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FLAT TOW 6MT (YES it can be done)

63K views 98 replies 38 participants last post by  jcwrench 
#1 ·
Hi all,

I am posting this thread as proof that a 6MT can be flat towed w/o issues. I am in no way telling you to do it(warranty), that is up to you. I don't have warranty and I don't really care if my FJ would have gotten damaged, hence giving it a try.

Maybe some of you recall a member here (Brushrunner Joe) also towed theirs over 36k miles w/o incident. I have personally talked to him on the phone and talking with him gave me the courage to also tow mine.

I am posting video proof that shows the FJ behind my Motorhome. Road speed (65mph). Distance traveled at time video was taken(2276). T-case temp, FJ running to show no xmas lights(minus skid and center lock, Tcase in N). I am also posting pics of the FJ hooked up.
As Joe stated in his thread, the Tcase is to be set in N position and the transmission is best set in 4th.
When making turns while towing, the FJs front wheels barely turn. So binding is minimal if at all, more likely to skid with slow speeds. In the video, you'll see the tightest turn I have done with the FJ. It is hard to see, but in the mirror, you can see the FJ barely turning the front wheels.

To date: I have flat towed the FJC 6MT over 4k miles with the longest tow in one day being from Mt.Rushmore to Janesville, WI (830mi). Longest trip was from Chicago to Yellowstonre to Rushmore and back home.

The tow vehicle 2011 Diesel Pusher aka DogHouse


FJC connected to RV

FJC tow setup


Demco Excali-Bar II tow bar
OK offroad 7/8" shackle mount
shackle to tow bar adapter



The video (please excuse the shaky parts)

Fast forwarded to part that gets interesting
2007 6MT FJC Flat Tow - 2m47s

I only had to splice a single wire for my braking/lighting setup.

Again, this thread is not to say to do it, but more to say it can be done.


UPDATE: Wiring Diagrams and parts needed for Electrical

The Tow brake controller I installed is made by USgear
Depending on your RV type, you'll have less or more work. My Diesel Pusher was prewired, so I am only showing the FJ wiring Diagrams.
http://www.usgear.cc/unified_tow_brake.htm
US GEAR for FJ
http://www.usgear.cc/utb_install/utb_installtvh.htm





I also installed a 2 wire to 3 wire converter.
http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Curt/C56196.html
Which allows me to direct tap into the FJCs lighting system.
This allows for all markers lights to be used and all the turn signal lights. And to our luck, the way the FJ is wired, back feed from the RV does not mess up the ECUs. It is internally protected. I tested this by tearing into my FJ (More then just once, since ownership).


The schematic in full with US gear brake system and FJC page numbers


Supplement to schematic (locations of taps)


For the STOP lights, all you have to do is wire into pin 3 of the STOP RELAY
I choose to drill a hole in my relay and solder the wire in the relay (replace relay for uninstall)


For the turn signals, you can either tap the blue and pink wires located behind the interior fuse panel, directly at the turn relay(other locations too, door jam) or you can pull the relay and directly solder on the relay like I did. (Desolder or cut wires for uninstall)
This image only shows how where I routed my wires to the back side(right), I couldn't get a d700 behind there :(


For the Running lights, all you need to do is Add-A-Fuse in the slot next to the 10amp Tail Fuse.
It is literally parallel connected to the 10amp Tail Fuse and is not connected to anything else (easy uninstall).



For the brake booster power, you can either tap at the master cylinder or in the interior fuse box at the plug. I choose engine room, because it is documented on the USgear site. Also, I didn't look to see if there was another spot. (uninstall by removing diodes and reconnecting orange/black wire)


All wires are routed through here
 

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#81 ·
Re: FLAT TOW Auto

Wow, that's a lot of reading, but great information.

I've got an '07 automatic tranny, and am looking at what it takes to flat tow it behind a C class. Looks like it can be done, and all I should have to do it disconnect the rear-drive shaft while leaving the tranny in park, and the transfer case in "H".

