Transmissions / Transfer Cases / Traction AidsThis area is for discussion, questions and problems with the FJ Cruiser's gear train, including topics on A-TRAC, VSC, locking diffs, gear ratios, manual vs. AT, etc.
I used to drive a manual. The best part about driving stick is you don't have to put you foot on the brake ( or at least rarely do) when driving stick. Therefore, I have a natural tendency to put it into neutral at lights. so yes. I do.
What he said.
All my cars are manuals except my FJ so when I get to a red light I instinctively put her in neutral. Also, if I just braked really hard stopping for a light or coming off a highway to a light, I like to keep my foot off the brakes.
Every time you do accelerate you do put wear on the gears. This is why transmissions break and clutch pads have to be replaced. It's not much wear and tear shifting in and out of neutral but over time it would probably make a difference. Fuel consumption is the same in either D or N but if anything I would imagine it would be better in D since it's a lower rpm
I believe DoWork is correct. Less fuel is consumed in D than in N even though there is a load when in D. When I was into the turner scene there was a thread on honda-tech where they did an analysis on D vs. N, granted this was on manuals, but it came up that N actually consumed more gas even though there was no load due to the higher idle in N. I'll try and look up the thread.
Nope, keep it in drive while waiting for the lights to turn. The only time I shift is when coming down steep grades, I down shift. Don't wanna ride the brakes.
__________________ 2008 FJ Cruiser 4X4
5-Speed Auto
Black Diamond
Convenience Package 1
Offroad Package
Current Mods
Trail Gear Rock Sliders (Line-X Coated)
Tinted Windows (5% tint)
Gobi Ladder
3" OME Lift Kit
Nope, keep it in drive while waiting for the lights to turn. The only time I shift is when coming down steep grades, I down shift. Don't wanna ride the brakes.
I would rather replace brake pads at $50 than an transmission at $5000.
I shift into N. Turn off the engine. Get out of the truck to save wear and tear on the seats ( I only OPEN the door, though, not close it) I unhook the battery cables. I drain all the oil out and cool it down. I syphon the gas and put it through a 4 stage HEPA filtration process before replacing it. Granted, I only put enough gas in to get me from one station to the next so as not to put too much pressure on the gas tank welds. Airing the tires down is a little time consumming, but the reduced pressure does wonders for the sidewalls. Then, before pulling away again, I taste test all the fluids, including a few of my own.
I know, you may all think I'm crazy for doing this, but I do not do this at EVERY light. Just every 3.14 miles.
I pretty much always shift into neutral at a stop. reasons are, this is fla and the ac is usually on, which means the engine is idle'd up a bit, and I drive with my hands, so to keep from having to hold such firm pressure on the brake, I shift.... My 88 4runner has been doing this for 20 years and I still have not done anything to the transmission. Just another side of the discussion.
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Sun Fusion, 4x4 , At , Custom rock sliders from BudBuilt, TRD exhaust , Gobi stealth roof rack , 4Piaa driving lights ,
ARB w/ Warn 9.5xp, ICON front, OME heavy rear, Light Racing Adj UC arms, Safari snorkel, wet Oakley covers,
Scuba driver mods, A - TRAC hacked, Blacked out,
BFG 285/70/17 km2's on steelies, M-PAC racks, Swiss Army mini map light kit W/scan gaugeII. Full Budz w/tummy tuck and diff skid, Inchworm lefty, Digger U&L rear control arms.
Kenwood 8120 w/camera,and SF fj marker (customized by Duster)