Yeah...I still think you're once again not following me in the slightest, thus your comments are making me shake my head. Let me dumb it down for you, when I take my line driver out, I have to use the GAIN knob on the amp to get the volume and voltage settings where they are supposed to be, when using the AMPLIFIER gain knob, the noise increases dramatically, at half way it's not where it's supposed to be, and the noise is very obvious.
With the line-driver, I barely have to turn the drivers knob up at all to get it PAST where the amp gains knob would have been at, thus reducing\eliminating the noise that was present when the amp gain was up to where it should be, you following yet? If not, then I give up, I can't find my way past your ego.
this was taken from the processor thread. are you saying that a line driver in this form degrades the sound? seems to me like you dont know what a line driver does for the sound.
Quote:
SandyFJ previously said:
Not really worth it...some line OUTPUT converters will actually "amplify" your system via their little gain knobs...but in my opinon they degrade sound, a Line DRIVER isn't really made for a stock system. Save up for a new HU, heck if I was you I'd shell out the $ right now (even if I didn't have it) because the Pionner D3's are DIRT cheap right now and they are a killer headunit. And in about a month, they will all be gone, and be replaced by Pionner F-Series of "Flash memory" head units...bleh.
all ratings for amplifiers are on an even plane. CEA-2006 standards.
Well, you will see some new model #'s this year from JL to more reflect the power at 14.4.. I know about the standards, but this is how lesser amps make them selves look bigger and the 12v vs 14.4v is not included in this standards system(this is from the horses mouth @ JL), now keep in mind that i am not going to continue on this, i am a JL dealer up here, and was just at the JL factory last month. It's the info i was given.
Well, you will see some new model #'s this year from JL to more reflect the power at 14.4.. I know about the standards, but this is how lesser amps make them selves look bigger and the 12v vs 14.4v is not included in this standards system(this is from the horses mouth @ JL), now keep in mind that i am not going to continue on this, i am a JL dealer up here, and was just at the JL factory last month. It's the info i was given.
just because they give out more information than required doesnt mean the amplifier isnt rated on an even plane. when the ratings are published in CA&E every year, it is all rated the same way.
i'm sure they dont tell you the deep secrets of what the slash series do at lower ohms. but that is either here nor there.
which JL location did you go to?
you can throw around where you have been before, but some of these people have tried to hire me when living in arizona. i still keep in touch with the presidents and owners of some companies.
I wasn't trying to start anything here, i didn't explain what i meant properly(i'm a slow typer), it's a consumer POV thing, i know they are all rated the same, but this isn't our thread so very quick...
I don't disagree with what you said about ratings, yeah we learned some neat secrets, Miramar, FL, Andy is such a nice guy its unbelievable!
Last edited by marcus21x : 05-12-2008 at 07:25 AM.
Pioneer AVH-P6800
Fosgate punch 500 amp for sub
Fosgate punch 12" P2 in Q-logic box
Fosgate p450.4 4 channel amp
Components in the front, infiniti 3" in the rear
I've had noise since all that was put in, I went back and forth to circuit city 5 times, they made sure there was no ground loops, they moved the amp around, changed the grounds, re-ran the power wires farther from the RCA's...I sent the amp back and crutchfield sent me a brand new one, STILL NOISE...finally circuit city put RCA filters on, and it helped but I still had noise and just got used to it...
Recently I replaced the AVH-p6800 wit a Kenwood DNX 8120, and the Q logic box with the wicked cas box. I had the best local shop re-wire the 4 channel amp, they did a quality job (they work one imports, luxery cars, and do alot of custom work)...after two seperate times of trouble shooting there was still noise...I checked everything my self and the power wires are run separately, the ground is short, the noise filters are still on the RCA's (they even put on newer higher quality ones)...and there IS STILL NOISE... Finally they tinkered with the amp, and connected it to a single test speaker, and THERE WAS NOISE...so the shop is basically saying its my amp, which has already been replaced once...the last thing they did that helped a lil bit leave the amp unmounted, its just resting on the plastic under my passenger seat
Basically they said fosgate's sometimes make alot of noise...
