6" lift with 33s?

[DominicG]

TennesseeSquire previously said:

Wrong

BudBuild makes the skids that work with the Rough Country 6" lift, check Matt07FJ's build for those

Also, the Rough Country 6" kit comes with a front skid plate, check my build for it.

I did not know the buds were already out.





What about the procomp and fabtech??

[TennesseeSquire]

DominicG previously said:

I did not know the buds were already out.





What about the procomp and fabtech??

I don't know if anybody having those has contact Bud about a front skid plate.
The rest of skids are the same.

[BigEd78]

TennesseeSquire previously said:

You picked a old picture, didn't you?

I sorry that my FJ looks "funky" to you, but if you would like be buy me some 35" tires I would gladly accept them

I wish my FJ looked as "funky" as yours.

[F.E.A.R.]

TennesseeSquire previously said:

You picked a old picture, didn't you?

I sorry that my FJ looks "funky" to you, but if you would like be buy me some 35" tires I would gladly accept them

Calls 'em like I sees 'em. You have a huge HUGE gap there, it looks odd and almost like a Jeep with a body lift kinda look. Alas, you got the lift for free, so it's no wonder you went with a 6"

[blindluck]

TennesseeSquire previously said:

6" with BFG All Terrain KO's 305-65-17" tires 16-17 mpg
6" with BFG Mud Terrain KM2's 305-65-17" tires 13-14 mpg

I think Matt is getting around 11 with 35" Dick Cepek Mud Country tires & a full set of BudBuilt skid plates.

Sorry for being off-topic.
That is an amazing difference with MPG you measured and I'm having trouble grasping it. I just called BFG and they told me the weights (and measured sizes) of those tires are nearly identical at 62.5# for the KO and 64.3# for the KM2. Sure, there is a difference in rolling resistance between them but can't see that making up to 30% (!) difference in overall mileage. There must be something I'm missing here.

PM me if it's more appropriate. Thanks.

[4RnrJ]

calijetfxr previously said:

Thanks for all of your replies. As far as a 6" lift not giving any advantages over a 3" lift with anything smaller than 33s, with all due respect, I believe this to be an incorect statement. You would be correct that you don't gain any advantage at the diferentials but measure the distance to your sliders and you will gain clearance. I've always runa 3 inch lift in the past and while very practicle, I would often wind up hung up on my belly skids or sliders when wheeling (over a berm for example). A 6" lift would help to alleviate that type of situation with or without the larger tires. Or I could just pick a better line... Thanks again for all your responses.

Yes it might improve some clearances issues, but really that is a minor point compared to overall performance. Considering all options out there, there isn't one 6" lift that can compare performance wise to many 3" lifts (icon, fox, king, etc). If clearance is only your issue, then yeah maybe that 6" will help you, otherwise a 3" will perform better and be more safe on and offroad.

[plnfixr320]

I run a 6" lift with 33's. I also get some tire rub in the rear in full articulation. I don't think it looks "funny" at all. I also would hate to have gotten 35's and tore my fenders up.



rub:

[DC Cruiser]

Its tough sometimes to achieve the right balance of lift and tire size on some vehicles. Some look worse than others with smaller tires on lifted vehicles. I know that around here there are a lot of 8" lifted PU's with a variety of tire sizes under them and some of them look pretty enemic. I haven't seen a 6" lifted FJ other than pics so its pretty hard to give any judgement. The bottom line is if you like the looks of your FJ well than thats all that counts. IMHO

[OregonSpeedFreak]

IMHO the better or besT (i may be biased) combination is a 3" Icon Lift (which is much more substanative than RC) with 33" tires and bushwacker fender flares. no more rubbing. 35"s beat the livin crap out of the toyata drive train, 33's are bad enough. reducing your rotational weight load as well as you static starting weight will prolong your drivetrain,suspension,steering and brake systems.I also installed inexpensive firestone airbags in my 3" Icon rear springs to give me a bit more lift if and when i need it. Jason Demello at Demello Offroad can tell you about Icon Vehicle Dynamics suspensions and the relation and 33's and 35's...GOOD LUCK

[DrSolar]

calijetfxr previously said:

Thanks for all of your replies. As far as a 6" lift not giving any advantages over a 3" lift with anything smaller than 33s, with all due respect, I believe this to be an incorect statement. You would be correct that you don't gain any advantage at the diferentials but measure the distance to your sliders and you will gain clearance. I've always runa 3 inch lift in the past and while very practicle, I would often wind up hung up on my belly skids or sliders when wheeling (over a berm for example). A 6" lift would help to alleviate that type of situation with or without the larger tires. Or I could just pick a better line... Thanks again for all your responses.

That is what the rock sliders are for, sliding on rocks. Always get just enough lift to put on the tires you want, too much lift can destabilize the vehicle and cause a roll over. Clearance is gained from larger tires not the lift, the lift offers more articulation. Your tires should be on top of the obstacles and thus improve your ground clearance, you should not rely upon 3 more inches of lift to do that for you. Skill over hardware is how you handle things, until the hardware becomes absolutely necessary. 6 inch lifts are for posers and extreme wheelers who want to run 35+ tires which in themselves force you to modify the FJ even more just to run the large tires. Stick with the 3inch lift and the 33's.