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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-30-2017, 02:31 PM
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Re: battery draining fast when cold outside

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Does anyone know why my battery drains fast when the outside temp is below 20 degrees? If I take the car inside the garage it doesn't seem to drain at all and the garage is heated to around 38-40 degrees at temps below 20 outside. The battery is the original Panasonic battery that came with the car back in 2007. Do you think its time for a replacement?
10 years life is excellent and as long as there are no current draw issues with respect to the vehicle, it is time to replace. Lead plates corrode and build up with sulfates, so charging and dissipation are affected along with energy storage. the acid becomes contaminated over time due to ionic transfer with the plate material. The general life of a battery is a function of how much it is discharged to capacity and how often that occurs along with its initial construction and chemistry. so small discharges and the lower frequency for which that happens prolongs the life of a wet type lead-acid battery. GL

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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-30-2017, 04:30 PM
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Re: battery draining fast when cold outside

Ditto on most of that. 13.2-13.8V is standard for a new lead acid battery. 1 load test with a mag pyle tester will probably kill it.


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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-30-2017, 05:46 PM
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Re: battery draining fast when cold outside

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kercha83 previously said: View Post
Does anyone know why my battery drains fast when the outside temp is below 20 degrees? If I take the car inside the garage it doesn't seem to drain at all and the garage is heated to around 38-40 degrees at temps below 20 outside. The battery is the original Panasonic battery that came with the car back in 2007. Do you think its time for a replacement?
Yes it is time, past time!!
The batteries at Toyota are no longer Panasonic batteries, I believe they are Exide.
Those Panasonic batteries are like the energizer bunny- they just keep on going!
That said, get a new battery- you got your money's worth out of this one!!
LOL!!.....GM
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-31-2017, 02:21 PM
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Re: battery draining fast when cold outside

Quote:
kercha83 previously said: View Post
Does anyone know why my battery drains fast when the outside temp is below 20 degrees? If I take the car inside the garage it doesn't seem to drain at all and the garage is heated to around 38-40 degrees at temps below 20 outside. The battery is the original Panasonic battery that came with the car back in 2007. Do you think its time for a replacement?
I Don't believe the cold is the problem, I have had the same problem a month ago when the temps dropped into the 20s, I went out the next day and hit my unlock button on my remote and the horn beep was really quiet, when I got in the vehicle the dome lights were really dim and the radio would not even come on, I left the key on and lifted the hood and I heard the radio come on without touching anythng, I then went to start the vehicle and it cranked really slow but started, then I did some driving around, two days later it did the exact same thing so I replaced the battery. But if the battery was bad it would have ever started to begin with and I was in the same boat after changing the battery but it will always start. I cleaned all terminals even though there was no corrosion to begin with. If the starter is bad will it cause my dome light to be dim ? no. will a bad starter crank real slow like it's not gonna start but it does ?
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-31-2017, 02:52 PM
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Re: battery draining fast when cold outside

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Rikki01 previously said: View Post
I Don't believe the cold is the problem, I have had the same problem a month ago when the temps dropped into the 20s, I went out the next day and hit my unlock button on my remote and the horn beep was really quiet, when I got in the vehicle the dome lights were really dim and the radio would not even come on, I left the key on and lifted the hood and I heard the radio come on without touching anythng, I then went to start the vehicle and it cranked really slow but started, then I did some driving around, two days later it did the exact same thing so I replaced the battery. But if the battery was bad it would have ever started to begin with and I was in the same boat after changing the battery but it will always start. I cleaned all terminals even though there was no corrosion to begin with. If the starter is bad will it cause my dome light to be dim ? no. will a bad starter crank real slow like it's not gonna start but it does ?
What was the CCA of the new battery you put in? Stock batteries are only the bare minimum and when you have to battle the cold sometimes (a LOT of times here) it's not enough CCA's to get the job done.
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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-01-2017, 07:04 AM
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Re: battery draining fast when cold outside

Two important factors with car batteries. CCA cold cranking amps. Buy the highest rating you can afford. Our sienna Toyota 10yr "warranty" battery died after 5 years and was not honored by the warranty. What a scam. Here's the sneaky secret on the warranty. If you didnt buy the vehicle new or have the receipt, there is no warranty. Anyway, the point of this was CCA. The toyota battery only had 550 CCA. I found an Optima battery on jet.com for $155 and it has 750 CCA. The engine spins like a monster now. So even in cold weather, higher CCA will start your motor.

Second is the battery ground wire. Acid leaks from the battery terminals and corrodes the cooper wire under the sheath. You cant see it and you cant clean it. After 8 years, its a good idea to replace it. Of course the oem wires are just big enough to get the job done to save costs. When its time to replace mine, I build it for about $12 in parts from walmart. Buy a generic larger gauge cable long enough to reach your connection points with a swaged terminal end, buy the copper 1/4" eyelet lugs and solder it together. The swaged terminal end prevents acid from reaching the copper wire in the future.