However, it looks like I still need a lot of expensive things to attach the vehicle to the C class. Please let me know if I'm missing anything.

1. Tow bar: I'm looking at using this one
2. Tow bar accessories/kit like these ones
3. Wiring for lights, is this what I need?
4. A way to active the breaks, using something like this.
5. A way to attach the tow bar to the bumper using an adapter like this.
6. An Expedition One Front Bumper.

Thanks!
 
#83 ·
Re: FLAT TOW Auto

Wow, that's a lot of reading, but great information.

I've got an '07 automatic tranny, and am looking at what it takes to flat tow it behind a C class. Looks like it can be done, and all I should have to do it disconnect the rear-drive shaft while leaving the tranny in park, and the transfer case in "H".

However, it looks like I still need a lot of expensive things to attach the vehicle to the C class. Please let me know if I'm missing anything.

1. Tow bar: I'm looking at using this one
Looks good. 6000lbs rating, I personally went with the strongest I could find...10'500lbs rating.
BTW, it cost less, than the one your eying
https://www.amazon.com/Demco-Excali...495586229&sr=8-1&keywords=Demco+Excali-Bar+II
2. Tow bar accessories/kit like these ones
You'll probably get away cheaper just being individual parts
3. Wiring for lights, is this what I need?
I installed this https://www.amazon.com/CURT-56196-2...1495585842&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=curtis+56196 It has a ground wire too, but I guess the one you found should work
4. A way to active the breaks, using something like this.
Looks like the right one, if you want to do exactly the same setup. Other variations are break buddy and over air
5. A way to attach the tow bar to the bumper using an adapter like this.
Yep, that's the one
Should work perfectly fine

Take pics!!!
 
#82 ·
Just did another 450mi trip to Wisconsin and back. All went well. I also decided to swap my tcase and trans oil, since I have not swapped them since starting with flat towing(~5yrs). Tcase oil looked like brand new, clear and no gear shavings. Trans oil was a bit more amber(obviously as it is normally hotter when in operation), but looked great for its age and no gear shavings... so hopefully this info will help someone who is on the fence.
 
#84 ·
Flat Towed my 2014 TTUE MT6 behind the 2013 THOR ACE 30.1 It worked like a champ without any issues. I've towed the FJ 2X for about 400 miles total. The Lucrum Winch Mount Connection that I used is pictured... Thanks SwiCago for the information as I've been wanting to do this for years.
 

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#86 ·
SwiCago
I just completed a trip from Phoenix to Fargo, ND towing my '13 FJ Cruiser MT. I used Blue Ox tow base plates and tow bar. It is set up with the Demco brake assist. I just drove the Cruiser and everything seems to be fine after the trip. What a blast. Thanks SwiCago for all the info.
 
#87 ·
Good video and information! I have a diesel pusher as well and we have flat towed an older manual YJ. I have always liked the FJ and figured it was time to get one. Great rig so far. My 07 is getting a bumper and i will tow it much the way we did the jeep. Really appreciate the time you put into the information here. Thanks a bunch.
 
#88 · (Edited)
Thanks for all the great info SwiCago'.... Just ordered up a 2022 thor 34RB magnitude 4x4 RV (330HP/825torque turbo diesel), and of course I need to town my manual FJ behind it !.... (...annd yes I am already looking for a lift kit ;) )

1152665
 
#94 ·
Looking into this topic today I found a great thread on IH8MUD in which a guy went to some lengths to investigate the hows and the whys behind the MT "No Flat Tow" statement in the owner's manual, and why flat towing an MT FJ can be done safely. Scroll down to post #17.


Short summary: MT in neutral, Transfer Case in H so the Torsen center differential is free to prevent driveline bind.
(and key in the ignition to prevent steering wheel lock)
 
#95 ·
GREAT ADDITION ON THE INFO HERE, Appreciate the input !



ih8mud - Post #17 said:
Here are the results of my test run towing my FJ Cruiser.
This is my opinion of what I did, and it is NOT A RECOMMENDATION.

