:bump:

I know there are still production 2006 & 2007s out there that haven't done this mod.

 

Searching these forums is a blast when we have a question and the answer is there in front of you .

I needed to get this done . A couple emails back and forth with
Jason (ruebarb ) and as luck would have it , lived the next town over !!

Ordered the couple parts I needed on Amazon .... and this past Saturday Jason was in my garage installing this set up in my FJ !!
Super informative and talented , he walked me through the install like a professor in front of a class . :rocker:

A northeast storm is on its way tonight , and I'm going to test this hack out .

Thank You Very Much , Jason !!

Keep those wire cutters handy , my friend .... New Radio is on its way !!!

 

Just need a little clarification. In the no-cut ATRAC hack, the blue wire with yellow stripe gets pulled out of the male connector and 12V power is applied to the wire. Pin hole number 11 (which previously held the blue wire with yellow stripe) is left empty when the male connector is snapped back in. According to your pictures, 12V power is supplied to the blue wire with yellow stripe towards the connector side (unlike the no-cut ATRAC approach). In other words, pin 11 on the male connectors side is powered and provides power to female side of the connector (obviously). Both approaches seem to disagree but maybe I'm looking at the pictures wrong. Please clarify if possible. By the way I have an 07 that I purchased in 06.

 

Just need a little clarification.

In the no-cut ATRAC hack, the blue wire with yellow stripe gets pulled out of the male connector and 12V power is applied to the wire. Pin hole number 11 (which previously held the blue wire with yellow stripe) is left empty when the male connector is snapped back in. Correct

According to your pictures, 12V power is supplied to the blue wire with yellow stripe towards the connector side (unlike the no-cut ATRAC approach, they are both applying power in the same direction). In other words, pin 11 on the male connectors side is powered and provides power to female side of the connector (obviously) Other way, power is going female to male. Both approaches seem to disagree but maybe I'm looking at the pictures wrong. Please clarify if possible. By the way I have an 07 that I purchased in 06.

You have the same year model as me. I am applying power towards --> the male side. I am accomplishing this by taping the wire on the back of the female connector, which is dirrectly connected to the male side. The mistake would be cutting the wire on the back of the female side and then applying power to the wire Not Connected to the back of the female connector.

Let me know if this does not clear this up for you

 

Is there a way to have the switch not illuminated for VSC 'on', and illuminated for VSC 'off'?

 

Take out the bulb in the switch.

Edited. Reread. Obviously a dumb answer, on my part.

 

question, how do you get 12v power to the wire? i know it may be dumb, but im lazy and lost

 

You can tap an empty fuse slot on the fuse panel that is on with the ignition.

 

i still need to do this....

 

So is there no way to make the switch turn off vsc when it is lit / on instead of turning it off when the switch is off? (since the switch says vsc off) I would really like to do this but would like the switch to remain in the off position when just driving normally.

 

Nothing simple and I don't believe anyone has done it.

 

Ok, I'm in the middle of this mod but have some questions on the switch wiring (I'm electrically "challenged"). I've got my modified VSC cancel switch ready to go but I am slightly confused on where to hook up ground and power for the switch. Is using the fuse panel best? I know this is basic but I'm trying to the install as clean as possible. Thanks.:cheers:

 

Use an add a fuse mini and connect it to one of the key (blue) fuse slots, you'll need two fuses.

This information has been moved (Click Link) due to the closing of contributing Member’s threads.
For the ground, the bottom of this post show a factory ground bolt.

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...forums/interior-exterior-visual-tech/20183-how-install-heated-wiper-blades.html

 

Sweet! I think I've got it all straight. I'm waiting on a couple more parts and I'll be good to go. I'll post my results and thanks for the excellent write up.

 

hey can u like do a you tube video for me i see what ur talking about some times and lost other times i think the red wires are getting me

 

Read all my responses to comments in this thread, I explained it and reexplained it many times to others. This may help clear it up for you.

 

Thanks for bumping this, I still need to do it and now can easily reference!

 

So to confuse my self even more haha I have a question

Can't I just use a t tap on the blue/ yellow wire on the male side, and run a wire from that to a switch and then from the switch to a 12v (ign on) wire? I'm slightly confused with your wording and your pictures because your pictures only show you connecting your red wire to the blue/yellow wire going into the male connector. What about that cut wire you have sitting there in the pictures unprotected?

