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I hate my Fox Suspension right now.

13K views 25 replies 17 participants last post by  Jrnottarts 
#1 · (Edited)
Is Fox Suspension this hard to adjust?

I purchased my Fox suspension from All-Pro last month for my '13 TT. I decided to go with the 2.5's external reservoirs (extended travel) for the fronts and 2.0's for the rear along with All-Pro's UCA.

I installed the suspension over this past weekend and drove it to work as-is Monday to make sure there were no rattles, squeaks or funny noises. All was good. Monday night I attempted to adjust the front ride height to make it level. Front wheels were removed, unbolted the sway bar, the bottom shock mount and loosened the tightening nut for the adjustment collar. The collar would not budge no matter how I tried to turn it. I double checked to confirm there was no load on the coilover. Removed the coilover body fully to try and adjust the height on my work bench. No luck. Put the truck back together so I could drive it to work the next day. Tonight I'm attempting to adjust the suspension again, this time using a spring compressor. It has taken me two hours to adjust ONE coilover body (not even the full 3" lift as I can't get it to turn anymore). I've started on the other side but I'm too frustrated to continue forward at this point.

The experience with this kit has been really ****ing aggravating. It's enough that I've considered removing the stupid kit and putting the stock suspension back on. I've installed NUMEROUS suspension kits in the past on my track cars and have NEVER had this much difficultly adjusting ride height. Hell, I could have corner-balanced one of the track cars in the same amount of time it's taken to adjust this one shock body. The fact that I'm having to remove the coilover to adjust the height is unacceptable IMO. If you haven't already figure it out, I'm not impressed with this kit at all.

Is it just me or all these kits a PITA to adjust?
 
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#3 ·
Hey, I have Icon 2.5 coilovers and didn't have any problems with adjusting the ride height at all. I adjusted them with a spanner wrench that I bought directly through Icon. I didn't disassemble anything to adjust them either, I just did it sitting on my driveway and took some load off of the springs. I couldn't move the collar by hand though. I'd say get a spanner wrench and you'll be able to turn it.

ICON 2.5" 2 Pin Spanner Wrench for Coilover Shocks

:cheers:
 
#4 · (Edited)
x2, I used my Icon spanner wrench and had no issues adjusting the coilovers. I didn't even need to remove the tires, just had to jack up the side I was working on, loosen the set screw on the adjusting collar, and start cranking with the spanner.
 
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#6 ·
BIG secret...loosen the lock screw and SOAK the threads with WD-40. Been there and fought with it too.

You soak the threads and the nut down with WD-40 it goes super easy! No issues at all once you do that. It's a shame that your lack of and/or experience has lead you to have a negative review of an awesome product.

Also, cut a small piece of pipe, maybe 12" long to slip over the end of the spanner. It will make this go smooth and easy. Put the spring compressor away and rock on.
 
#8 ·
As I had mentioned, this isn't my first rodeo with suspension goodies so the lack of experience isn't the issue here. It's the lack of being able to get the collar to rotate to adjust the height that is. Although I did spray the threads with WD-40, I didn't SOAK them down like you had mentioned. I'll do that later today and give it another go.

I bet you missed that lock screw like the others mentioned. I learned this with my SAW coilovers. Some coilovers use a double screw collar to hold the locking collar in place.
Did you loosen the set sscrew that holds the collar tight? Never had a problem adjusting them.
Apparently you guys didn't read the entire post as I mentioned I loosed the locking screw on the collar. :grin
 
#7 ·
I bet you missed that lock screw like the others mentioned. I learned this with my SAW coilovers. Some coilovers use a double screw collar to hold the locking collar in place.
 
#10 ·
I did it to ensure full tension was released from the shock body. It's an easy bolt to get to so I figured why not?!
 
