I suspect my info is not at all helpful at this point (no lift), but I figured I'd add it to the list just in case other no-lifters are interested.
I will eventually lift, but it's a ways off; simply for financial reasons.
Since I knew I would only be able to do either a lift or new rims/tires now and then do the other one of those two options in a couple years, I figured the later meant more sense....i.e. if I had gotten a list now, Sandi would only have the flat-tread street tires for the first couple years, and that was just not going to work for me.
1. no lift yet
2. none
3. BFG A/T TA KO 265/75R16)
4. 16" (duh) MB V-Drives with 0 offset.
5. No
6. No*
7.
*Actually, there is a very tiny rub on the black plastic covering, but not enough to even push it back to touch the metal of the body mount when it does happen. Even with some pretty extreme offroading, declines, bouncing, flexing, it's no problem.
steven
Quote:
Brock previously said:
1. 3" front(includes ToyTec billet top mount for coilover, 3" rear;
2. ToyTec 3" Lift using OME Medium coilovers and coils; kept stock shocks and struts due to money being tight. Will replace with OME struts and shocks next year.
3. Nitto Terra Grappler 295/70R17
4. oem Alloy 17" wheels, Toyota
5. No Chop
6. No Rub so far while wheeling
7. Wonderful suspension setup, looks good, works great!
Steven and Brock, thank you guys for this info, I will add it to the spreadsheet as soon as I get a chance in a day or two. This is great info from both of you.
Salutes.
Kal.
Thank you for keeping the spreadsheet current, I reviewed it several times. Nice to find your wheels via search tool. All the best, John
1. >3" front (cranked high), 3" rear.
2. Walker Evans coil over sold by All Pro Offroad; full 3" rear spring with 10" WE shock.
3. Cooper Tire Discoverer STT 33x12.5x17R; corresponding (height not width) in metric size was not availble to purchase.
4. 1.5" spacer plus 4.5 " backspaing on ProComp Rockrawler steel 17" wheels (Spacer added due to brake calipers.) I believe rim model is PCW97-7973. Internally added Staun beadlocks.
5. Chassis chop, recommend trim on any 33".
6. Limited rub only on chassis mount, will trim more. No rub on coil overs, UCAs.
7. I chose ICON upper control arms to complete wheel/suspension package.
__________________
=========
2007 silver FJC, 4x4 MT6, Cooper Disc. STT 33X12.50X17 on RocKrawler steels w/ Staun int. beadlocks, chasse chop, BudBuilt plates, 3" coil overs & 3" rear springs w/ WE adj. shocks, AP rear skids, Sonoran Steel rear links w/ Rubicon Express superflex joints, DR/ICON Al UCAs, SS brake lines, AP bumper w/ custom welded bar, 9.5 XP Warn, TRD exhaust, rack w/ yak.
Last edited by Ti.bullet : 06-18-2008 at 02:38 PM.
Reason: added 4.5" spacing on rim.
Steven and Brock, thank you guys for this info, I will add it to the spreadsheet as soon as I get a chance in a day or two. This is great info from both of you.
Salutes.
Kal.
Hi Kal.
Sorry, but I have a negative edit to report regarding the data in my results.
SHORT VERSION:
For those that do not want to read the entire, long version, I'm sorry, but please count my originally stated config as a 'no-go'.
LONG VERSION:
Everything I said before is still true IF it is only driven around town (usually, obviously slow conditions), and off-road (usually very slow - relatively speaking), and in highway conditions which are both below 65mph AND lacking curves with dips and bumps.
Everything seemed just fine until a trip we took Sandi on over the weekend. We went from the Boulder area to the Avon area and back again on Saturday.
No off-roading all weekend ...but all of a sudden, after the trip (actually noticed it when we stopped for gas half way through the day) there was some crazy rubber damage on both front tires.
This, along with the fact that I just had the tires rotated on Thursday is how I knew for sure it was somehow related to body mount contact.
How so?
Well, I'm no mechanical engineer, but my take is.... In the conditions I laid out above (i.e. around town, off-road, below 65mph AND lacking curves with dips and bumps), the tires rarely (if ever) touched even the plastic cover on the body mount.
However, when we were traveling on a 75pmh highway, going around mountain highway curves with dips and bumps, the forward momentum of the vehicle most likely caused the tires to bump (however slightly) the body mounts.
It might not seem like much if only thinking of it happening momentarily, but with the tire rotating x times per minute (75mph=?rpm), and with a very repair-needy roadway, there were plenty of opportunities for this to happen; and it's not like it just touches a single lug on each bump.....it's dragging the bump all the way around the circumferance of the tire.
[interjection = I took Sandi on a 700 mile trip to Kansas (straight, flat highways) before this in May, and had no such problem]
Interesting thing (and the detail which I have to point out to make sure that those looking at it understand it's not just off-roading damage or whatever) ...the damage is not on the surface of the tire's tread, but on the lower back edge of the outermost lugs photos coming to this post within the hour UPDATE: oops, forgot. I will do this tonight [Friday, 13]).
Why?
Again, I'm no engineer, but it makes sense that the constant pressure from these conditions, though it did not scuff the top surface much, kept compressing the rubber over and over to the point that it started to fall apart at the point of flexing.
I do not feel comfortable discussing the remedy (though there is one, and it includes going ahead with the body mount chop) quite yet, but I will eventually post some version of it here as well.
Update to earlier post....everything is great...no changes in ride height or quality. Edit is found in question 7 below.
1. 3" front and 3" back
2. ToyTec FJ3-FRC (OME front and back with 1/2" billet strut top plate and studs)
3. Nitto Terra Grappler 295x70x17
4. Toyota stock oem Alloy Wheels, 17"
5. No
6. No
7. Light rubbing on passenger front UCA...just enough to keep it shiny and clean but I never hear it rubbing nor can I recreate while sitting stationary. No rubbing on driver side.
