I am sure some will think this should be in wheel and tires, however I feel that since this has to do with the front hub, it is suspension.
I know that the FJ uses 12 x 1.5 metric wheel studs. The front studs are shorter that the rear studs, although not by much. I went to NAPA to get myself 12 studs to put in the front hubs that would allow full thread engagement while using acorn type nuts. As it stands the Mag/hub-centric style nuts that are stock pass through the wheel allowing full engagement.
So now we are to the actual question. Does anyone know the specs on the installation surface? As it turns out the 12 x 1.5 is one of the most common thread sizes and the choices for the installation surface was 3 pages long in the NAPA catalog. I need as much info as I can get about the diameter and type of knurl on that surface.
Thanks for any help anyone can give.
__________________
07 FJC Ti.
All Pro Sliders, A/P Front bumper with small light hoop, A/P rear bumper, IPF's, 55w rock lights, Cobra CB, Bandi mount, 4' fiberglass whip on a spring, 6" Rough Country, 2" wheel adapters, 33" MTR's, LED mirror lights, a few LED's to light up the lower switch panel.
You should be able to look up in that book the knurl dia for a toyota stud and then find something exact or really close but in a longer length. I have done this many of times but it has to be around .2 bigger nothing smaller. I also believe ARP makes extended wheels studs so you may want to check them out.
I talked with a great guy at my local NAPA, he had me call him as I was measuring the trucks studs.He helped me find a stud that I think will take care of my FJ. I picked up 12 of them last night on my way to work. I will be installing them on my weekend (sun-tue) along with my lift. Once I have made sure everything fits I will post a part number and maybe a few pics of before and after thread engaugement as well as vital measurements.
__________________
07 FJC Ti.
All Pro Sliders, A/P Front bumper with small light hoop, A/P rear bumper, IPF's, 55w rock lights, Cobra CB, Bandi mount, 4' fiberglass whip on a spring, 6" Rough Country, 2" wheel adapters, 33" MTR's, LED mirror lights, a few LED's to light up the lower switch panel.
Well the wheels stud transfer was a success. On the front of the FJ the studs were a bit short to use my wheel spacers. I was only seeing the stud half way through the open end acorn style lug nut. I took a few measurements, and talk to a very sharp guy at my local NAPA (thanks Jim). He went out his way to help me find a stud that would fit my needs.
The studs the the FJ measured to be about 8mm to short. I went with a stud that was 10mm longer just to be extra safe as some studs have the first few mm without thread, and the ones I got where just that way. I now have
thread all the way through my nuts with a bit of "blank" stud on the end. If the time ever comes to remove the wheels adapter, the stock lug nuts are deep enough to go over the longer studs without and issues. I have already mounted a wheel without the spacer to verify.
The NAPA part number for the new studs is "641-4119" they are intended for late model Ford full size. This could include Crown Vic's, Town Cars or even F-150's. They were 2.99 a stud and I used 12ea. of them. The rear studs came to be just flush with my nuts so I am ok with that.
To replace your studs you will need either an air compressor (or power tank) or a hydraulic press. You will also be removing the front hubs, not that big of a deal but that mean you need to pull that 35mm axel nut, so plan accordingly.
1- Raise and support the front of you FJ and pull the front tires.
2- Remove the brake calipers (17mm bolt) and hang them from the frame or upper a-arm with a wire hanger or similar method.
3- Now remove your rotor and set aside.
4- At this time spray where the studs come through the hub with some "Triflow" of other spay lube of you choice.
5- Remove the hub dust cover with a small screw driver and light hammering.
6- Pull the large cotter key, the nut key hat and the 35mm axel nut, tap the axle back with a hammer and drift.
7- Using a 17mm wrench loosen the 4 hub nuts.
*at this time also note the backing plate clocking as it will come with the hub*
*you can not fully remove them as they are "captive" between the hub and the flange*
8- At this point I used an air hammer to drive out the old studs- you could also press them out.
9- Once the studs are out, turn the hub over and install the new studs
in the same manner you removed the stock one.
*I used a 4x4 to set the hub on as I drove the new studs in*
10- Reinstall backing plate and hub torque the 4 17mm hub bolts.
11- Install and torque axle nut install nut hat, new cotter key and dust cover.
12- Install rotor (spray with brake clean)
13- Install caliper and torque 17mm caliper bolts.
14- Install wheel adapters or wheels as required
15- Feel safer knowing you have full thread engagement on you front wheels!
__________________
07 FJC Ti.
All Pro Sliders, A/P Front bumper with small light hoop, A/P rear bumper, IPF's, 55w rock lights, Cobra CB, Bandi mount, 4' fiberglass whip on a spring, 6" Rough Country, 2" wheel adapters, 33" MTR's, LED mirror lights, a few LED's to light up the lower switch panel.
If using an air hammer a piece of 4x4 to set the hub on to drive in the new studs.
35mm socket
17mm socket
17mm wrench
12 oz hammer
small screw driver
drift
__________________
07 FJC Ti.
All Pro Sliders, A/P Front bumper with small light hoop, A/P rear bumper, IPF's, 55w rock lights, Cobra CB, Bandi mount, 4' fiberglass whip on a spring, 6" Rough Country, 2" wheel adapters, 33" MTR's, LED mirror lights, a few LED's to light up the lower switch panel.
Linear Mode