When the ground cable fails, it mimics a bad battery and causes premature battery failure from lack of complete charging.

Link to DIY Ground Wire on our RX300 DIY battery ground cable upgrade for $10 - Club Lexus Forums

Big Three upgrade DIY Upgrading the positive wire isn't necessary but while you are there, why not.
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Last edited by Drcoffee; 02-02-2017 at 04:54 AM.
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-01-2017, 10:21 PM
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Re: battery draining fast when cold outside

That link would certainly come in handy .


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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 04:55 AM
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Re: battery draining fast when cold outside

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That link would certainly come in handy .


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links are in post #16

If your battery isnt charging as well as it should or the starter wont spin as fast as it used to, there is a good chance your battery ground wire is not as conductive as it was when it was new. You can buy a new wire from Lexus on your gold card or upgrade it yourself for about $10 in parts. Here is what my wire looked like.





Battery acid leaks from the battery and migrates down the steel terminal and onto the copper wire. Over time, the acid continues down the wire under the plastic sheath until performance begins suffer. What most people dont understand is that electrons travel on the surface of the copper wire, not in the copper wire. When the ground wire is less conductive, it forces the alternator and battery to work harder. In many cases of electrical gremlins in our vehicles its a case of bad grounding.

Since you are going to the effort of building a new ground cable, you might as well up size the cable for better performance. I believe the oem wire is 6 gauge wire. I am stepping up to size 4 gauge cable. I prefer the swaged terminal end because battery acid is less likely to gain access to the copper wire and corrode the cable again.



To begin the project you will need some supplies.
New generic black battery cable 42" long. (Advance auto parts $7.50)
1/4" copper end lugs (walmart $3.50)
Electrical solder
Electrical tape
Common tools i.e. pliers, propane plumbing torch, wire cutters, 10mm and 12mm ratchet wrench



You will need to disconnect the battery cables and remove the battery, battery tray and air box to gain access to the ground points. There are 3- 10mm bolts in the bottom of the air box. 2- 10mm nuts holding the battery in place, 2- 10mm nuts on the battery terminals. The intake runners have 10mm bolts. Use pliers to disconnect the vacuum hoses on the air box. There is a clip that holds small ground wires on the back side of the airbox. Unplug the MAF sensor and remove the plastic intake runner, airbox lid. Remove the airbox base and you will see the entire black battery wire. The ground wire has 2 ground wires. One connects to the transmission and the other below the battery tray. It wont be entirely obvious at first. You will need to carefully cut the old electrical tape to release the wire from the protective wire cover. There are small wires in with it so cut shallow and slowly.







The original wire is 34" long. I always purchase a longer cable because you have room to make mistakes. In this case, I am going to cut the new cable to the same length as to the oem wire. The cut piece will then be used for the secondary ground wire under the battery tray as you can see in the above picture. The cut piece already has a lug on the end so it saved me an extra step. You will need to solder the wires together securely to the same length as the factory wire. A little solder iron wont get it hot enough, so thats where the plumbers torch comes in. Once you are happy with your solder, wrap it in electrical tape. In my project I used a new silcone wrap tape found in most plumbing departments that is heat resistant and sticks to itself to self seal. It wont harden with heat like tape does. Keep in mind you dont want acid or water to get inside the cable again. I used the electrical tape to secure the silcone wrap.




We still have to add a copper lug to the main ground to the transmission. Strip off about 1.5" of plastic sheathing and slip the 1/4" copper lug on the bare end. You can use pliers here but you need a lot of force to securely crimp the end onto the cable. So I use a bench vice to crimp the end on. This crimp is not going to securely retain the wire permanently. You will need to solder it together.




What I do is hang it downward and heat the lug with the torch until it smokes and then flow the solder Into the lug until its filled. Then let it cool and harden.

There are two ground points. The screwdriver is pointing to the transmission bolt



The screwdriver is pointing to the battery tray bolt



Once you bolt the new cable in place it will no longer fit under the wire cover with the rest of the factory wires. Tape up the wire loom cover together to keep the factory wires in place and simply zip tie the new battery ground to the loom in 4 or 5 places. Reinstalled the airbox and battery and you are done.









There was a notable increase in the speed of the starter when when I was finished. The next step is to replace the red battery cable. But the ground is most important.

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Last edited by Drcoffee; 02-03-2017 at 06:13 AM.
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 08:40 AM
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Re: battery draining fast when cold outside

Thanks Dr. Unfortunately the link isn't getting me there.


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