I've been thinking about improving the FJammer 9-speaker system, without outlaying a lot of cash on a custom system, and came across these the other day:
How much do you like the stock system's features? I think you can do a lot with a processor, outboard amp and new speakers. In the end you will probably spend about the same as just replacing the head unit (with something that can power four speakers) and the speakers.
How much do you like the stock system's features? I think you can do a lot with a processor, outboard amp and new speakers. In the end you will probably spend about the same as just replacing the head unit (with something that can power four speakers) and the speakers.
Yeah, I'm beginning to come to that conclusion, too. Especially after you consider the fact that once you get a clean signal it makes sense to amplify that signal to some quality speakers.
Sigh... just trying not to go overboard with a new system. But, looks like it's all or nothing...
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Dennis' Titanium: '08 Titanium 4X4; AT; LD; A-Trac; Uniden PC78XLT, Bandi mount, 4' whip; Toyota extra horn mod; Predator step rails; no mud flaps; LT285/70/R17 Hankook Dynapro MT tars; 3" Lift (OME 884 front coils & N140S shocks, ToyTech Medium rear coils, OME N71E rear shocks); All-Phase rear diff skid; SCUBA breather mod; Steel sway bar collars; All-Pro sway bar links, rear shock skids, and lower link skids; Digger upper and lower rear links; Rasta4x4 skids; Toytec 1" diff drop kit (as soon as I get around to spacing the skids)
I think some people have been pretty happy with just replacing the speakers. Do a search and see what others have done. I know the factory speakers are wired "strangely".
I've already replaced the 6x9's in the doors, and it was a vast improvement (although some minor door metal grinding was necessary, to use the same factory mounting holes).
Maybe if I'm a good boy this year Santa will bring me a nice system.
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Dennis' Titanium: '08 Titanium 4X4; AT; LD; A-Trac; Uniden PC78XLT, Bandi mount, 4' whip; Toyota extra horn mod; Predator step rails; no mud flaps; LT285/70/R17 Hankook Dynapro MT tars; 3" Lift (OME 884 front coils & N140S shocks, ToyTech Medium rear coils, OME N71E rear shocks); All-Phase rear diff skid; SCUBA breather mod; Steel sway bar collars; All-Pro sway bar links, rear shock skids, and lower link skids; Digger upper and lower rear links; Rasta4x4 skids; Toytec 1" diff drop kit (as soon as I get around to spacing the skids)
The only way this will work is if you buy a bunch of amplifiers. And new speakers if you want. There is no way that you can insert a processor into a factory stereo. The stereo would need a preamp in/out loop for this to work. Since most car stereos dont feature this option like many home stereos do. It would be better to upgrade the entire system or simply just do without. Take your $150-300 dollars and spend elseware. Good luck.
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How much do you like the stock system's features? I think you can do a lot with a processor, outboard amp and new speakers. In the end you will probably spend about the same as just replacing the head unit (with something that can power four speakers) and the speakers.
a decent processor, decent amp, and decent speakers will be about 5x what replacing the head unit with something decent will cost.
Not really worth it...some line OUTPUT converters will actually "amplify" your system via their little gain knobs...but in my opinon they degrade sound, a Line DRIVER isn't really made for a stock system. Save up for a new HU, heck if I was you I'd shell out the $ right now (even if I didn't have it) because the Pionner D3's are DIRT cheap right now and they are a killer headunit. And in about a month, they will all be gone, and be replaced by Pionner F-Series of "Flash memory" head units...bleh.
he wasnt talking about a line driver, a processor. line drivers dont degrade sound if used properly. a gain knob doesnt amplify anything. and as far as line drivers go, they dont improve the actual sound, they just amplify the original signal.
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Linear Mode