My question is, what brand or maybe what model is notorious for good noise reduction...I need atleast 65 watts x 4 RMS at 4ohm (would like more)...and I don't want to spend more than 500...
I've read the JL A4300 is really good at noise reduction, but its really weak on power...
Also, alot of people have told me 4 channel amps are notorious for producing noise in big block V6's and V8's...is that true?
Any help would be good, and don't flame me if this has been posted before, i did the best searching i could, and found alot of trouble shooting on fixing noise, but nothing on the best amp for keeping noise low...
OH almost forgot, the noise is a soft buzz, with a whine in the background that gets higher pitched with RPM's
Quote:
hakim100 previously said:
SandyFJ you gave some very good points, I think what I'm going to do is re wire all the power cables to one distributer box and ground that...
BUT they said it is for sure the amp because the disconnected everything but power and hooked up one test speaker, and the second you touched the RCA stubs with anything metal it started making the noise...
Does that make since? does taht mean it is for sure the amp or could still possibly be the grounding or other issues?
Hakim, where is it grounded? where is the amps grounded on the truck? True it is hard to say or help unless we can see your setup. It might contradict theories about setting up a sound system in a vehicle but try running the ground straight to the battery and see what happens.
If you use a big gauge wire from the battery positive to the amp/dist. block, and you ground the amp to the nearest clean metal there is with the same gauge wire, chances are is that the body of the truck isn't using the same gauge ground wire to the batt. and alternator ground. Try doing the "Big Three." and see if that helps.
I wasn't trying to start anything here, i didn't explain what i meant properly(i'm a slow typer), it's a consumer POV thing, i know they are all rated the same, but this isn't our thread so very quick...
I don't disagree with what you said about ratings, yeah we learned some neat secrets, Miramar, FL, Andy is such a nice guy its unbelievable!
i wouldnt call them neat by any means. i would call them lame if i had to throw a term at it.
OK, so to update everyone I stupidly took the installer advice, got rid of the supposed bad amp and bought a JL audio 600/4v2 (the amp with the highest signal to noise reduction in cruthfields catalogue that was under 600).
I put in the new amp my self using the old wiring and what do you know, the NOISE GOT WORSE.
I put in the new amp my self so I could answer some questions about the install.
The ground is bolted directly to the metal between the passenger seat and the door jam....under that plastic panel that pops out...he didn't sand away the paint...so fixing the ground is my first mission
The power wire is run around the back of the front seats to the left side of the vehicle then to the front and the battery, the RCA's and speaker wires are run directly from the passenger side to the front along the door jam and up to the deck. So in other words the rca's and power wires never come close to each other until they reach the amp. The RCA's and speaker wires are run together.
I am starting easy and working my way up, first I bought a JL audio ground bolt, I'm going to dremmel some paint away, and use the bolt to ground the deck and the 4 channel amp in the same spot (so I know for sure there is no ground loop)
Three questions I have are:
1) should I ground my sub amp to the same spot at the ground bolt or leave it the way it is?
2) is it ok that the RCA's are run with the speaker wire on the way back to the deck?
3) I believe what the installer did was run new speaker wire back to deck and spliced it with the old factory wire, instead of running new speaker wire to each speaker...could this be a problem?
Any help and comments would be appreciated, this noise is driving me insane...
1) Yes, this is to just further eliminate the ground loop potential issue.
2) Yes, this shouldn't be a problem.
3) If you don't like cheese, then it's a problem, but not a real problem for what you are looking for, you might want to rerun those to the speakers...
Also, i would suggest upgrading your engine and body grounds in the truck, and when you ground your deck to the back, twist the ground and the remote on together, this will provide some noise resistance on the remote line...
Maybe some pics might help some of us to help you.
Last edited by marcus21x : 05-18-2008 at 05:12 PM.
Linear Mode
