How do I stop a leaky TC

[Old Cruiser]

So some of you know my issues with Marlin right now and my Lefty. I'm trying to make this work till some restitution can be made. Leave this thread for solutions since I only have this TC and need to make it work.

Here is my issues-

I have multiple (yup found another) bolt holes that were tapped for other purposes that now leak when the TC is running. Possible the higher ones from the gear oil spinning around at speed.

Here are the locations




The two offending holes are directly in line with each other (one above the other).

So the original "plug" didnt hold- basically a bolt with metal washer, Teflon taped the threads and RTV.

Need some ideas

I purchased some Copper Based RTV from Permatex (Sensor safe Ultra Copper High Temp RTV Silicone), Oil drain plugs in 1/2" and M12 (Various construction), gear oil (Lucas 80-90) and a pump to get the stuff up in there.

Questions-

Since I'm not looking at ever needing this to be a drain hole or using it- Could I fill the offending hole with a little to act as a plug?

Then with some on the threads- make its a barrier? The goal is to install back the bolt with a rubber washer (Oil drain plug washer) with the RTV.

Or

Should I use only Teflon on the threads? There is a small hole in the back of the milled thread hole thats about 3-4 mils in diameter.

If some of the RTV were to get past the hole would it cause a major issue in the TC?

Does this sound like a workable plan?

Thoughts?

[iwashmycar]

If the bolt is anywhere near the proper size, I dont see why some teflon tape would not stop any leaking....

If you never plan to remove the bolt, i'd go all out... silicone the upper threads and use the washer

I dont understand the small hole thing from either thread

[Old Cruiser]

iwashmycar previously said:

If the bolt is anywhere near the proper size, I dont see why some teflon tape would not stop any leaking....

If you never plan to remove the bolt, i'd go all out... silicone the upper threads and use the washer

I dont understand the small hole thing from either thread

This was my plan. I let it drain last night in hopes it would be easier to work with today. I have some brake cleaner and will clean the threads as best as possible before filling the hole with RTV.

Thanks for the help

[iwashmycar]

Yeah key thing will be a good bond. If you get it clean enough, you should never have a problem with it again! I believe you mentioned you sealed it before since it was leaking.... I am making an assumption you did not clean the living heck out of it first!

[Old Cruiser]

iwashmycar previously said:

Yeah key thing will be a good bond. If you get it clean enough, you should never have a problem with it again! I believe you mentioned you sealed it before since it was leaking.... I am making an assumption you did not clean the living heck out of it first!

That was done at the installer and it held for the break in miles for the diff. No leaks. The ride home from Dallas was long (260 miles of straight highway) so that allowed it to reach a higher temp. Thats why i figured i get the copper based stuff since it was rated to 700 degrees

[Pale Rider]

any type of silicone will not work! even if impervious to oil/gas.
IF you must use this type of sealant I would opt for 1211 by DOW...

Alex, what I have done with several different types of conditions regarding water, oil, gas, and gear lube in the past.

drain the case so there is no oil weeping into threads. take a box rag (white or similar) and soak with brakleen or acetone and thoroughly clean the threaded holes. If you choose to use brakleen and spray directly into the hole with short burst, be sure it all has evaporated so as to not contaminate any new gear lube.

find the thread/pitch size and order these:
if the thread depth is 3/4, then order 1/2 length, if the thread depth is 1", then order 3/4, and so on...
McMaster-Carr

preferably stainless 18-8 is fine.

side note: I have also used aluminum allen socket head pipe plugs in this manner...

clean the set screw/bolt with brakleen or acetone.
Mix up some 2 part epoxy, JB weld is great for this. either one will work, the KWIK WELD or the longer cure time JB will do the job, depending on your desire and location of the bolts.

wipe the set screws/bolts evenly with the JB weld on the threads uniformly, thread into the holes until flush, wipe off any excess epoxy, your done...

IF you EVER NEED to get these out, HIGH heat/torch will break the bond.

This is what I would do if it were my rig...
Good luck buddy!

of course after 24 hours, refill the TC...

***you can see if the far lower right hand corner the RED 1/8 NPT plugs set in JB weld in this exhaust stinger which has exhaust heat and water flow... and those are good until they can be removed, basically for the life of the part... just an example... Buddy!



This is what 1211 is used for:

[Chris The Ogre]

Nice write up Pale Rider!!!

As a plumber I use Teflon tape all the time, the porpoise of it is to keep the treads from galling....not to seal... The seal comes from pitched threads meeting each other....That being said..if I ever get a leak from a joint I usually try to add more tape!

[combatbevo]

Can you spot weld it?

Just sayin'.......

Check the specs on the end-line rotary gears......I'm retarded.........

[Old Cruiser]

Aww crap Pale... You came to the party too late!

I already sealed it with the 1st plan. If it doesn't hold- Ill find out soon enough and remove and start over. I was considering JB weld but its not listed as a sealant that blocks chemicals.

That was my first instinct- funny.

Thanks-OC

[Brazen]

OC, have you heard of Time Serts, kind or like Helicoils only more substancial. I would use that and bolt with an O-ring.