To read the original full thread and post questions/comments on this topic, please go to https://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forum...l-install.html
The project is now completed and everything works!
Full details are included in this thread. I also have a .pdf file I could send or I will see if I can get it attached here with some help.
First, I would like everyone to know this was a joint effort between myself and fellow member N928KC. The original pad idea was Casey's and the actual pad installation was done by him. A ton of e-mails went back and forth between us to complete this project. Thank you Casey.
Second, the project is complete and everything works correctly. However, I think a larger pad would work better. Casey and I are currently working on that and I need to add some additonal detail to describe the specific pad installation process.
FJ Cruiser heated mirror installation guide (section 1)
Heating pads: Burco Redi Heat #3801 (size 3 ¼” x 5 ¾” > recommend 5” x 7”)
Wire Harness: Muth #H-MOD (harness, switch, timer, etc. – everything needed is here)
Note: This kit includes the built-in 10 minute defroster timer = plug and chug!
Heater pad on the right
All you will need are basic hand tools. If you don’t own those, what can I say!
1 new tool I did purchase was a door panel tool at Napa. $10. Good investment
Let’s get started.
I would recommend doing 1 door/mirror at a time. Get it done, test it, put it back together and move onto the next door.
Remove the plastic door sill plate. Use a flat bladed screwdriver or trim tool. Start at the rear seat area (you will see a “joint” area just behind the front seats – start there) and go towards the front. Pull upwards and it pops right off. Be careful where it joins onto the front kick panel, it can hang up there.
Remove the kick panel. There is a knob like screw on the front floor board that needs to removed first. The panel basically just pulls off towards the rear of the vehicle.
Note: At this time, make sure your window is in the up position.
Remove the door panel. There are 2 screws and a plastic fastener that need to be removed first. Grab handle, door handle, front upper area. Push the little pin slightly in and the fastener can be removed.
To “pop” the door panel off, start in the lower front area near the speaker. Insert your tool between the panel and the door and pop it out. Move around the outside perimeter on both sides and the bottom. Once it is lose, lift the panel upwards. Now once the panel is free, you are going to have to reach behind it and remove the power window switch plug and the power door switch plug. They will have “pressure release” tabs on them. Squeeze and pull. The door panel will now be free except for the door cables. Sit the panel on a plastic tub because the cables are not long enough for it to sit on the floor.
Remove the speaker and mirror access panels.
Remove the mirror glass from the mirror. Tilt the mirror as far inward at the top as possible. Put a piece of tape on the bottom of the mirror.
Insert a round shank flat bladed screwdriver up between the mirror and the mirror mounting pedestal. The picture shows the “mounting pedestal” in the center. Notice the tool marks on the bottom. That’s where you want to be.
Twist your screw driver and you will feel the mirror pop free. It needs to pop free on the bottom and the two sides. When the mirror has popped free and is pivoted out about 30 degrees at the bottom, then grasp both sides of the mirror and pull downwards. There are molded fingers on the mirror which need to come out of the “pedestal”. Look at left side piece, just outside the circle around the “X”, below the 4 squares. Pry those out and they are busted!
Remove the outer mirror trim piece. There are 3 screws and a little squeeze tab on the lower outside (see the RH picture above). Pull or gently pry the trim piece from the mirror body (if you pry, do it carefully). Start on the lower outside corner and work your way up the mirror away from the vehicle (right side on passenger, left on driver).
When you get to the “top/outer” corner, be careful. There is a molded locking tab there that has to be released. My RH mirror is now missing one of those!
Once the outside of the mirror trim piece is loose, pivot the trim piece towards the vehicle. The trim piece kind of rolls out of the inward side clips. Be careful.
Remove the mirror from the door. Unplug it, remove the 3 screws, followed by releasing the fingers on the nylon clippy thing. Hang on to mirror or it takes a dive here. Use a screwdriver to release the fingers.
Remove the harness bracket from the back of the mirror (1 screw).
Pull the rubber gasket loose and make a slit in the gasket were my “finger” is. This is where the heater wires will go through.
Ok, we are done with the mirror for a little bit. Set it down, take a break and go have a beer.
Prepare for routing the heater harness. Release the two plastic clips that hold the rubber door gasket onto the door around the area of the door harness bracket (pink clips in the picture).
To do that, reach in through the speaker hole and squeeze the clips and they will release.
Remove the metal harness bracket (2 screws) from the door, remove the harness tape, and unclip the plastic part from the bracket.
Run the heater harness thru the mirror and thru the slit gasket. Note: The heater harness will be 1 black and 1 red wire. The pictures show additional wires which were used for the mirror signal project.
Run the harness up thru the body of the mirror and out the top. Leave plenty of excess wire to trim later. Note: Mirror is not reassembled yet as shown in the picture.
Pull the wires a little further thru the mirror stem, wrap them with duct tape to act as a wear sleeve and pull the harness back unto the mirror stem. You can see the same was done on the factory wires behind the new wires shown.
Remount the mirror harness bracket. Note location of new wires, they need to be as shown in the picture.
Sorry ...... I am limited to 25 images.
Go to "Heated Mirror - Full Install (phase 3) - to continue"