Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum banner

So Far: M1101, M1102 Trailer Conversion

62K views 52 replies 10 participants last post by  Monkey_Wrench 
#1 ·
So, as you may have read, I picked up a M1101 Military trailer recently, and have been reading tons of stuff and doing tons of stuff since.

Here are some gotcha's that I learned the easy way, or the hard way.

Great advice from some members on how to pick up the truck.

1. Picking Up
- Be prepared to wait forever for a temporary pass to get on FT Hood.
- Have all your documentation together (registration receipt, drivers license, and proof of insurance).
- Bring lots of zip ties and a pair of magnetic 12v lights because the trailer is 24v and a fat military plug that wont fit anything.
- Make sure the surge brake is working, and the parking brakes disengage. Also check the tire/axel temp after a mile or so in case there is a seized bearing etc.
- Make sure you have a pintle hitch.
- I did not have to have an EUC which made it real easy.

2. Getting the right trailer:
- If you bid on one, the difference in cost between a 1998 (mine) and some 2010 models (what others with more experience got) was $100 -$200.
- If you bid on one, some might have the tarp/bows in the back (check photos). These items can be $250-500. Finding these items for sale is hard.

3. Modifications begin with wiring for civilian connector.
- Added a 7 pin civilian adapter, and installed a 7 pin/4pin dual receiver on my FJ. $60 at local Northern Tool.
- Plenty, PLENTY of room to work under the trailer.
- When removing the military plug......I crawled under found the military wires which were labled unbolted the ground wire and cut the wires near the base of the box (See photo). I cut the wires so that the metal tags stayed on the trailer, but the now removed military wire w/plug could be labeled in case I sell it.
- The new 7pin wire with plug connected very easy (green, yellow, brown, white).

4. Modifications continue with changing bulbs to 12v bulbs. Use Sylvania #97 for the 11 small lights, and #1156 for the tail lights. If you understand LED conversions, quality etc. go for it......I had a very hard time getting strait answers from the google.

5. Modifications carry on with the task of: Leveling the trailer to the FJ:
I want to say that I decided to leave the pintle set up and like the idea of surge brakes now that I know what they are.
- The 37" tires are too much, too tall etc. They make the trailer tongue point down considerably so swaping to 8 lug GMC 32" 285x65 R16 helps. I hope to sell the original 37x12.5R16.5 to pay for the 32" wheels.
- A 12" Pintle plate will help level the trailer, but if you are running larger than factory tires (I was) it wont let you open the FJ's rear door or worse yet, does not clear the tire and won't fit. (Anyone up for cutting 1/2" Steel plate?)

Will update as the adventure continues.
 

Attachments

See less See more
1
#2 ·
That's a pretty good list.

If one picks up the trailer at Red River Army Depot, be prepared to get lost on base (I did).

One other thing for the folks in Texas. I was able to get the plates prior to picking up my trailer. I just took the invoice into the tax office, filled out their form, and paid the fee.

If you have to drive some distance to get home it puts your mind at ease that you will not get pulled over for a missing plate.
 
#5 ·
The M1101 has an 8 Lug axle, so staying with the 8 Lugs were the easy way. 6 lugs would have made it easy for sure, and not have to carry a spare for the trailer.
 
#4 · (Edited)
M1101 and M1102 owner here...
Here's my fix on overcoming the high pintle problem.

Putting a gigantic riser on your hitch will only make things flop around and make it unstable. I had a local welding shop weld a 6" extension in mine. Now, with stock suspension (Airlift airbags at 35PSI) and 285 tires, the trailer sits *almost* level, and the tailgate clears.
I plan to put on my lift soon, and that will solve the whole problem.

I plan on continuing to run the HMMWV wheels and tires, as 90% thread tires can be had for $100~$150, plus I do like the runflat rings in there.







Oh, and the later ones (My M1102 is a 2007) has LED marker lights. They'll run on 12 and 24VDC. I had some flicker and get weak, but replacements can be had for about $6 each. I ended up replacing all mine just because.

