I Guess because of COST that something has not been done, but for me, i will give it a shot... here is my Idea, using some used axle shaft splined ends and a hub/sleeve of some sort... Cut the swal bar, weld the axle stubs on and add a quik pull pin thru them to hold the sleev in the position you want...
I Guess because of COST that something has not been done, but for me, i will give it a shot... here is my Idea, using some used axle shaft splined ends and a hub/sleeve of some sort... Cut the swal bar, weld the axle stubs on and add a quik pull pin thru them to hold the sleev in the position you want...
Hey... Worth A Shot !!!!
I thought I saw an idea like this, for some vehicle, years ago in the back of a magazine.
I Guess because of COST that something has not been done, but for me, i will give it a shot... here is my Idea, using some used axle shaft splined ends and a hub/sleeve of some sort... Cut the swal bar, weld the axle stubs on and add a quik pull pin thru them to hold the sleev in the position you want...
Hey... Worth A Shot !!!!
Well let me know if you get anywhere with this. Might have to call it the "Bandi Disco" to go with your "Bandi Mount".
I have a bunch of Halfshaft from my brothers Race Bug at my House, I will prolly use
these as for the testing, It will have to wait till I get the "Bandi Mounts" done tho....
Can't hurt to try, The only thing I got to loose is my Sway Bar Ehhh....
The fronts are a little tricky, you can not preload the springs or you will not get them between the upper and lower mounts, even with the springs unloaded, the pressure in the shock still made it a little fun to line-up with the mount holes...
I only had 2-finger coil compressors which were too big for these springs, they were made for car struts and regular coils... What would work is single-finger coil compressor with only one finger on top and one on the bottom, which would also allow you to compress the spring after they are installed...
I used the porter-power setup and it took me less then 5 miniutes (see image below)... worked great for the front, and for the rear... on the front, I positioned it over the top mount bolt and used a finger extension on the spring end and just pumped it down till I could turn it freely... On ther rear I just position the PP between the axle and the frame an pushed the axle down enough to fit my spacers in(same would work for new springs) doing one side at a time. I did not haveto detach anything but the shocks which were being replaced anyway... I did not detach the track bar or any of the links... (see picture below)...
When mounting the back reservor, decide if you want it on the shock or on the frame (i put mine on the shock facing forward, but it hit the emergency brake cable when articulating, now I have it about 45 degrees off facing rear to clera everthing, but I will be moving it to mount it on the frame soon...
One last note, be careful with the front/rear reservor stainless steel line placement, make sure it clears everything and does not rub during articulation...
Quote:
bandi previously said:
I used a hydrolic porter-power to press them down and then i was able to turn the adjuster by hand freely...
Quote:
bandi previously said:
In the Back, You Only have to disconnect the Shocks, as long as you can push the axle down somehow (protapower or a bottle jack)...
The front, you will need to unbolt the sway bar from the frame and the link arm, and also pop he tierod end joint, so that you can get the springs out and then new ones in...
Bandi, I may have to copy you on your tire setup. I was looking for a second set of Off Road tires that fit stock steel rims and saw the LTB Super Swampers. Then I remembered your thread, same setup. I thought they would fit, but I wasn't sure. Interco's site says the rim size should be 17x8 and the stock steelies are 17x7.5 I believe, but they worked for you. Thanks for all the info. Any issues besides balancing I should be aware of?
__________________
Vice President of TTR
2007 Supercharged Dune Beige 4x4 FJC
1972 Freeborn Red FJ40 4x4
Bandi, I may have to copy you on your tire setup. I was looking for a second set of Off Road tires that fit stock steel rims and saw the LTB Super Swampers. Then I remembered your thread, same setup. I thought they would fit, but I wasn't sure. Interco's site says the rim size should be 17x8 and the stock steelies are 17x7.5 I believe, but they worked for you. Thanks for all the info. Any issues besides balancing I should be aware of?
