New Magnaflow Shorties w Cats - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum
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post #1 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-07-2018, 07:23 AM Thread Starter
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New Magnaflow Shorties w Cats

Here are the new MagnaFlow short headers with cats attached. Initial look over shows they are not too bad on quality. A quick check of flange straightness showed about .030" bow in both from welding. I have an old heavy table saw from the early 70s that has a cast steel top that is milled so I put a couple of 80 grit sanding disks on it and ran the new manifold across and you can see they aren't flat. Also you can see what I am up against with the old rusted hardware. I've been soaking the old hardware with penetrant for about a week and have had some success in getting a few of these to unscrew, but I am prepared for a big fight to get the rest out when it comes time to finally get the new manifolds installed. Right now I am still gathering parts, I have all new studs, nuts and gaskets. The new manifolds are stainless so we will just have to see how they hold up to heat cycles and cracking. These aren't seamless tubing, which would contribute to potential cracking. I can see that the engine compartment will definitely see higher temps from radiant heat. I might wrap these but that would mean more maintenance because I would not know if they have cracked unless I unwrap them.
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post #2 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-07-2018, 10:22 AM
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Re: New Magnaflow Shorties w Cats

You can have them ceramic coated (inside and out), I've done that on vehicles I've fitted with tubular manifolds and its worked very well on controlling underhood heat and the droning noise which tubular headers sometimes ends up making inside of the cabin. In fact, you can have all of the pipes coated (inside and out) and the mufflers (mufflers get outside, only, obviously).

Wrapping mild steel headers tends to lead to corrosion and early failure, due to salt water "sponge" the wrap provides.

Regarding rusted hardware: easiest simply to blow them away with an oxy acetylene torch, if you've got one, or a nut splitter & cutting wheel are also effective. Wrenches, not so much.

When installing the new fasteners, use lots of copper anti-seize coating, everywhere, for next time (works wonders).

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post #3 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-07-2018, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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Re: New Magnaflow Shorties w Cats

Norm,
Thanks. Yes the hot wrench...I need to find replacement tanks for my oxy/act because I ended my tank rental (live and learn...sigh). These headers are stainless seamed tubing. Thanks for the tip on ceramic coating, I'll have to spend hours online researching that now.....

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You can have them ceramic coated (inside and out), I've done that on vehicles I've fitted with tubular manifolds and its worked very well on controlling underhood heat and the droning noise which tubular headers sometimes ends up making inside of the cabin. In fact, you can have all of the pipes coated (inside and out) and the mufflers (mufflers get outside, only, obviously).

Wrapping mild steel headers tends to lead to corrosion and early failure, due to salt water "sponge" the wrap provides.

Regarding rusted hardware: easiest simply to blow them away with an oxy acetylene torch, if you've got one, or a nut splitter & cutting wheel are also effective. Wrenches, not so much.

When installing the new fasteners, use lots of copper anti-seize coating, everywhere, for next time (works wonders).

N

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post #4 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-07-2018, 12:13 PM
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Re: New Magnaflow Shorties w Cats

It looks like you have some side-access to the rusted nuts. The worst thing you could do would be to break off a stud in the head; that would likely require you to pull the head to EDM the stud out to avoid any possible damage to the head.

After soaking with multiple applications of penetrating oil for a week, apply a conservative amount of torque and see if the nuts will will break loose.

If not, use a length of 3/8" or 1/2" steel rod and a ball-pein hammer and sharply rap on the sides of the nuts 10-15 times, then try the conservative torque again.

Sometimes the nuts will stay locked on the stud and the stud will unscrew from the head. If you can easily get the studs out, replace them all with new parts. There is nothing more frustrating than installing new exhaust plumbing, carefully torquing everything, and having an old stud break two weeks later.

If it appears that the nuts are effectively "welded" to the studs via extensive corrosion, use a nut-splitter to split the nut, and you can unscrew it with your fingers. You can use a socket & long extension to apply the torque to the splitter.

