I'm looking to upgrade to new wheels and I am certain I want beadlocks. I wheel in lots of deep sand, so running very low pressure requires a bead lock.
I'm trying to decide between the walker evans, KMC enduro, Champion Rock Thrasher, Hutichinson rock monster, or the Center Line I.C.E. DOT approved wheel.
Is anyone running any of these wheels? Any others you guys recommend I look into?
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I have not winced nor cried aloud.
Under the bludgeonings of chance
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There is lots of guys on the forum running the WE wheel and I haven't heard any complaints. I know of one guy that has tried the KMC Enduro's (my favorite wheels) and he said they rubbed a little and sent them back and replaced them with the WE's. As for the others I don't think I have seen any one on the forum use them yet. I know Mir has a nice set up with his bead locks. TCao and JDeMello are having OMF make some with the TRD 16" wheels. Look like they will be very nice and a very good way to go.
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I'd like cast aluminum, but if you can convince me of why I should go another way, I'm all ears! The KMC wheels are one of my favorites too. Did your friend have a body mount chop? Do you know what backspacing he used? There must be a way to run them without rub. Don't know if this matters, but I'm leaning toward black or teflon wheels with a red lock ring.
__________________
In the fell clutch of circumstance
I have not winced nor cried aloud.
Under the bludgeonings of chance
My head is bloody, but unbowed.
I'd like cast aluminum, but if you can convince me of why I should go another way, I'm all ears! The KMC wheels are one of my favorites too. Did your friend have a body mount chop? Do you know what backspacing he used? There must be a way to run them without rub. Don't know if this matters, but I'm leaning toward black or teflon wheels with a red lock ring.
Well, forged are stronger than cast....but are usually hella expensive. Alcoa was supposed to partner with Trail Ready to produce forged wheels with a beadlock....but I just checked their site and they don't list it. They were going to sell for $550 a wheel.
The problem with cast wheels (even the WE) are that they can and do break. I've seen 2 broken WEs and they are the thickest casting made for AL beadlocks.
Another option would be to buy Mickey Thompson Classics (forged Alcoas) and then send them into someone like Champion, Trail Ready, etc. to have them converted to beadlock....if you really want forged.
Forged can be hammered back enough to hold air whereas cast will just crack. Think of forged being like steel without the weight.
That said for a true trail rig, steel makes the most sense. For an occassional offroader that won't see really hard use, a cast wheel should be fine for most situations. If you carry a spare (I don't) it should be even less of a concern.
Depending on the tire you choose as well as the pressure you want to run, you may also consider inner and outer beadlocks instead of just the standard outer lock. It's pretty rare to have an inner bead blow, but with certain tires (BFG Reds) it is actually one of the biggest complaints when run under 9 psi.
You could also achieve the same result as inner and outer traditonal 'ring' style beadlocks with internal locks from Staun.....I personally don't care for them as they are really hard to mount and it would be concerned about puncturing the inner liner, but it's an option.
HTH,
Sean
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Thanks man, you really cleared that up for me. The price of forged is what was keeping me back, but I didn't know that much about them. My truck gets a lot of trail use, but not much in the way of rocks... more baja style whoops, sand, water, mud, etc.... There aren't a lot of rocks in MI where I'm located. How are people breaking wheels? Am I at less risk if I'm not on rocks? I'm not sure what tires I'm going to end up running. For now I have 285 Dueler Revo AT , but will upgrade. The Nitto dune grappler may be an option. Anyhow, thanks... I'll look into your suggestions. May have a few questions for you along the way!
__________________
In the fell clutch of circumstance
I have not winced nor cried aloud.
Under the bludgeonings of chance
My head is bloody, but unbowed.
Yes, you are at substantially less risk of breaking a wheel if you don't go near rocks.
The two WE breaks I've seen were where the cast lip broke off the inside bead edge when it contacted the rock or the tire deformed so much that the subsequent impact broke the wheel.....you have to remember, you're running tires in the single digits for air pressure, so they will easily deform enough to allow the wheel to take impacts from very pointed rocks.
Sean
__________________
Do you need a ladder, so you can get the **** over it?
Good to know. I do want to be able to get on rocks in the future when I move back to Montana, so maybe I should look into forged so I don't have to upgrade again. You mentioned internal locks too. What wheels have an internal and external lock ring? Do you know anything about the centerline ICE wheels? They are forged, internal beadlock, and DOT approved. Also very expensive.... but they look pretty cool too.
__________________
In the fell clutch of circumstance
I have not winced nor cried aloud.
Under the bludgeonings of chance
My head is bloody, but unbowed.
I'd like cast aluminum, but if you can convince me of why I should go another way, I'm all ears! The KMC wheels are one of my favorites too. Did your friend have a body mount chop? Do you know what backspacing he used? There must be a way to run them without rub. Don't know if this matters, but I'm leaning toward black or teflon wheels with a red lock ring.
It was me, the backspacing was 4.5 the first set fit with no rubbing but the 17's have a second valve stem (very vunerable placing) and it leaked because they were drilled wrong. The second set didn't have leaks but they rubbed so bad on the calipers that it felt like the breaks were on. I only move a few feet, we called and they told us it was the same back space as the first set. (Bull) I drove the first set over 190 miles with no rubbing. I went with the Walker Evans, no rubbing issues, only one valve stem and it is recessed to minimize possibility of damage, and also they put steel inserts for the beadlock bolts. I used them in Moab this weekend, no problems. I too wanted something different, that is why I tried the KMC Beadlock Enduros, I would not recommend them for the FJ.
Thanks Jaxtoy,
sorry to hear you had so many problems, but glad you are happy now. I guess I'll cross the KMC off my list.
__________________
In the fell clutch of circumstance
I have not winced nor cried aloud.
Under the bludgeonings of chance
My head is bloody, but unbowed.
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