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Hello - I was about to purchase Method Double Standards for my 2012 FJ and in the process of doing my homework stumbled across this thread.

A few questions for the experienced:

Does anyone happen to know if this shorter studs/thicker wheel issue discussed here exists with all FJs or just certain years. Is the 2012 affected?

Is the issue that the Double Standard can't be safely mounted or that it can't be mounted at all without mods to studs? What I'm think here is that if they can mount, just not 100% safe then I could probably carefully drive my FJ with the Methods on down to my local 4x4 guy to do the stud mods.

I was planning on having Methods mounted and balanced to tires by an out of state dealer and shipped to me ready to install, but after reading this I want to be clear about what it is I might be getting myself into.

Thanks in advance for any info that can be provided. Mac
 
Well im glad I read and found this one! My studs are short ..Arp studs on my mod list...ill have to count my thread turns but I think I should have around 6 I hope..
Has any one tried reusing stock lug nuts with mine 13' i have a flange and washer lug nuts no taper..
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
I'll be getting the new Method Mesh wheels soon. Instead of cutting down the longer ARP studs, can't I just use longer lug nuts like these I found on ebay? They are 50mm (approx. 2") extended size mag lug nuts similar to the oem nuts.

Extended 50mm toyota oem lug nuts | eBay
Hi,

I used the ARP studs just because I wanted the strongest possible due to running 35's. Probably overkill. Most folks have experienced how easily the stock studs tend to break. Aftermarket studs, such as Dorman, are probably fine. The stock studs are 40mm ( 1.57") long from the end of the stud to the flat of the flange. Aftermarket studs 50mm long should be fine with standard length lug nuts.

On the other hand, if you want to use the ARP studs without cutting them, the longer lug nuts would probably work as well. I ended up cutting off about 1/2" of the ARP studs, but uncut, they are ~2.6" long. After being installed in the hub, and passing through the thickness of the rotor, you are still looking at 1.89" of stud sticking out before you put the wheel on. Just make sure the extended length lug nuts can accomodate 1.8" of stud internally.

If you plan to run wheel locks, make sure you can get a deep set of those as well.

You should also double check the wheels. I think the Methods use an acorn-seat lug nut, not the standard shank style toyota uses...

Good Luck,
Shawn
 
They're going to be too long to run closed lugs and the length makes for a difficult time getting the wheel on.

You'll want to measure and shorten them before pressing in the hub. Cutting them after is possible, but it'll corrode and it's difficult to get a straight cut with them installed.
 
One thing to add about lug studs. If you apply anti-seize or any other lube reduce the torque value by 22% if you torque to factory or wheel manufacturers' specs.
 
Digging this old post up. If you haven't spent the money on the ARP's yet I'd HIGHLY recommend that you do so ASAP! I had the wheel studs fail twice on my FJ and the first time it caused $3,500 in damage and this time around it destroyed my wheel bearing.

From left to right: 1) ARP 2) One of 2 damaged Ichiba studs that were holding the wheel on to the car 3) Ichiba stud that had the shaft shear off 4) OEM. I'd avoid the Ichiba studs at ALL costs! There is a SIGNIFICANT difference in quality of the ARPs compared to the other studs.

The easiest way to install them is by using a press with the rotor to hold the hub in place.
 

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Hi, I used the ARP studs just because I wanted the strongest possible due to running 35's. Probably overkill. Most folks have experienced how easily the stock studs tend to break. Aftermarket studs, such as Dorman, are probably fine. The stock studs are 40mm ( 1.57") long from the end of the stud to the flat of the flange. Aftermarket studs 50mm long should be fine with standard length lug nuts. On the other hand, if you want to use the ARP studs without cutting them, the longer lug nuts would probably work as well. I ended up cutting off about 1/2" of the ARP studs, but uncut, they are ~2.6" long. After being installed in the hub, and passing through the thickness of the rotor, you are still looking at 1.89" of stud sticking out before you put the wheel on. Just make sure the extended length lug nuts can accomodate 1.8" of stud internally. If you plan to run wheel locks, make sure you can get a deep set of those as well. You should also double check the wheels. I think the Methods use an acorn-seat lug nut, not the standard shank style toyota uses... Good Luck, Shawn
I purchased a set ( front and back )of wheel spacers 3" now I went to put them on without checking anything I was kinda cash strapped so once a mo th I would buy another part of the project waiting till I had all pieces of the puzzle when I go to put it together I find out. The whee studs (stock ones) on my 2013 fj cruiser only to find out the stock studs were too short after checking into the length I needed I had 31mm on it and it only grabbed like 2or 3 threads in order to tighten them which was a no go for safety reasons so now I gotta change them out to at least 50 mm for some piece of mind and safety issues I haven't done finished my so called long time project yet but this month is the deadline for my summer looks of my truck I'm hoping everything will work out for me to the best of all involved so please tell me if I have done the correct thing considering how I had to come into doing my projects the way I have to I'm on a fixed income and my bills come first but since this vehicle is my last car forever I can afford to take my time ki da I just want it over and done with so that I may take my place on the streets of my town as one of the WEAPONS OF MASS DESTRUCTION ( I LIVE IN MASSACHUSETTS SO THATS FUNNY ...
 
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