__________________ I have a high art, I hurt with cruelty those who would damage me.- Archilochus, 650BC
------
she's a "Brick.......House"
08 FJC, Brick, Auto, Nitto Terra Grapplers (295), ATrac, Locker, Budbuilt skids and sliders, ToyTec 3" lift
84 FJ-60, blue, body lift, BFG AT on oem steelies, Warn Hubs, mostly original
1. 3 inch
2. OME
3. 265/75/16s factory off road package rims.
4. Firestone MT's
5. No chop
6. No rub of course
7. want bigger tires with same rim setup but cant find one.
sorry if i messed up the order.
Sorry for having missed you before, but I just saw your info in time to update the list with the rest of the contributors. Thank you very much for your additions and comments!!
Thank you for keeping the spreadsheet current, I reviewed it several times. Nice to find your wheels via search tool. All the best, John
1. >3" front (cranked high), 3" rear.
2. Walker Evans coil over sold by All Pro Offroad; full 3" rear spring with 10" WE shock.
3. Cooper Tire Discoverer STT 33x12.5x17R; corresponding (height not width) in metric size was not availble to purchase.
4. 1.5" spacer plus 4.5 " backspaing on ProComp Rockrawler steel 17" wheels (Spacer added due to brake calipers.) I believe rim model is PCW97-7973. Internally added Staun beadlocks.
5. Chassis chop, recommend trim on any 33".
6. Limited rub only on chassis mount, will trim more. No rub on coil overs, UCAs.
7. I chose ICON upper control arms to complete wheel/suspension package.
Excellent detail and information that is being added right now to the updated list. Thank you very much for helping all your FJ fellows with this information. Cheers to you Ti.Bullet
Hi Kal.
Sorry, but I have a negative edit to report regarding the data in my results.
SHORT VERSION:
For those that do not want to read the entire, long version, I'm sorry, but please count my originally stated config as a 'no-go'.
LONG VERSION:
Everything I said before is still true IF it is only driven around town (usually, obviously slow conditions), and off-road (usually very slow - relatively speaking), and in highway conditions which are both below 65mph AND lacking curves with dips and bumps.
Everything seemed just fine until a trip we took Sandi on over the weekend. We went from the Boulder area to the Avon area and back again on Saturday.
No off-roading all weekend ...but all of a sudden, after the trip (actually noticed it when we stopped for gas half way through the day) there was some crazy rubber damage on both front tires.
This, along with the fact that I just had the tires rotated on Thursday is how I knew for sure it was somehow related to body mount contact.
How so?
Well, I'm no mechanical engineer, but my take is.... In the conditions I laid out above (i.e. around town, off-road, below 65mph AND lacking curves with dips and bumps), the tires rarely (if ever) touched even the plastic cover on the body mount.
However, when we were traveling on a 75pmh highway, going around mountain highway curves with dips and bumps, the forward momentum of the vehicle most likely caused the tires to bump (however slightly) the body mounts.
It might not seem like much if only thinking of it happening momentarily, but with the tire rotating x times per minute (75mph=?rpm), and with a very repair-needy roadway, there were plenty of opportunities for this to happen; and it's not like it just touches a single lug on each bump.....it's dragging the bump all the way around the circumferance of the tire.
[interjection = I took Sandi on a 700 mile trip to Kansas (straight, flat highways) before this in May, and had no such problem]
Interesting thing (and the detail which I have to point out to make sure that those looking at it understand it's not just off-roading damage or whatever) ...the damage is not on the surface of the tire's tread, but on the lower back edge of the outermost lugs photos coming to this post within the hour UPDATE: oops, forgot. I will do this tonight [Friday, 13]).
Why?
Again, I'm no engineer, but it makes sense that the constant pressure from these conditions, though it did not scuff the top surface much, kept compressing the rubber over and over to the point that it started to fall apart at the point of flexing.
I do not feel comfortable discussing the remedy (though there is one, and it includes going ahead with the body mount chop) quite yet, but I will eventually post some version of it here as well.
steven
Holly molly Steven, this is either very bad luck, or something is wrong with the tire setup. I don't understand how these relative small tires (265/75R16) can cause rubbing? I have bigger tires on on a 17" tires and I don't see this problem. What am I missing?
The info you provide is extensive. I will try my best to distill it into a format that can be added to the list. Please check the updated list on the first post and let me know if I have it right, or if I must edit it further.
I am sorry to hear of your troubles and I hope you fix this soon and get back on the road
Update to earlier post....everything is great...no changes in ride height or quality. Edit is found in question 7 below.
1. 3" front and 3" back
2. ToyTec FJ3-FRC (OME front and back with 1/2" billet strut top plate and studs)
3. Nitto Terra Grappler 295x70x17
4. Toyota stock oem Alloy Wheels, 17"
5. No
6. No
7. Light rubbing on passenger front UCA...just enough to keep it shiny and clean but I never hear it rubbing nor can I recreate while sitting stationary. No rubbing on driver side.
Thanks, info updated now. Future FJers will love you back for this helpful info
1. Stock (F & R)
2. OEM steelies
3. HANKOOK MT DynPro RT03; LT285/70R17; 8 Ply
4. ?
5. No
6. Yes - light rubbing on front flaps
7. Have OME 885/895/N140/N141 kit on order
Finally I get to you jd! Your info is being added to the list now, and that list will be posted up in a few minutes. Your contribution is very much appreciated by all. Cheers and thanks !
) MB V-Drives with 0 offset.
Re: FJ Tire Size Selection Tool
