Do you have different skids than stock? If so dont they have an access hole to get to the drain plug? Why not just get the Fumoto valve and drain your engine with the flick of a lever? I dont have one of these valves but I changed my oil the other day and it could not have been easier.
That machine looks like it could end up making a mess with all the oil filled tubes and such.
The skids I have doesn't have a drain hole. To do a oil change, I need to remove the skids (60lbs). The skids are super strong, but also very tight fitting. It takes a while of fiddling to get it to line up just right. Valves would've been nice, but no drain holes makes it difficult.
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Walker Evans adj. F&R reservoir shocks. Pro Links. AP F&R bumpers. Demello skid. Mile Marker SE9500C. Viking Trail Line. Super Swamper LTB 34s on Tacoma wheels. 305 MTR on Wheelers wheels. Trail Gear Sliders, Aeroflow, Lightforce Blitz 240, Powertank 10lb, Hi-Lift, Jack Mate, Pull-Pal.
The skids I have doesn't have a drain hole. To do a oil change, I need to remove the skids (60lbs). The skids are super strong, but also very tight fitting. It takes a while of fiddling to get it to line up just right. Valves would've been nice, but no drain holes makes it difficult.
Tony, Could you just drill a hole in the skid plate or would that compromise the structural integrity of the skid?
I've used a similar one (that I can't remember the maker right now) without any problems on several vehicles. Used on a Contour w/o problems (one of the worst drain locations ever; dumps oil all over the header pipe); used on 2 BMW race cars that were so low that getting them on ramps wasn't worth the effort. It is not a quick method though as your moving a lot of a viscous fluid through a small tube.
Neil
Supposedly this unit works pretty quickly if the vehicle is warm and oil filter is removed.
Quote:
TCao previously said:
Tony:
I would not recommend getting one of these since you'd need to drop the skip plate anyway to inspect and lube the front propeller shaft and front differential (if you have 4WD) when doing an engine oil change.
Thong
Good point Thong. I've looked at them and they still look pretty good so far. Maybe I'm not wheeling enough.
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jayman previously said:
BMW and MB are currently using the Mityvac method
More dealers are moving to this method as well.
Quote:
TIT-CRUISER previously said:
Tony, Could you just drill a hole in the skid plate or would that compromise the structural integrity of the skid?
If I were to drill a hole it'll have to be a pretty big hole. The 3/8th thick skids will probably kill my drill too . If the hole isn't big enough, oil will get all over the place. Demello doesn't recommend drilling a hole.
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Sandoo Blue FJ
Walker Evans adj. F&R reservoir shocks. Pro Links. AP F&R bumpers. Demello skid. Mile Marker SE9500C. Viking Trail Line. Super Swamper LTB 34s on Tacoma wheels. 305 MTR on Wheelers wheels. Trail Gear Sliders, Aeroflow, Lightforce Blitz 240, Powertank 10lb, Hi-Lift, Jack Mate, Pull-Pal.
OK you're going to have to take one for the team on this one. After you buy it and drain the oil out of your rig with it, remove the skid one last time and pull the drain plug. Let us know if any more oil drains out. If NO oil comes out we'll all be in line to buy one. Good Luck! I really hope it works out for you. .
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Re: Topside Oil Changer
Quote:
ridgerunner2021 previously said:
OK you're going to have to take one for the team on this one. After you buy it and drain the oil out of your rig with it, remove the skid one last time and pull the drain plug. Let us know if any more oil drains out. If NO oil comes out we'll all be in line to buy one. Good Luck! I really hope it works out for you. .
now thats a great idea!
i know it is a PITA to pull the skids for every oil change but as Thong said, you need to check and lube everything under the truck during every oil change. it might not look like it needs to be lubed right now, but it will extend the life of your u-joints in the long run.
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I'm thinking about getting a topsider to make my oil change easier. I hear you say "Why, the FJ is the easiest to do oil change.." My skids are in the way and it's a big hassle to have to change it out and put it back on. That's one reason.
Before I came here, I've done quite a bit of research and found a tremendous support for topsiders. One common concern is whether a topsider can get all the oil out. It looks like there have been plenty of tests done to show that there are no discrepancies between using a topsider and the traditional unplug the drain method. Sludge shouldn't be a concern with oil viscosity. Actually since topsiders are easiest to use when engine is warm, it might actually get more oil out then doing a traditional oil change with a cold engine.
As I'm on the verge of doing this, is there a reason I shouldn't? Any objective reasons as to why I shouldn't do it? I would really appreciate hard evidence or support for your argument.
Thanks.
Boat owners (and mechanics) have used these for years - you can't get under the inboard boat motor unless you drill a hole in the hull. They work great, but as someone posted here said, it can be slower than the bottom drain plug. So what? It's so easy and you get 0 mess. Since our oil filters are on top, too, you can change your oil in a muddy field with a top sider. (ok, who'd want to?) But have no fear, I used one for years and it gets all the oil out. The only thing I read that made it necessary to get under the truck would be to lube the front joints if you have 4wd. Maybe you can reach that with your new skid?
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I bought one. It looks very well built. I got a good deal through West Coast Tools. They had local pick up with no additional fees. Came out to be around $65 after tax. I'll give post a full report when it's time to do the oil change.
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Sandoo Blue FJ
Walker Evans adj. F&R reservoir shocks. Pro Links. AP F&R bumpers. Demello skid. Mile Marker SE9500C. Viking Trail Line. Super Swamper LTB 34s on Tacoma wheels. 305 MTR on Wheelers wheels. Trail Gear Sliders, Aeroflow, Lightforce Blitz 240, Powertank 10lb, Hi-Lift, Jack Mate, Pull-Pal.
The only thing I read that made it necessary to get under the truck would be to lube the front joints if you have 4wd. Maybe you can reach that with your new skid?
No luck getting in to lube it with the skids on. But I won't lube it as often as I'll have to do oil change. This should save some time. I'll know when I actually do one.
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Click for the "Genie" build up
Sandoo Blue FJ
Walker Evans adj. F&R reservoir shocks. Pro Links. AP F&R bumpers. Demello skid. Mile Marker SE9500C. Viking Trail Line. Super Swamper LTB 34s on Tacoma wheels. 305 MTR on Wheelers wheels. Trail Gear Sliders, Aeroflow, Lightforce Blitz 240, Powertank 10lb, Hi-Lift, Jack Mate, Pull-Pal.