 

So to confuse my self even more haha I have a question

Can't I just use a t tap on the blue/ yellow wire on the male side, and run a wire from that to a switch and then from the switch to a 12v (ign on) wire?
If you do this, you will only have the ATRAC & locker hack, I list that as option 1

I'm slightly confused with your wording and your pictures because your pictures only show you connecting your red wire to the blue/yellow wire going into the male connector. What about that cut wire you have sitting there in the pictures unprotected? I likely wrapped some tape around it, it is not stripped, it has no use

See above

 

Thank you for this thread

After a little trial and error I was able to figure what exactly you had done. The mistake I was making was completing the circuit

I can post pics of which wires go where for a no cut install if anyone wants.

 

Post them up, I'm sure it will help someone

 

This is for a non-lighted switch. I used a Diff lock switch from a Tacoma - $5 at a junkyard

Open the fuse box and run a line to a switched (center row) fuse slot (I used a mini "add a fuse" from a local auto parts store) Run this line to the 'power input' of your switch.

I removed the blue/ yellow wire and put some heat shrink over it to prevent it from grounding itself ((Green box)). I took a green/white wire from my switch and placed it in the slot I pulled the blue/yellow wire from ((Red box)). You could cut the blue/yellow wire if you don't have an extra wire to place in the slot.

I then took the green/white wire and attached it to a line connected to the 'power output' of the switch ((white box)).

While the switch is pressed, the truck will run with VSC on and you will be able to use ATRAC with RR Diff Lock.

With the switch depressed the truck will run without VSC

 

I'm sorry Ruebarb, but I'm an electrical idiot. I'm looking at the pic where you're holding the connector for the switch at the dash. Two green wires in the center of the plug are crimped into the blue wire crimp. That red wire goes where? Is that the red wire that has the blue/yellow stripe wire piggybacked? If so, does that red wire run from fuse box, pick up blue/yellow strip wire then run to the switch plug? The black is obviously the ground so what is the third wire running out of the switch plug? does that run to power separately?
I'm sorry for being electrically inclined, some people are better at certain things and electrical and wiring is not my strong suit...
And to clarify what I'm accomplishing with this hack. In 2H and 4H I can hit the switch to turn off the TRACTION control. In 4L switch is on, normal operation with ATRAC working independently of Rear diff lock, switch off ATRAC and rear diff lock can be used simultaneously. Correct? Have you done the on demand rear diff lock hack in addition to this? If so, how does that work out??
Thanks for any help that can be offered...

 

I'm sorry Ruebarb, but I'm an electrical idiot. I'm looking at the pic where you're holding the connector for the switch at the dash. Two green wires in the center of the plug are crimped into the blue wire crimp.I connected the switch light to the power out on the switch, when the switch is "on" power flows through the out wires and also turns on the light That red wire goes where? Is that the red wire that has the blue/yellow stripe wire piggybacked? That red wire with the blue crimp does go to the blue wire with yellow stripe, "power out"If so, does that red wire run from fuse box, pick up blue/yellow strip wire then run to the switch plug? The black is obviously the ground so what is the third wire running out of the switch plug? does that run to power separately? The pin "switch power" is that other red wire with the red crimp, that red wires comes from the fuse box, "power in"
I'm sorry for being electrically inclined, some people are better at certain things and electrical and wiring is not my strong suit... the concept is foreign to most, when I am confused I draw out the entire flow of electricity, all the components and how a wires must go to each and then I can trace the process with my finger. From the fuse box or power source to the switch to the object and finally to the ground, it really does help.
And to clarify what I'm accomplishing with this hack. In 2H and 4H I can hit the switch to turn off the TRACTION control. In 4L switch is on, normal operation with ATRAC working independently of Rear diff lock, switch off ATRAC and rear diff lock can be used simultaneously. Correct? Have you done the on demand rear diff lock hack in addition to this? If so, how does that work out??I have not done the diff on demand hack, you can cause alot of damage in 4H or 2H if you don't know what you are doing. This hack combines the VSC, traction control off switch + atrac & rear diff. Post 2/2007 FJ can already run the atrac & diff together. The switch always stays "on", turn it off to turn off VSC when driving, leave the switch on when in 4w. That simple.
Thanks for any help that can be offered...