No-issues other than what I wrote up on here before (see below)... But I did take the tires to the tire shop that did my 38" swampers on my fords, and there are allot less weight on them now... The place I got them mounted the first time only had car weights too.... They only have 2 weights on them now... And with the 10.5 wodth... i still have not cut the body mount yet, no rubbing at all...
Everyone has there own taste and performance wishes when it comes to their tires... I have never had a tire outperform my swampers... Yes, swamper take allot of weights to balance them, but they are also very thick and heavy, other than the old Ground Hawgs, you will not find a tire with deeper or larger lugs on it, and I did notice that Interco sells Ground Hawgs still...
There are some points needed to be know about the tires handling and setup...
They are noisy, but I like that roar sound myself... it gets people to take notice and not pull out in front of you...
They should not be run on rims where you can't have weights on the inside and outside, this way they CAN be balanced properly...
They also need to be driven about a mile to warm them up to soften the hard rubber so they will drive smooth... the hard rubber is needed for the very large lugs they have...
You front end alignment should be set as close to 0 degrees positive camber while still keeping some positive caster... This way the tire rides on the center zigzag lugs and not the ones on the side that will throw you around... Also of course, the toe should be set even, or just a hair in if you have warnout parts in the front of your rig...
The Air pressure should be set so that the outside lugs are just a hair off the road surface, again, so you ride on the center, not the outside lugs... I am running 45 PSI in Mine for on-road...
Anyway... I have ran Groung Hawg's, General MT's, Toyo's CUT, BFG MT's, TSL SX's, TSL LTB's... and the TSL's lasted the longest, in fact, I had 38's balanced on steels on my 81 F-150, and on my 87 F-250, and never had to buy another set for either of those vehicles... I also could run 80mph and still be smooth... I ran the Generals, Toyo's & the BFG,s on my 88 4Runner, they all wore real quick... My brother-in-law has had 35x15.5 TSL SX's on his F-150 for 6 years now, I would say he still has another year to go with them at least... what I am saying, is if the front is not set up right for the TSL's or any other tire, you will not get the performance you are looking for... TSL's take a little more work to have them set right, but their performance is Awsome...
OK... Now... I was not going to even type anything on this.. but, I just wanted people to know the truth behind the Interco TSL's and how to get good use from them and set things up properly from someone who has had them since the 80's, and not from someone's 2 mile drive on them...
Like I said above... there are things that you want to know about them before you buy and not be shocked afterwards...
Well... Thanks to Jim_D here on the Forum... I Have the OME 896 Rear Springs installed tonight,
took about 20 miniutes after I got home from work...
My FJC was Had the 2" Daystar Coil Spacers in the rear with the stock coils when I first got the
lift, due to springs not being available at that time...
But, With my OffRoad Container (straps, shackles, First Aid, Extinglisher.. Etc...) in the back and
plus the OffROading, the Springs had settled from where the FJC was level to where I was sagging
in the rear over an Inch... With the new Springs from Jim_D, I am 1" taller in the back now and
which is perfect for when I need to do towing...
Jim_D did not like the ride of the springs, too stiff and bouncy... I must say, there is a big
difference between them in size of the steel, and the ride was bouncy compared to the stocks,
BUT, I Cranked my rear ALL-PRO Shocts 3 more clicks and it felt like stock again...
Well, I Ordered in the Spidertrax 1 1/4" Wheel Spacers to add trax-width to my FJC...
They Shipped thru UPS, Now I need to See When they Come in if They do what i want...
Well, I Ordered in the Spidertrax 1 1/4" Wheel Spacers to add trax-width to my FJC...
They Shipped thru UPS, Now I need to See When they Come in if They do what i want...
Picts to Come...
Leroy...
Bandi, why are you putting spacers on? They are notorious for getting loose and causing wheel failure. Just remember it only takes 1/16" of gap between the hub and the wheel to cause it to sheer off under load. I would be careful with these.
__________________
Vice President of TTR
2007 Supercharged Dune Beige 4x4 FJC
1972 Freeborn Red FJ40 4x4
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