I recently purchased a 2007 with 82000 miles. When I shift from 2wd to 4H the green 4x4 light does not come on at first. After up to 30 minutes it comes on and blinks. It feels like it goes in to 4wd. Any thoughts on this? Thanks in advance!!!
Welcome! Are you sure it actually goes into 4wd? While it is blinking it's not technically supposed to be on. More than likely the previous owner never used the 4wd (I would recommend driving a short distance in 4wd once a month) If this is the case, the 4wd actuator in the front is probably stuck. Look at this thread to at least troubleshoot: http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...differential-actuator-repair-replacement.html
yeah, could be the actuator if 4wd hasn't been used for a while, or somebody ran it through a creek or something ... water and electronics don't get along ... hopefully its because it hasn't been used ...
I have a friend with a Taco and the stealership refused to replace the actuator under warranty for the 4th time, but he ran it through water a lot ...
Blinking only means that the signal has been sent to engage 4wd.
A solid green light indicates that it's in 4wd.... which it sounds like it's NOT doing.
So we have been trying to diagnose what's going on. Yes we are following proper technique shifting into 4H and 4L.
Where are the vacuum lines located under the hood? I will be working on it more tomorrow... the ADD doesn't have any issues so I am going from there. Is there a possibility of the sleeve on the fork being stuck or gummed up from not being used all these years?
There are no vacuum lines to the ADD. Its 100% electric. There is one breather on it that could be confused for a vacuum line though.
And yes, your forks could be "stuck" for several reasons, but I doubt its from being gummed up. Most likely its one of your sensors on the transfer case, corrosion in the ADD on the contacts, or a broken connection to the ADD motor. Good luck troubleshooting. There is a good thread on here written by 1911 that shows the innards of the ADD and also how to replace the ADD if necessary.
ADD is in perfect condition- inside looks brand new, contacts are perfect. My husband is an electrician so he tested it- works great. He manually put slid the fork over (trail fix). Now the truck wont recognize that its in 4 wheel drive and wont shut off traction control. Any idea if that could be a censor on transfer case and which one? We live 200 miles from the nearest dealership and would rather not pay them to trouble shoot this thing anyways. I appreciate all your help with a FJC newbie! We've had two taco's in the past but they were both manuals so we didnt have any issues with the 4wd stuff...
The sensors are a basic open/close circuit and your husband is an electrician, so he should figure it out pretty easily. The hardest part will be accessing the switch to test it.
My husband was digging around looking through everything and found a set of wires coming off the transmission passenger side. Two of them look chewed by a rodent- they are not chewed through- just the coating is, so he is going to be repairing those- anyone have an idea of what that particular wire harness is for. He said its quite a few wires that plug into passenger side of the tranny I have been trying to look through wiring schematics but havent found that one yet...
Here's a failure analysis covering one of these transfer case switches. The analysis covered the low-range sensing switch which enables the rear diff lock, but all these switches are identical internally and can experience the same type of failure. If your 4WD mode-sensing switch doesn't close (<1 ohm) when the transfer case lever is moved to 4H position, the internal swich contacts are probably oil contaminated like the switch shown in the failure analysis.
Remove the switch from the transfer case and firmly rap the end of the plunger against a wood block 50-100 times to try break through any carbonization on the switch contacts. If you can get the switch to "close" reliably, you're probably OK for a while, although the failure may reoccur at some point in the future.
This is a very poor switch design because there isn't any "wiping" motion at the contacts to sweep away contamination or oxidation as the switch opens and closes.
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