This was an abbreviated install,I wasn't covering how to wire a switch in this post, answers are above. I recommend you check out my install guides, it will help with concepts, switches and how it all works. http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/member-build-ups/28524-ruebarbs-sun-fusion.html

 

Re: VSC Switch + ATRAC Hack

I've done the hack for Atrac with rear diff lock as well as the diff lock in any transfer case position. Is there a hack for Atrac in 4h


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Re: VSC Switch + ATRAC Hack

I've done the hack for Atrac with rear diff lock as well as the diff lock in any transfer case position. Is there a hack for Atrac in 4h


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I don't recall seeing anyone making them work together. Atrac is to stop wheel spin with abs when crawling to divert power to the wheels with traction. It is not really helpful with 4H.

 

Re: VSC Switch + ATRAC Hack

Ok cool thanks Rue I have both hacks now and they work great.


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I just did this version of the atrac hack and don't get an atrac light at all also the 3 brake lights won't switch off. I am assuming one has to do with the other but I am stumped. 4low and rear locker still work. If I am correct from what I read you simply run an add a fuse from the middle row(which registers 12v white a multi meter of the fuse box to a switch you then run a wire from the switch to the pin slot that the blue and yellow wire comes from? Seems simple. Any ideas are appreciated.
Thanks

 

You provide 12v fed from the ignition to the blue/yellow wire on the male connector. The switch is only meant to interrupt the 12v. The switch will be "on" for normal road use and "off" when you want to disable VSC on the road. When you go off road or want atrac & the rear diff together, you need to leave the switch "on".

 

Can someone here take a look and see if the ATRAC light on the dash comes on during the bulb check? My ATRAC light is off and I think my bulb may be burned out. Thanks in advance.
:cheers:

 

Sorry to pop this thread up again, but now that Winter is here, I've taken an interest in this mod. I'm not an electronic guru by any stretch, but happy to learn with the proper guidance. I'm not sure how to apply this to my scenario, so I'm hoping someone can chime in to help me out.

I did the Superstar555 'No-cut ATRAC + Rear diff hack' in this thread: NO CUT + REAR DIFF HACK where the male pin 11 was pulled and connected to a 12v supply. How would I add a switch to defeat the VSC in this setup? do I need to reconnect the pin and the add the switch?

Thanks in advance.

 

I did the cut version of the hack but from my understanding if you put an inline switch in on your power source you would be able to discontinue the vsc in 2 wheel drive. I am not 100% on this but the logic of the cut method should be the same and its easy enough to disconnect if you want. Let us know how it works.

 

Thank-you for the reply. Ya I'm not bright enough to know the exact logic behind the mod, but I believe that the ATRAC+DIFF LOCK hack tricks the 4wd into thinking that the diff is always unlocked by supplying 12v to the male pin connector down in the driver's side footwell.

The wire connected to that pin looks like the wire under the hood that is cut in this VSC cancel mod, making me think that I would have to reconnect that pin to the connector if I do this VSC cancel hack under the hood?? If I do that, then I would lose my ATRAC+DIFF LOCK hack because that would take it back to the stock hook-up before I pulled the pin out and supplied it with power.

I feel like I'm overlooking something that's very obvious and simple here??

 

This is all hear say because I did the cut method but I believe if you take the 12 volt source out with out replacing the stock pin you will loose vsc. So with that said you put an inline switch in the 12 volt so when you break the 12 volt current the computer thinks you lost vsc. I could be wrong on this but it would be an easy enough test. I know that when I did mine I cut the wire taped off the stock end and put a 12 volt going into the plug. When I flip the switch it breaks the 12 volt power and turns off VSC (with recent snow it has been a lot of fun) and when I flip the power back on the dash lights go off and vsc works again. Note that if VSC is off atrack won't work.

 

Are you serious? God I hope it's that simple :clap: So to test, if I pull the 12v wire thats tapped into my fuse box, VSC should cancel?

 

That should work. The cut method was that simple.

 

One quick, simple question that I'm sure has been answered somewhere among the posts and pages concerning this hack but for the life of me I can't find it.
By doing the hack (cut or no cut) into the connector behind the driver's side kick panel, will I be able to turn the VSC on and off while the engine is running, unlike the hack under the hood? Yes, No?

Thanks for your help.

 

Re: VSC Switch + ATRAC Hack

With the hack and switch, you are then able to control VSC on demand.
And you'll be able to use A-TRAC and diff lock at the same time which early 07s couldn't do.

 

Re: VSC Switch + ATRAC Hack

With the hack and switch, you are then able to control VSC on demand.
And you'll be able to use A-TRAC and diff lock at the same time which early 07s couldn't do.

Awesome! Thanks, you made up my mind to go ahead with it!

I'll be making a video of it and posting it to our Youtube channel;
Mark & Merri's FJ Cruiser Build