Torching the nut off usually takes the stud with it, and then removing the remaining stud can become the next challenge.

Given the level of corrosion shown in your photos, that engine bay has seen its share of road salt, and I'd be very careful of damaging the studs.
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post #5 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-07-2018, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
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Re: New Magnaflow Shorties w Cats

Thanks for the concern in removing these. Yes, the rust has taken over. I got caught in a snow storm in western PA and they had sprayed magnesium chloride. It has just about ruined my aluminum trailer also. Nasty stuff that is very expensive to repair the damage done by it. I have already had some success removing four of the nuts/studs on one side. I have not attempted to remove anything on the other yet. When you use a torch (well this is how I do it) you heat the stud/nut red hot and let it cool then apply torque. It is a way of shocking the hardware to give up it's position in the head. I don't plan on burning these off, just persuading them with heat. I have all new hardware as mentioned in my above post. So far no broken studs.


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It looks like you have some side-access to the rusted nuts. The worst thing you could do would be to break off a stud in the head; that would likely require you to pull the head to EDM the stud out to avoid any possible damage to the head.

After soaking with multiple applications of penetrating oil for a week, apply a conservative amount of torque and see if the nuts will will break loose.

If not, use a length of 3/8" or 1/2" steel rod and a ball-pein hammer and sharply rap on the sides of the nuts 10-15 times, then try the conservative torque again.

Sometimes the nuts will stay locked on the stud and the stud will unscrew from the head. If you can easily get the studs out, replace them all with new parts. There is nothing more frustrating than installing new exhaust plumbing, carefully torquing everything, and having an old stud break two weeks later.

If it appears that the nuts are effectively "welded" to the studs via extensive corrosion, use a nut-splitter to split the nut, and you can unscrew it with your fingers. You can use a socket & long extension to apply the torque to the splitter.

Torching the nut off usually takes the stud with it, and then removing the remaining stud can become the next challenge.

Given the level of corrosion shown in your photos, that engine bay has seen its share of road salt, and I'd be very careful of damaging the studs.

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post #6 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-07-2018, 01:42 PM
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Re: New Magnaflow Shorties w Cats

Let us know how you come out Major Miner, I’m currently considering this from URD

https://www.urdusa.com/urd-spec-u-ex...ser-2007-2014/


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post #7 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-07-2018, 04:58 PM
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Re: New Magnaflow Shorties w Cats

When using the torch heat the nut until cherry to expand it. You'll heat the stud but it won't get cherry and the nut will come off. Some location are going to be hard to use a torch but it's another tool in your toolbox.


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post #8 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-07-2018, 06:42 PM
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Re: New Magnaflow Shorties w Cats

I have used the torch method many times, but I'm a little leery to recommend it on an open forum for use in an engine bay. I've seen it "go wrong" for others several times when someone only focuses on the tip of the flame, and is not watching something else 8 inches away.

Actually there is no need to heat the nut cherry red to expand it sufficiently to break it loose, even if severely corroded. Brush a little engine oil on it, then heat THE NUT ONLY gradually with a pinpoint propane torch. Every 15 seconds move the flame off the nut, and see how the oil is smoking. As soon as it is REALLY generating white smoke, it is around 500F, is well-expanded, and ready to try removal. Work quickly, and you won't substantially heat up your socket if you dump the nut out as soon as it is off the stud.

Heating the stud any more than the minimum required to remove the nut is a bad idea as these are typically higher tensile strength, heat treated fasteners. Heating them visibly red hot anneals them and substantially softens them.
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post #9 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-07-2018, 06:49 PM
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Re: New Magnaflow Shorties w Cats

You do it your way I do it mine.
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post #10 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-08-2018, 06:45 AM Thread Starter
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Re: New Magnaflow Shorties w Cats

Quote:
ZoSoIV previously said: View Post
Let us know how you come out Major Miner, I’m currently considering this from URD

https://www.urdusa.com/urd-spec-u-ex...ser-2007-2014/
Does that kit have manifolds included? If not you won't need to go through the wonderful experience I am...!

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