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Some 3" Toytec Install Issues Please Help!

3K views 23 replies 7 participants last post by  JIL_24/7 
#1 ·
Hello,
I am in the process of installing my 3" Toytec Bilstein lift. I have both of the front coilovers in place and all of the bolts back in place, BUT I am struggling to find the right torque specs for some of the nuts/bolts. I can decipher the specs for the "Lower Shock Bolt", the "Upper Shock Tower Nuts" and the "Brake Calipers" (I'm doing brakes while I'm doing this). However, I can't figure out what the specs are, even with reading the chart from Toyota, for what Toytec calls the "Top Sway Bar Links" and the "Lower Ball Joint Mount Bolts". Also, how do I tighten the "top sway bar links"? What is the best tool as the bolt spins when you try to loosen/tighten the nut? Am I doing it wrong? I'm sure I probably am as this has taken up far too much time. I appreciate any help I can get. And yes I did research and I did search the forum, but being a total noob I don't know what Toyota terminology matches the Toytec terminology. Thanks
 
#2 ·
Some 3" Toytec Install Issues Please Help!

Hello,

I am in the process of installing my 3" Toytec Bilstein lift. I have both of the front coilovers in place and all of the bolts back in place, BUT I am struggling to find the right torque specs for some of the nuts/bolts. I can decipher the specs for the "Lower Shock Bolt", the "Upper Shock Tower Nuts" and the "Brake Calipers" (I'm doing brakes while I'm doing this). However, I can't figure out what the specs are, even with reading the chart from Toyota, for what Toytec calls the "Top Sway Bar Links" and the "Lower Ball Joint Mount Bolts". Also, how do I tighten the "top sway bar links"? What is the best tool as the bolt spins when you try to loosen/tighten the nut? Am I doing it wrong? I'm sure I probably am as this has taken up far too much time. I appreciate any help I can get. And yes I did research and I did search the forum, but being a total noob I don't know what Toyota terminology matches the Toytec terminology. Thanks


If you are looking at the service manual, the torque in ft lbs is the right most number inside the parentheses. There is a legend on the bottom left of the page that shows the units for the numbers.



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#8 ·
Well, I will try. Got a few more questions though everyone! So the front is done and all the bolts torqued to factory specs. I set the FJ down and the lift is measuring at just under 24" which is nearly 4" higher than it was. Will it settle on the first ride?
Next question. I have the FJ up and the rear wheels off waiting to start the rear tomorrow afternoon, but I'm looking at cutting off the top bolt on the rear shocks because no amount of PB blaster is going to work. So the question is do I re-use any of the factory shock parts on the bilstein 5125's? Also, with the bilsteins there are two sleeves sent in a package labeled "For Install". What are those for? Also, there are three washers on the shock one larger than the other two. What particular order are those washers supposed to go in? Bottom line I don't know if I need to retain the top rubber pieces of the factory shock and where and how the washers are installed with the new bilstein. I can't find instructions specific to this install online or from searching the forum and the ones from Toytec show nothing about how the shock is fastened they just say to remove the factory shock and put the new ones in. I know I probably sound clueless once again, but I don't want to do anything wrong. Thanks for any help you might have.
 
#9 ·
One more quick thing. I purchased Airlift air bags for the FJ as well that I will be putting in. If I precut the rubber bump stops more than I need to will that negatively affect anything except that the FJ will drop slightly lower with weight in the rear before being stopped by the airbags? I ask because I have purchased airbags that someone else used for similar 2.5" coils and they had to cut off three segments, so I was hoping to skip the step of installing the coils and measuring how many I had to remove. I was just going to cut three segments off and install the bags as I put in the new coils.
 
#10 ·
The short answer is, yes, your new front suspension will settle after you have driven it. Mine took about 500 miles of combined driving on the street and some relatively easy, rutted, washboard roads to settle in.

I'm not sure what the installation "sleeves" might be without seeing them. My stock rear shock stud mounts were a real B__ch to get off also. Cutting them with a hacksaw or angle head grinder may be your only option.

When installing the new shocks, I mount the lower end first, then compress it and guide it through the top mount.

If you don't have new shock stud bushings for the top, you will need to re-use the stock ones.

The washers you mentioned go on the new shocks the same as the stock ones. the two equal sized washers would go on the top stud mount of the shock. On the stud, place one washer with the cup side up, then one of the rubber bushings, the stud then goes through the upper mount bracket followed by the second bushing and washer. The larger washer should be for the lower shock eye mount under the nut.

As a general rule, I usually torque the shock stud mount down until the rubber bushings expand out to the same diameter as the washers. I have done this for thirty years with no problems ever.

If you want, you can order polyurethane stud mount bushings for the shocks. They are really inexpensive, and will last about forever. I have them on my rig. Just go on Energy Suspension's web site or Amazon and you will find them quite easily.

Sorry I can't help too much on the air bags. I really don't have much knowledge in that area.

Hope that helps.

Just take your time and it will go together fine. :bigthumb:
 
#12 ·
The 5125's that I have have a much larger bolt with very little thread. The original hardware does not fit over the bolt and the rubber pieces would take up too much room. On the OE shock there is a smooth portion and then the threaded bolt. The 5125 has no un-threaded piece and is about half the length. There is also not a top shock bolt. It is an "eye to stud adapter" from what I can tell.
 
#18 ·
Ok,
So I heard back from Toytec. I do not re-use any of the factory hardware with my set-up. They sent me this link:
http://www.procompusa.com/downloads/PDFs/is/690001.pdf

I also sent them pics of the front and they said it appears to be installed correctly and it should settle

I hope to have the rear with the airbags done by this afternoon. Then I will take it for a spin and know if it falls apart or settles at all
 
#19 ·
JIL_24/7... glad we (Toytec) could get you squared away this morning (I was in office during the email communication).

We're here if ya need anything else, of course, and look forward to seeing the post-install pics!

Cheers,
 
#22 · (Edited)
Ok. Here we go. I got the rear done and the airbags in. I took it for a spin, AND IT DIDN'T FALL APART! Funny thing is the alignment is better than it was. The front is now sitting right at 23" and the rear just over 23". It was not easy torquing to top rear shock bolts with the adapter, but I think it is ok now. It's a locking nut and I'll check it again soon. I ran the air hose into the rear of the vehicle instead of through the bumper I ran it out of the rear light access so that it is easy to get to and service. I will try some photos.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B771Dz5kVaAhZkgwSDRhcm5sY1lKYWJMMWpTa2RwdVlwRUhr/view?usp=sharing
Above is a broad shot of the rig
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B771Dz5kVaAheFBBZy1qV0R3M1hfZGhna2VHQ0dqY1U5Yi1j/view?usp=sharing
Above is the rear shock adapter
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B771Dz5kVaAhR1FxeTRGXzk5Y1lpeUplTVkzRjhtYV9zTjhZ/view?usp=sharing
Above is a view of the air bag
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B771Dz5kVaAhVmg5S25hS0w0YUM0RU1uWG1qUkZNZ3dxbGtr/view?usp=sharing
Above is the installation point of the AirLift system
 
#23 ·
The new front bumper and winch are next. I feel more comfortable with tackling those along with the fog lights and switch. I also have speakers to go in and will be trying to plastidip the silver soon.
Also, as soon as I can find some rock sliders that can double as tube steps I will be pulling those running boards off, but my wife is too short and she says they need to stay until I have an alternative.
 
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