery I have is actually producing over 13v on it's own, it may not kick the alternator up to pull the voltage back up.
Yep, we're saying the same thing I think... One thing though, the battery isn't "producing" 13v on its own, it maybe just can keep above the 13v (or whatever it really is) threshold for longer.
I wonder what a comparison with the stock battery would yield on this topic...
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Re: alternator and voltage regulator question
Ionization potential will keep it above 12.6-8v until it's drawn off.. Ron
Quote:
Mr R2FJ previously said:
Actually the battery does produce 13+v on it's own when the car is not started and it's fully charged. Verified with a fluke.
BTW love your avatar!
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Location: Oh mommy I ain't no commie I'm just doing what I can to live the good all American...Way
Posts: 2,100
Re: alternator and voltage regulator question
We designed and built chargers for low-level instrumentation and set the cutoff for 1 amp at 13.8v. Ron
Quote:
Mr R2FJ previously said:
Right this is my understanding as well, thanks for clarifying.
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08 SS, SS valve stem caps and exhaust tip
Rapper standing on the corner, wrappers flying in the wind... And in my quite reflection, I wonder why..