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Old 04-30-2008, 02:29 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Ok fellas...help me understand the Lower control arm, rear upper link, sway bar links

ok fellas, help me understand these things, what there purpose is and if I should swap them out.....here is the low down.

I just lifted my FJ(OME) heavy front, medium rear.....so it has about a 3 in lift going. I have seen that the lower control arms get bent up pretty good offroading(and I will be swapping these out for sure) but dont really understand what the DO?

also that goes for the rear upper links.....what do these do? and have seen where a member makes these....do I really need to swap them out? if so is it something I can do on my own in my garage?


last question sway bar links(jesus how many links does this FJ have? lol) ok I know there is a pair in the rear....and a pair upfront, I know that adding sway bar collars to the aluminum rings or in place of them will help to keep the front links from breaking(so I think I will just do that) but the rear links? do these need to be swapped out? and what do they do exactly?


sorry if this is all newbie questions but my brain is a sponge and I am trying to soak it all up......its all very confusing to me and I dont know if I really need to spend the money to upgrade some of this stuff....or just keep it stock

any help or insight would be MUCH appreciated....I thank you
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Old 04-30-2008, 07:43 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Ok fellas...help me understand the Lower control arm, rear upper link, sway bar l

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survivorman previously said: View Post
ok fellas, help me understand these things, what there purpose is and if I should swap them out.....here is the low down.

I just lifted my FJ(OME) heavy front, medium rear.....so it has about a 3 in lift going. I have seen that the lower control arms get bent up pretty good offroading(and I will be swapping these out for sure) but dont really understand what the DO?

also that goes for the rear upper links.....what do these do? and have seen where a member makes these....do I really need to swap them out? if so is it something I can do on my own in my garage?


last question sway bar links(jesus how many links does this FJ have? lol) ok I know there is a pair in the rear....and a pair upfront, I know that adding sway bar collars to the aluminum rings or in place of them will help to keep the front links from breaking(so I think I will just do that) but the rear links? do these need to be swapped out? and what do they do exactly?


sorry if this is all newbie questions but my brain is a sponge and I am trying to soak it all up......its all very confusing to me and I dont know if I really need to spend the money to upgrade some of this stuff....or just keep it stock

any help or insight would be MUCH appreciated....I thank you
The rear upper and lower links and the panhard bar locate the rearend and keep it in position throughout it's suspension travel. The factory lower link are made out of a mild steel tubing that is only .090" thick. Being that thin of material and the fact that they are hung very low on the vechicle makes them the most vulnerable piece of your suspension to damage. If you bend your lower link your rearend will no longer be centered in the chassis. Also the wheel will no longer be centered in the wheelwell and the vechicle will dogtrack down the road. Of coarse if the link breaks you then need a tow truck. The lower links are the first things to beef up on your undercarriage IMO. I'll try to answer the other two questions in a bit. (dinner time)

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Old 04-30-2008, 09:04 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Ok fellas...help me understand the Lower control arm, rear upper link, sway bar l

Quote:
survivorman previously said: View Post
ok fellas, help me understand these things, what there purpose is and if I should swap them out.....here is the low down.

I just lifted my FJ(OME) heavy front, medium rear.....so it has about a 3 in lift going. I have seen that the lower control arms get bent up pretty good offroading(and I will be swapping these out for sure) but dont really understand what the DO?

also that goes for the rear upper links.....what do these do? and have seen where a member makes these....do I really need to swap them out? if so is it something I can do on my own in my garage?


last question sway bar links(jesus how many links does this FJ have? lol) ok I know there is a pair in the rear....and a pair upfront, I know that adding sway bar collars to the aluminum rings or in place of them will help to keep the front links from breaking(so I think I will just do that) but the rear links? do these need to be swapped out? and what do they do exactly?


sorry if this is all newbie questions but my brain is a sponge and I am trying to soak it all up......its all very confusing to me and I dont know if I really need to spend the money to upgrade some of this stuff....or just keep it stock

any help or insight would be MUCH appreciated....I thank you
The rear upper links work in conjunction with the lowers to connect the rearend to the chassis and to keep the rearend from wrapping up or twisting when applying power or brakes. They are not as high on the priority list to replace as the lowers. The factory pieces look very weak but I have never actually seen one broken. (yet)
The main reason for replacing the uppers is to be able to adjust your pinion angle back to factory specs when lifts above 2" are installed. Most companies 3" suspension kits only give 2" in the rear and 3" in the front to try and level the vechicle. The factory upper links will still function properly at that height. When you go higher in the rear you need to rotate your pinion angle back up to eliminate driveline vibrations and that is where the adjustable upper links work so well.
The sway bar links are infamous for breaking and bending. Having heavy duty sway bar links is not the complete answer. I think everybody has realized that the factory sway bar collars that center the sway bar and keep it from binding the links loosen up and move and that allows the links to fail. A good sway bar collar eliminates that problem. The rear sway bar links are very short from the factory and when lifting the FJ they are now operating at a severe angle that promotes failure in these too. We will have new adjustable rear links out shortly to cure this problem.

