The "No Cut" A-TRAC + RR DIFF Hack. - Page 13

superstar555 · 05-22-2007, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Swingshiftworker previously said:

Kudos to the electrical geniuses who can devise such mods! I'm very grateful whenever I see this kind of info on boards like this, but I'm confused.

I've re-read the no cut instructions and all of the comments in this thread several times and can't figure out exactly how it's completed. I understand that you are freeing the blue/yellow pin #11 from the female side of the LA2 connector, but I'm not sure which fuse slot and which side of the fuse slot is supposed to be tapped into in order to get the keyed 12+ voltage. I can usually figure these things out, but, in this case, I think some additional info or pics would be helpful in this regard for others, who may have the same problem I do in figuring this out.

FWIW, I don't think I'll need this info myself. I seldom drive off road and only bought my FJ to use in the snow. So, I doubt I'll ever need to use ATRAC w/RR Diff Lock together, but, if I do, I think I'll just use the cut & tap method. The instructions and pics are simple and straight forward, and I could do that mod in a flash.

People don't seem to like this approach, because it requires cutting a wire under the hood, but I don't see that as a major problem. It's certainly not invisible but it is easily reversable. All you'd have to do remove the tap & tape up the puncture in the tap'd wire and then reconnect the cut wire w/some solder & shrink wrap. They'd know it was done, but, if everything is working ok and you're not making a warranty claim for some malfunction due to the mod, so what?

Is there any reason to believe that performing and/or reversing the cut & tap would cause any problems entitling Toyota to disclaim the warranty? If so, please advise. Thanks!

It's pretty easy to figure out which fuses are keyed hot if you have access to a voltmeter. If you don't have a voltmeter...get one. They are cheap and indispensable.

As for the cut-or-not-to-cut argument, I made it very clear that the Alex cut mod is easier and faster than mine. My way offers two advantages that (IMO) make it worth the extra trouble:

1) The ability to COMPLETELY reverse the procedure. If Toyota ever gets pissy about this mod, it can be removed without any evidence that it was ever done.

2) The mod is not exposed to the elements (inside the cab).

Gwagg · 05-22-2007, 02:45 PM

Quote:

Swingshiftworker previously said:

Kudos to the electrical geniuses who can devise such mods! I'm very grateful whenever I see this kind of info on boards like this, but I'm confused.

I've re-read the no cut instructions and all of the comments in this thread several times and can't figure out exactly how it's completed. I understand that you are freeing the blue/yellow pin #11 from the female side of the LA2 connector,

Hmm,
I disconnected the male pin and applied a switched 12volt source to the freed male pin.

I used a wire tap to connect to the crimped end of the pin to get voltage to it and wrapped that in tape.

I got the results I wanted as far as 4wdLO + Atrac & Lock Rear Diff

To get the 12volts to the tapped pin I used a "Add-A-TAP" purchased from Autozone. I unplugged the ignition fuse and added the Add-A-TAP to that location.

Gwagg

**partman** · 05-26-2007, 12:32 PM

I have the newer fj and the manual claims the atrak will disengage if you go over 4mph with the rear dif locked. My question does this mod eliminate this happening,or will it (the mod) not even work on this newer fj.

Ron · 06-01-2007, 05:24 PM

This has been on my to-do list since January and now I've finally Got-it-Done!
Excellent instructions and pics. Thanks superstar555

& Alex

Here are a few comments.

Quote:

superstar555 previously said:

... Once you know which wire you need, gently pry up the primary retainer mechanism on the top of the plug:

http://the895.org/uploader1/uploaded/conn-back2.jpg

Once this is lifted, insert a small, thin, flat blade screwdriver in from the wire side of the connector, in-between the wire and the top of the connector. This should disengage the secondary retaining latch holding the wire in. Pull the pin out of the connector. It should come out easily.

Well... like some others before me, things went smoothly until it came to removing pin 11. I tried several different small flat screwdrivers/devices with no success

until I tried the flattened paper-clip suggestion. Once I finally got it in far enough... the pin slid out easily.

No hiccups after that.

Ray Gates · 06-11-2007, 11:22 AM

Quote:

KmodoD previously said:

This has been on my to-do list since January and now I've finally Got-it-Done!
Excellent instructions and pics. Thanks superstar555

& Alex

Here are a few comments.

Well... like some others before me, things went smoothly until it came to removing pin 11. I tried several different small flat screwdrivers/devices with no success

until I tried the flattened paper-clip suggestion. Once I finally got it in far enough... the pin slid out easily.

No hiccups after that.

06-10-07 Did the no cut method yesterday with some hassel but in the end all went well. First the slot for releasing the male side of the plug needs the screwdriver to be flat or it misses the latch. Otherwise all went well with the instructions. Seems to be working fine in 4lo with both A-trac and R-Diff
lights coming on. For removal of Pin 11 try a very small jewelers flat head
screwdriver to pop the wire out.

norcalvoodoo · 07-02-2007, 01:45 PM

Preformed the not cut atrac/locker hack and while on the Rubicon in murdocks turn leaving the rubicon springs. Got in a predicament on some wet mud and rocks. One spotter noted my front wheels were not turning and asked if my atrac was in. My dash lights indicated both the atrac and rear diff.

Another individual said he could not hear my atrac ticking...I never heard that noise ever. What's up with that?

Anyway took another line and made it thru murdocks turn. I have felt both the atrac and rear diff lock working together. I wonder why it was not working when I need it???