My Light Racing upper control arm bushings are toast. I bought them in 2008 when they first came out and they had the known bad rubber bushing design that deteriorate. I meant to change them out in 2009 but...
I ordered the Ball Joint Kit and Bushing Replacement Kit. Both of these kits have design updates(Greaseable design, RideSpec bushing, etc) since the original version and should be a good fix.
Has anyone done one or both of these? Looks straight forward, although I don't have a press. The hardest part looks like removing the old ones.
Just doing that. You are right, hardest thing is to remove old bushes. I burned them out, take so much time to drill them and it's easier to see how deep you are going with your reciprocating saw when the collar is clean. Cut the collar through, if it's not, it's very tight to punch out.
And one thing, don't try to push them out by press, I bended one end by trying it, it was hard job to get it straigh again.
Thanks for the info. I didn't want to take the chance of messing it up or the rebuild taking too long, so I just ordered another set of LR UCAs so I could get going as fast as possible. I'll rebuild the old ones when I'm not pressured for time.
I can't speak for rebuilding your older set of UCAs, but I just installed a new set of SPC UCAs and the new bushing and ball joint design is great. Very easy to install.
After only 4 months of use I just had to rebuild both SPC UCAs. Balljoint on passenger and bushing on drivers were wobbling. Looked like the rubber bushing material had somehow shrunk, as the sleeve slid right out. SPC suggested that perhaps temperature (wheeling Moab)had played a role which doesn't make sense to me. They couldn't warranty as I'd bought them new from another forum member. Replaced both bushings anyhow - good to know they're upgraded. Balljoint install was easy - haven't done autopsy yet to see if I can figure out why the old one failed (again SPC suggested it was Moab lol) but happy to have greasables on both sides now...hope that increases their lifespan :|
Wow, 4 months. ? I drove 4 years/60tmls with 35" tires. Hope the new greasable ball joints and urethane bushes will last longer. I'll install zerk fittings to the bushes before mounting, should help them.
I hope so too, now that I have SPCs latest version. Hearing what you and Loganbeere have experienced makes me think it was manufacturing issues...defects. Good luck with yours!
Nevermind? Take it with a grain of salt... I personally went with Camburg Ball Joint UCA's. They utilize oem spec'ed ball joints you can get at any auto parts store
The "nevermind" was not referring to any post here other than the one I created, then quickly deleted and marked nevermind. I will change it to be just '....' so it doesn't confuse anyone.
Maybe have you sway bar disconnected and lift the frame so the front wheel is at full droop and see where the ball joint is in relation to the coilover, is it touching?
Replaced my upper ball joints this morning. Holy crap....17832 miles and these original joints and they are so worn I can get them to clunk in my hand. I am in hopes that the new greasable ball joints will have a much longer life. I would hope, 50k without excessive wheeling.
Less than a 20k mileage lifespan, with no extreme wheeling, is just flipping stupid.
My LR balljoints didn't last either, though the bushings are still good and squeak free. The ones I replaced them with were supposedly an upgraded design, though there are no visible differences and they aren't greasable.
Now they have a 3rd design, that's greasable, so the ones I have probably won't last.
I'm disappointed, but at least they recognize the problems and try to correct it
You mean SPC now sells the UCA with zerks for the bushings? Saw that pictured earlier in this thread and assumed the poster had installed himself....as I now plan to cuz the squeaking of the original, non-upgraded bushings on passenger side is driving me nuts.
Sounds like I need to throw my spare balljoint in to the gear bag :|
May as well replace nearly everything when I have it apart.
Inner tie rods are next to be ordered
Appreciate everyone that contributes to many of these threads. I think I read about 100x more than I post.
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