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Old 04-30-2008, 09:20 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Ok fellas...help me understand the Lower control arm, rear upper link, sway bar l

An excellent technical dissertation there Jon, kudos to you!
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Old 04-30-2008, 09:52 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Re: Ok fellas...help me understand the Lower control arm, rear upper link, sway bar l

Great info, thanks JonB!
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Old 04-30-2008, 10:09 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Re: Ok fellas...help me understand the Lower control arm, rear upper link, sway bar l

thank god someone asked this question. Now what do i need to buy in order to beef all this stuff up
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Old 04-30-2008, 10:13 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Re: Ok fellas...help me understand the Lower control arm, rear upper link, sway bar l

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An excellent technical dissertation there Jon, kudos to you!
Now if someone could teach me how to post pictures we'll be even. LOL

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Old 04-30-2008, 10:16 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Re: Ok fellas...help me understand the Lower control arm, rear upper link, sway bar l

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thank god someone asked this question. Now what do i need to buy in order to beef all this stuff up
This one's easy to answer, Call All-Pro tomorrow and they'll hook you up. The lower links are one of the items going on the May sale!

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Old 04-30-2008, 10:21 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Re: Ok fellas...help me understand the Lower control arm, rear upper link, sway bar l

The thing I think most people don't realize is that the axles physically have to push the car (and pull - in the case of the front).

What you should imagine is that the axle(s) is/are like the horse(s) and the rest of the vehicle is the cart. People tend to imagine that the engine is physically pulling the vehicle through the engine mounts, but it's not.

Try to imagine building a toy out of a little car axle mounted under a kid's red wagon. You could sit in the wagon with a cordless drill, reach around underneth and plug it into the axle where the driveshaft is supposed to attach, and you could power the wagon forward by triggering the drill. It might try to twist the drill out of your hand, but you wouldn't feel like you were pushing the wagon. The drill would be like the engine. The axle is is doing the pushing.

When you drive a car, the engine twists the driveshaft, the driveshaft twists the gears in the differential housing in the center of the axle system, and this transmits the twisting force (torque) out laterally into the axle shafts which turn the wheels relative to the axle housing.

As the wheels try to roll forward, there's an equal and opposite force on the axle housing trying to twist it back. It's just like when you use a hand drill. If the bit gets stuck in the work, either the work is going to start to whip around one direction (equivalent to the wheel rolling forward) or else the drill is going to crank out of your hand the opposite direction (equivalent to the opposing torque on the axle housing).

The way that the driveshaft and axle are connected allows for a small amount of relative movement between them, but this needs to be carefully controlled. When the axle housing trys to twist backward, this is called "axle wrap". Too much can start to strain the driveshaft components, specifically the universal joints, and these can fail.

Trucks with leaf spring suspension are more susceptible to axle wrap than linked suspension designs. This is because the leafspring can bend in a way that allows the axle housing to twist in place. It's especially true when lift is added by replacing the spring from under the axle to over the axle - the so called "spring-over-axle" modification. Interestingly, a truck with leaf springs is actually getting "pushed" by force being applied from the axle to the leaf spring and from the leaf spring to the frame. The spring is physically pushing the truck!

The unwanted degrees of flex that are inherent in a leaf spring design suspension can be resolved by using a linked suspension design. "Links" are rigid mechanical struts which attach with pivoting joints and "constrain motion". Our FJ Cruisers use a "4-link and panhard bar" rear suspension design. The engineers reading this will no doubt be quick to point out that the vehicle and the axle are also "links", rendering this actually a 7 link physical system... but they're nerds.

The concept of a 4 link suspension is that there are 2 lower and two upper links which attach to the axle at low points and high points respectively. As the wheels turn FORWARD, the axle housing tries to twist BACKWARD, but this is constrained by the fixation points of the links. As the twisting force is applied, it pushes FORWARD at the bottom on the lower links and it pulls BACKWARD on the upper links. It's a lot like a person standing up on a water ski. The skier leans back, pulling on the rope, pushing forward with their feet on the ski.

In the linked suspension system, these 2 opposing structures constrain against axle wrap. The pressure applied to the lower links is applied forward from the axle up into the frame of the vehicle. This is the pushing force that moves the vehicle forward. The lower links are physically pushing the car.

The beauty of the linked suspension system is that it allows for a lot of movement of the axle up and down (called "ride travel") and in a one-side-up one-side-down twisting motion (called flex) while keeping the driveshaft aligned with the pinion shaft (the part of the gear in the differential housing that the drive shaft physically torques) within specifications.

Our 4 link suspensions, however, have a very poor amount of lateral stabilzation by themselves. The upper and lower links would be perfectly happy to swing side to side. This would be bad, so an additional link is added which goes side to side. That's the "panhard bar".

Links used in this kind of automotive application are typically attached at their ends using a type of spherical bearing joint of which there are several designs. The genius of the spherical rod end is that it can only transmit a push or a pull. This means that the axle and frame, by themselves, can only impose a force perfectly in-line within the link material. Within the allowable movement of the bearings, there is no bending force that gets applied to the link.

However, this link is fairly close to the ground. It's not unlikely that it becomes a contact point in driving over big rocks. It can become a ski. It can even get to the point where the link is physically resting on a rock, while the vehicle's weight is applied to the ends. That will surely bend the stock links! Once you've bent one, you need to replace it. Repairing it by straightening would not be safe because the metal has been altered. Breaking a link is a disaster that can take out other mechanical components as collateral damage.

Replacing these links with something that has enough strength to be a weight bearing surface, and enough material resillience to do this over and over is a GREAT idea if you plan to drive on trails.

I'm sorry if that was too much information or too oversimplified. I was trying to explain this in a way that would be useful to someone with a minimum amount of background.

...my 2 cents ...for free.
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Old 04-30-2008, 10:31 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Re: Ok fellas...help me understand the Lower control arm, rear upper link, sway bar l

Great explanation Jon.

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