hopefully the bellydoc see's this one. after having traded my 4cyl jeep and getting my fjc, i have always wanted to burn rubber, but i cant seem to do it. is it because of the VSC, or is it that the fjc doesnt have enough hp....please someone help me with this delema, i cant go on living like this without closure....lol
PLENTY of hp to do a burnout. The VSC will defeat it. Search the forums for how to disable it... basically just unplug the connector on the front of the brake master cylinder under the hood.
Use a *slight* amount of braking to sit in place and do a stupid huge burnout...
Do this at your own risk, of course. And have a buddy take pictures.
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-Mike (KE7ULD)
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Something there is that doesn't love a wall, that wants it down...
PLENTY of hp to do a burnout. The VSC will defeat it. Search the forums for how to disable it... basically just unplug the connector on the front of the brake master cylinder under the hood.
Use a *slight* amount of braking to sit in place and do a stupid huge burnout...
Do this at your own risk, of course. And have a buddy take pictures.
Save some reading...Mikes right....disconnect the TWO wire plug from the front of the master cylider.....the vsc light will come on but the rig gains about a million horse power.....and a switch some were along that line and you'll have switchable burnout control
ah well we all have our needs that have to be taken care of! when we were small it was a toy firetruck or bulldozer now all grown up (or are we) it's an FJ.
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Translated: quick! before Jon gets wind of this and posts a long response!!
Hey, as long as we're recommending relatively unadvisable things, one should note that a really GREAT burnout comes from having the rear end spooled up!
If you've got Toyota's rear e-locker, then there's a sensor it depends on in the transfer case.
On the AT, there are 3 switches that port into the top of the transfer case. There are 2 on the driver's side and one on the passenger's. The front one on the driver's side is the one that gets engaged when you shift into 4 low. Once this switch is closed, you are permitted to engage the rear locker on demand.
If you splice a dashboard switch into these wires, you can "permit" yourself to engage the rear locker on demand, even in 2 wheel drive.
If you don't do this, you'll end up just burning one rear tire because of the open differential.
If you don't do this, you'll end up just burning one rear tire because of the open differential.
Not if you're gooooood.
I could get both wheels lit up in my 2.2L 100hp open-diffed GMC Sonoma... you have to roll at maybe 5mph, jam the brakes to push the nose down and lighten the rear while spooling the motor up, lay the power down to light them up, and then re-stab the brakes to hold the front wheels in place. If you can get both of them going, you should be able to keep them both going... the hard part is getting them both to break free in the first place.
Of course that requires some practice to get the timing down... so not only are we talking about inadvisable things, we're talking about doing them repeatedly!
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-Mike (KE7ULD)
Check out my blog thing!
Something there is that doesn't love a wall, that wants it down...
If it gives you a check engine light (CEL), then it takes several restarts to clear the code. Alternately you can unplug the positive terminal of the battery for a few minutes while the codes all clear, but then you have to reset your clock and radio stations.
I hate the stupied CEL. I've got an intermittant one that shows up for a day and then clears itself and it happens almost every week. I'm guessing it's the spooge on the mass air flow sensor, but I have yet to determine it for certain. What freaks me out a little is that if it's on already, it completely defeats my ability to use the CEL to detect something ELSE of perhaps more importance.
If it gives you a check engine light (CEL), then it takes several restarts to clear the code. Alternately you can unplug the positive terminal of the battery for a few minutes while the codes all clear, but then you have to reset your clock and radio stations.
I hate the stupied CEL. I've got an intermittant one that shows up for a day and then clears itself and it happens almost every week. I'm guessing it's the spooge on the mass air flow sensor, but I have yet to determine it for certain. What freaks me out a little is that if it's on already, it completely defeats my ability to use the CEL to detect something ELSE of perhaps more importance.
Have you tried the cleaning technique that Jason did to Larry's MAF?
:rocket 
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