Transmissions / Transfer Cases / Traction AidsThis area is for discussion, questions and problems with the FJ Cruiser's gear train, including topics on A-TRAC, VSC, locking diffs, gear ratios, manual vs. AT, etc.
Re: The "No Cut" A-TRAC + RR DIFF Hack - UPDATED!.
[quote=superstar555;280978]Step #1: To get access to this connector, you must remove the driver's side the dead pedal, sill panel, and the driver's side kick panel.
OK, so I finally started tearing in to the FJ to do this mod, but I need help on a really technical issue - -
How the heck does the dead pedal come out? Does it just pop out? mine offered such resistance, I was afraid I'd break it.
Re: The "No Cut" A-TRAC + RR DIFF Hack - UPDATED!.
[quote=Auphrode;352802]
Quote:
superstar555 previously said:
Step #1: To get access to this connector, you must remove the driver's side the dead pedal, sill panel, and the driver's side kick panel.
OK, so I finally started tearing in to the FJ to do this mod, but I need help on a really technical issue - -
How the heck does the dead pedal come out? Does it just pop out? mine offered such resistance, I was afraid I'd break it.
Thanks -
Carl
Hi Carl,
I did the mod this weekend, and you are correct, the Deadpedal just pops off. There was alot of resistance and I was worried too, but I was able to start getting it loose from the bottom...gave it a decent tug and it came straight out. I would try to avoid pulling it in any direction other than straight at you (don;t pull from the bottom straight up).
I finally did this mod on Saturday, and (not counting the time spent carefully reading everyone's hints, tips, and suggestions) it took about 15 minutes - start to finish!
I used a small, flat bladed carving tool (kind of like a dental pick), and it made releasing the contact from the housing a breeze! While not a perfect fit, a .110" insulated female crimp-on connector seems to make an excellent connection with the "loose" male pin.
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Steve
2007 FJ: Titanium, 6MT, CQ, GY, UP1, C7, Z1. K&N Air Filter, Westin Nerf Bars, Stebel Air Horn, In-Channel Vent Visors, Parrot CK-3100 Bluetooth, Hardwired Radar Detector, Toyota/Garmin GPS, SAS fog lamp kit, Custom shift knobs, ATRAC Hack, SAS GM map light, Heated Multivex mirrors, Running light+turn signal mirror lamp mod, ScanGauge II, 200 PSI on-board air system, Siege Engineering Hammer 4 air horns, rack-mounted halogen back-up lights, VR3 backup camera.
First of all, sorry for my english. I'm a beginer. I want to buy an FJ Cruiser without A-Trac and after install the switch by myself in order to save money. I read that's it's possible. But !...
I want a MANUEL TRANSMITION (with lock rear), and all I read is about automatic transmition (or unfortuneltly many user of the forum don't specify the FJ they have).
So, do the swicht works with the manual transmition ?!
First of all, sorry for my english. I'm a beginer. I want to buy an FJ Cruiser without A-Trac and after install the switch by myself in order to save money. I read that's it's possible. But !...
I want a MANUEL TRANSMITION (with lock rear), and all I read is about automatic transmition (or unfortuneltly many user of the forum don't specify the FJ they have).
So, do the swicht works with the manual transmition ?!
Thank's to all,
Olivier (from France)
yep. works with mine, and i have a manual w/locking rear diff.
edit: sorry, i didnt do the hack, but the atrac switch works with manual transmission.
Kudos to the electrical geniuses who can devise such mods! I'm very grateful whenever I see this kind of info on boards like this, but I'm confused.
I've re-read the no cut instructions and all of the comments in this thread several times and can't figure out exactly how it's completed. I understand that you are freeing the blue/yellow pin #11 from the female side of the LA2 connector, but I'm not sure which fuse slot and which side of the fuse slot is supposed to be tapped into in order to get the keyed 12+ voltage. I can usually figure these things out, but, in this case, I think some additional info or pics would be helpful in this regard for others, who may have the same problem I do in figuring this out.
FWIW, I don't think I'll need this info myself. I seldom drive off road and only bought my FJ to use in the snow. So, I doubt I'll ever need to use ATRAC w/RR Diff Lock together, but, if I do, I think I'll just use the cut & tap method. The instructions and pics are simple and straight forward, and I could do that mod in a flash.
People don't seem to like this approach, because it requires cutting a wire under the hood, but I don't see that as a major problem. It's certainly not invisible but it is easily reversable. All you'd have to do remove the tap & tape up the puncture in the tap'd wire and then reconnect the cut wire w/some solder & shrink wrap. They'd know it was done, but, if everything is working ok and you're not making a warranty claim for some malfunction due to the mod, so what?
Is there any reason to believe that performing and/or reversing the cut & tap would cause any problems entitling Toyota to disclaim the warranty? If so, please advise. Thanks!
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Marty
2007 Titanium Metallic Toyota FJ Cruiser
2006 Driftwood Pearl Toyota Prius Hybrid
2002 Island Blue Ford F250 4x4 7.3L TD SC LB Lariat
2002 Absolutely Red Toyota MR2 Spyder
I did the "No Cut" Atrac and Rear Diff Hack today. Afterwards I took it for a spin and being an old CMOS student I preceded to make a truth table of my options; see attached image. I did not get the benefit of Rear Diff locked in 2hi and 4Hi. I re-read the post again I am not sure why I thought that was some kind of extra benefit. The rear diff light just blinks in 2hi and 4hi no matter how far I drive it around.
Turned my hack switch off in 2hi, lost the ABS and VSC, stood on the gas pedal in a lot of loose gravel and the FJ flung around like General Lee! The 70s are back!
I nosed up a pile of dirt with the hack off and spun down in 2hi. Put it in 4lo and the ATRAC clattered and clawed at the pile. Hit the rear diif switch and the rear wheels slid the front end off the pile with the solid traction. I am confident it works. So far a locking rear diff in Florida has little benefit in sand. Now I am ready for some North GA fun on the rocks!Attachment 12165
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