Part 2 – The Wiring
20Amp mini fuses - Littelfuse MIN20BP MINI 297 – Amazon $3.14
Fuse Holder - Littelfuse FHM2BP MINI In-Line Fuseholder – Amazon $5.39
ANL Fuse holder - Raptor RGFHW-ANL Rose Gold Fuse Holder ANL 1/0 In and Out – Amazon $11.35
ANL 250amp Fuse - DB Link ANL250 250 Amp ANL Fuse – Amazon $4.99 Amazon Total $38.13
4 pack Screw on 1g ring terminals - Lightning Battery Cable Compression Fittings – jcwhitney $25.99
JCWhitney Total $32.98
Battery Cable Cutter - CHANNELLOCK 911 – Summit Racing $19.95
Battery Cables & terminals - Summit Racing SUM-G1208 – Summit Racing $79.95
Solenoid - Painless Wiring 40112 – Summit Racing $91.95
Heat Shrink - Taylor Cable 41056 – Summit Racing $6.99
Summit Total $210.79
Grand Total No Switch $~302 (including battery tray)
I’m sure it can be done for even less.
Switch DPDT - VJDJD66B-00000-000 – OTRATTW $9.00
Switch Lense - VVASC2J-100 – OTRATTW $3.
Deep sockets for ratchet
Heat Gun – for shrink tube
15mm wrench - for twisting the ring terminals
Vice – Used for holding wire when threading the ring terminals
Allen wrench - for fuse holder
8mm x20mm Stainless bolt
2 - 6mm x 20mm bolt,
4- 3/8 washers and one
2 - 6mm lock nut
6mm x 45mm Stainless bolt
16 gauge wire
A pic of the parts
I started with the placement of the Solenoid. On top of the driver side fender was perfect, the existing holes were an added bonus.
I used one 6mm x 20mm bolt, 2- 3/8 washers and one 6mm lock nut on each side. Put the ground wire with the ring terminal on it through one of the bolts.
Bolts from underneath the fender
I cut the negative cable to ~28”. Slide one of the heat shrink tubes onto the wire, strip the end so it will fit into one of the ring terminals.
Thread on the ring terminal
Slide up the heat shrink tube and use a heat gun for a nice fit
Make sure to have the battery terminal and the ring terminal parallel.
Pull down the flap under the passenger side wheel, there is a threaded unused hold in the frame, clean it out with a pipe cleaner and some liquid wrench. This bolt shows the location, it is a 8mmx 20mm stainless.
The cable mounted to the frame
Looking down from above, the cable is far from the exhaust and engine.
The battery terminal covers don’t fit over the crimp, I sliced the bottom and zip tied it on the negative terminal of the aux battery.
Install the supplied wire clamps onto the metal posts, use 6mm locking nuts to hold them on, there are six posts.
The next cable is the positive, disconnect the negative cable on the aux battery. I cut the positive cable, from the tip of the terminal to ~11.5”
Put the 250A fuse into the fuse holder, strip the end of the positive cable and place it into the fuse holder. Make sure the fuse holder is perpendicular to the battery terminal.
I test fit the fuse holder into where it is going.
The cable is going to hold up the fuse holder with easy, but it could vibrate against the body, I cut strips of Velcro and placed them on the feet. I didn’t attach the adhesive until I was done.
Strip the end of the spool of positive battery cable and connect it to the other end of the fuse holder, place everything where it is going to make the next measurement, run the cable along the body to the solenoid and make the next cut, make sure to account for the length of the ring terminal. This piece was ~ 58”. Slide a shrink tube over the and end screw on another ring terminal.
Here is the entire cable run from the battery to the solenoid.
Now measure a piece of cable to go from the other terminal on the solenoid to the main battery positive terminal. I cut a piece ~ 19”
Slide a heat shrink tube on each end then screw on a ring terminal to each end, the terminal should be parallel. Attach both ends. Notice I bought a large bolt for the battery terminal, I couldn’t fit everything on the stock one, I use a 6mm x45mm stainless.
I cut the cover for the positive terminal of the aux battery as I did for the negative and zip tied it on.