After extensive studies I confer with Toyota that I too would most definitively publish the FJ Cruiser as not designed to be towed. It is true, it was NOT designed to be towed, but I found that I can tow my manual 6 speed version safely. ..I need to explain that, don’t I?

The problem is, from a manufacturer’s perspective the chances of an owner towing the Cruiser incorrectly is far too likely. They would suffer numerous cases of drive train damage with the owners claiming they towed correctly and would suffer a lightning fast reputation of having a crappy transmission, … (hey, you guys said it could be towed). The answer is to simply state that FJ Cruisers are not designed to be towed. Now, when someone tows one incorrectly they are on their own. This is very wise of Toyota.

Why is it so likely that an owner would tow one incorrectly? Well, in the past we have become accustomed to towing manual transmission 4x4’s with both the diff and the tranny in neutral. This would be disastrous to the drive train of the FJ Crusier… (thus Toyota’s response). Most idiots would read the part that says it can be towed and go do just that… am I right??? .. never bothering to read how because it is a 4x4 that can be towed….. WRONG!!!!

The transfer case differential in the FJ Cruiser is not like those we have used in the past. The transfer differential is locked in HL (high locked), N (neutral), and LL (low locked). This differential is only unlocked (active) when the transfer case’s shift lever is in the H (highway) position. While in the N position the transfer case does not transfer power from the transmission to the drive shafts, BUT the transfer case’s differential is locked, I can not stress this point enough. This means on pavement the gears will bind up if you do not have the transfer case shift lever in the H position… the exact same thing is true while you drive the FJ Cruiser.

I have now towed my manual 6 speed FJ Cruiser for hundreds of miles with zero damage. I am now convinced that the drive train spins and oils just as it would if it were being powered by the engine. While being towed the primary input shaft of the transmission is not spinning but I believe it is being splashed by sling oil from the secondary (output) shaft. Besides, a non spinning shaft does not need to be lubricated my flowing gear grease….. it isn’t doing any work.

I confirmed this oiled theory by stopping and feeling the transfer case, transmission, and rear members often for many miles to see how the heat was handled and spread. During this control group test, they all warmed just the same to the sense of touch as when being powered by the engine. (The pain threshold of touch with the hand is 130°f.) The members never reached a point in which I could not keep my hands on them for several seconds, (the powered and towed results had no recognizable differences). Plus, the transmission warmed from one end to the other and from top to bottom evenly, this can only be done if the oil is being slung by the spinning secondary (output) shaft in gear grease, bathing the entire inside of the transmission.

Clearly, I will flat tow my FJ Cruiser many times in the future and will expect to get slightly less wear (less work load, they are only spinning their own mass) while in tow than while driving the same miles under power.

I do not recommend that anyone tow their FJ Cruiser for the same reasons I believe that Toyota states they are not designed to be towed. You must make your own decision. If you do tow yours you must understand the severe consequences of placing the transfer case in any other than the H position. You get ZERO CHANCES to make a mistake here … not a task to perform with a beer in the other hand.

To my knowledge the only way to tow ANY automatic transmission powered FJ Cruiser is to have “quick disconnects” installed on the drive shafts, or to remove the drive shafts.

Also, realize, in nearly all states you will be required to have a brake away system to lock the brakes if the tow bar separates. …and …in nearly all states you must have a method that will apply the brakes of the FJ Cruiser if your towing vehicle makes a hard stop.

Now, do you blame Toyota for stating that the FJ Cruiser is not designed to be towed???
I most certainly would have done the same!!!!! AND.. it was NOT designed to be towed, or the transfer case would unlock the differential while the shift lever is in the neutral position.


..added in... when being towed with the key in the acc position to unlock steering, the Odometer did not registor milage.
 
#99 ·
Considering getting another Class A and would love to make FeJ a toad. Having a car available without having to rent/buy one would be excellent.
Thank you Swicago for showing us it can be done and how ya did it.
 
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