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Re: DFW - Need roof rack caps
Update:
I removed the rack a little while ago, and ended up re-using the OEM bolts. No problem with re-using them to fill the holes, as they don't even come close to contacting the headliner. The dealership was no help when it came to identifying the OEM bolts (pre-rack installation). Apparently, the parts catalog doesn't specify the bolts with certain accuracy. No problem, like I said, I just re-used the bolts from the rack.
I cleaned off the sealant that was formerly there (actually, it was like putty), then used waterproof caulk around the hole. When the bolts were re-tightened, the caulk oozed around the bolt head, so I don't think it'll leak. Once I get the white caps, the look will be complete.
Someone once mentioned that the bolts were easy to strip, but I only had one bolt that was feeling like it was doing so. I just loosened, tightened, and loosened, until that one bolt came out. Seems like when the dealership installed my rack they didn't use too much threadlocker, as the other ones came out easily.
I gotta say, the FJ sure looks different without the rack! I'll find out over the next few days whether removing it makes much difference in MPG and wind noise.
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Dennis' Titanium 'Bird of Prey':
'08 Titanium 4X4; AT; LD; A-Trac; Uniden PC78XLT CB radio & K40 hatch-mounted whip; Yaesu FT-7800R dual-band HAM radio & Comet SSB2 hatch-mounted 1/4 wave antenna Call Sign: KE5WTX; Toyota extra horn mod; no mud flaps; LT285/70/R17 Hankook Dynapro MT tars; 3" Lift (OME 884 front coils & N140S shocks, ToyTech Medium rear coils, OME N71E rear shocks); All-Phase rear diff skid; SCUBA breather mod; Steel sway bar collars; All-Pro rear shock skids and lower link skids; Digger upper and lower rear links; Rasta4x4 skids; Metal Tech step sliders; Mini-Me OEM roof rack
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