Another thing to look for on these things, is that the earlier ones need 3 MWOs to be complied with. Make sure yours is, as one of them is a replacement lunette ring assy, replacing the Aluminum one.
 
#6 ·
M1101 and M1102 owner here...
Here's my fix on overcoming the high pintle problem.

Putting a gigantic riser on your hitch will only make things flop around and make it unstable. I had a local welding shop weld a 6" extension in mine. Now, with stock suspension (Airlift airbags at 35PSI) and 285 tires, the trailer sits *almost* level, and the tailgate clears.
I plan to put on my lift soon, and that will solve the whole problem.

I plan on continuing to run the HMMWV wheels and tires, as 90% thread tires can be had for $100~$150, plus I do like the runflat rings in there.



Another thing to look for on these things, is that the earlier ones need 3 MWOs to be complied with. Make sure yours is, as one of them is a replacement lunette ring assy, replacing the Aluminum one.
Your truck looks very level, that is a good option vs. the riser. Can you explain the MWO? Are these required on a state by state basis? I know nothing about them.
 
#16 ·
Fair enough.
The potential is there for it though. You fit a relatively loose fitting receiver on your truck, and add a 12" or whatever riser (arm) to it, and you have a pretty decent amount of lateral movement in the pintle.
Whether it's too much would be different for everyone.
Like you said, YMMV! :wink
 
#15 ·
I plan to use the trailer as a camper, occasional hauling stuff, and to transport my Trailmaster 150 XRS.

One day, when I am done modifying my vehicles I will get a RZR 800 S.
 
#18 ·
Had the weirdest thing happen.

I finished hooking up the 7 pin receiver on the truck, and then connected to the rewired M1101 but nothing works as it should.

1. Only one rear running light is working.
2. Left blinker does nothing.
3. Right Blinker makes all six turn signals flash.
4. Hazzard makes all six turn signals flash.

Anybody got any ideas?

I guess I could see this as an oppty to refresh all new wire, trim and solder clean connections.



Oh, just in case....

Truck wire #22-460 (right turn) = Green on 7pin plug.
Truck wire #22-461 (left turn) = Yellow on 7pin plug.
Truck wire #21 (Taillights) = Brown on 7Pin plug.
Truck wire #90A Ground = White (ground on 7pin plug.
 
#20 · (Edited)
Had the weirdest thing happen.



I finished hooking up the 7 pin receiver on the truck, and then connected to the rewired M1101 but nothing works as it should.



1. Only one rear running light is working.

2. Left blinker does nothing.

3. Right Blinker makes all six turn signals flash.

4. Hazzard makes all six turn signals flash.



Anybody got any ideas?



I guess I could see this as an oppty to refresh all new wire, trim and solder clean connections.







Oh, just in case....



Truck wire #22-460 (right turn) = Green on 7pin plug.

Truck wire #22-461 (left turn) = Yellow on 7pin plug.

Truck wire #21 (Taillights) = Brown on 7Pin plug.

Truck wire #90A Ground = White (ground on 7pin plug.


Trailer needs 4 wires to fully light up, what did you use the other 3 for? What did you do with the ground? Run it to the ground point next to the connector block?
 
#19 ·
Another question:

So on this Federal NHTSA website.... # 6 states that if a trailer is over 80" wide, we are required to have two red lights at the widest point possible. The rule seems to indicate that # 3 (red side markers are not sufficient, and that they cannot be combine with the tail lights.

Did anyone add these lights to your M1101?
 
#22 ·
I ran the new ground plug from the 7 pin to the same point as the original, and left the trailer ground at that point as well.

As far as the other wires on the trailer, I just snipped them off near the bracket that holds them and left them there.
 
#39 ·
Wanted to update with photos of the trailer loaded up.
 

Attachments

#44 ·
I used some steel 16" wheels off a GMC Van. 285x75xR16. Got them for $100ea on CL with brand new tires. Just wish they would have been 6bolt so I could have left off the spare. I am really considering using a new axel to lower it even further.

I did hang a spare using a 10 inch x 1/2 bolt and a cross bar to secure the spare between the axel and the 3 light bar on the rear. Very snug.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top