MoabRat previously said:
Boy I sure agree with that. Once you get a TJ up over 4 inches it is really not very streetable. From 2 or 3 inches up you definitly get shake without adjusting control arms and/or doing a slip yoke conversion on the tcase. I am sure interested in the "built to lift it" stuff you said. I think the Pinion is ok with 3 inches or lower on the FJ. What I'm curious about is what you said about the CV angles. Could you explain more what you mean? I've heard so many different and mostly uneducated opinions on the CV joints. I would think the optimum angle would be unflexed and at factory height. Why did Toyota design them for a height that the vehicle is not "supposed" to be at?
The Rubicon doesn't need the SYE like other Jeeps due to the larger T case and spacer that it is designed with. It does however need a new drive shaft ( I did a T\W ) and Adjustable CA's to get the driveline back into shape.
If you go over 5.5" you really should work on a LA kit vs the Short Arms to make it streetable.
Mine is a 4.5"+ and might not get bigger ( any taller and it won't fit in my garage ) but it might also. I intend to 3 link the rear at some point and try to have it to be buildable as I go.
As for the CV angles- the FJ actually has the axles i a negative angle before putting a 3" lift on it that puts them very near horizontal- as moth other IFS vehicles are.
I am not sure if this was intentional but it really seems like they were ready to have the vehicle lifted ( maybe bean counters stopped 33's on it like they have done with the Jeeps).
THe Jeeps spedo is right on if you go from the 31's and swap to 33's like I did.
I understand that the Rubicon was originally designed to take 33's ( and could with the sway attached) - maybe the FJ was also the same? I don't know the answer to this.
3" OME lift- the axle is actually straighter than the pics depicts- it is at a bad angle.