#11 ·
Very odd your having this much problem, looking at your original post. "Front wheels were removed, unbolted the sway bar, the bottom shock mount and loosened the tightening nut for the adjustment collar.".....You do Not mention you loosened the SET SCREWS found on the collars (require an Allen key), maybe wording or maybe a step unseen..... This is not a cheap product, the machining is very good so I would not expect anyone to have the problem your having. Did instructions come with the shocks, did you read them?? Why are you undoing the bottom shock mount and sway bar?? You only need to jack up the corner of the vehicle you want to adjust putting the suspension into "full drop out". I would remove the set screws completely and spray the WD40 in that hole and the full collar, as said a section of pipe over the shock wrench ( you are using the correct shock wrench) ? Will help a lot. These do require a good breakfast to turn the adjuster but the trouble your having is nothing I have seen or heard of. Double check you have not missed anything, as excessive force is sure to result in damage to a expensive, nice shock. Let us know what works.

Cheers
 
#12 ·
my only input is that I also soaked the adjustment ring, spring and shims on my previous TT lift. It was difficult to turn with the spanners provided, so I just cut in a square hole to match my breaker bar and used that as an extension and then it was easy peasy, badda bing... I never removed the bottom bolt.

procedure for me was, lift vehicle place on stands, remove front sway bar links from the spindle and swing out of the way to get the spanners in there, spray down and adjust. a bit time consuming, but easy once I added leverage.

OP hope it works out for ya...

Race car huh? which team and what type of track car?
 
#16 ·
Race car huh? which team and what type of track car?
I only wish I could afford a race team. I've built a few different cars for track usage. Here's me taking my wife out around AMP late last year before selling it. LS1 FD.

Just passed through T3 going into T4. by MeFryRice,
on Flickr

Coming into T10. by MeFryRice, on Flickr

Also- were the shocks set at max height? Some set them this way and then you can dial them back out (my SAW and Fox both came this way)
Unfortunately, no. They were set on what I'm guessing was a 1.5" lift.

Sorry man, was't trying to insult you at all. I did the same thing. I destroyed a spanner wrench and had an expletive laden fit trying to do the same thing. Between adding the extension on the spanner and soaking the collar and shock body threads, it literally took longer to get the wheels on and off than it did to run down the collar. :cheers:
Sorry for my attitude the other day when I replied. After spending more time than I felt I should had, I was a bit sour.

This morning I spent more time messing with them, after giving them a bath in WD40 and using the handle off my jack as an extension, I was able to get them to start moving although it never was really easy. I'm under the impression some of the threads were cross-threaded during assembly once I was able to inspect the threads, where the collar was originally sitting. After a couple hours, I had the truck back together and leveled out.

I'm going to drive the truck over the next day or two to allow the suspension to settle and make any more height adjustments before doing the alignment.
 
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#13 ·
All I ever did was to lift the rig so that the wheel was in droop. This made it easy with my SAW. Wonder if you have a set thats cross-threaded.

Also- were the shocks set at max height? Some set them this way and then you can dial them back out (my SAW and Fox both came this way)
 
#15 ·
I sprayed my Radflos collars and threads before even installing them with PB blaster. After installing them, the collars could be turn up and down like butter. Use pb blaster and let it work for about 20min.
 
#21 ·
Reviving an old thread. I just installed Fox 2.5's this past weekend. One of the allen screws that tighten the collar is hidden behind the shock, so I imagine I will need to take that side off and loosen the allen screw. I emailed Fox Support and they said the only way to adjust their coilovers without permanent damage is to adjust them while they are not on the vehicle and only with a spring compressor. Doesn't that defeat the purpose of coilovers if you have to pull them off the vehicle to adjust?

Some of you are saying a little WD-40 or PB Blaster will help tremendously, but am I really going to damage my shocks by adjusting them while they are still on my FJ? I planned on jacking up the front of the vehicle so they are in full droop, but completely removing them seems excessive...

Thoughts?
 
#23 ·
Yes we had one (or I think both) collars with the Allen screw at the back, thankfully I noticed before the install so we loosened it and rotated it first.

I also had the left and right labels incorrect on them and the hoses at an angle that proved impossible to get them to flex in the right direction to get the reservoirs on the mounts, we had to de-gas and then loosen the hose at both ends to get it right.

Don't get the only adjust off the truck either. Mine were adjusted once fitted without issue.
 
#22 ·
I mean, unless you can get to all the set screws, you are screwed into taking them off, or at least somehow getting to them.

I'd say if you can actually get to the set screws, then your all set and can adjust them on the truck pending you can get the spanners in.
 
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