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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-22-2008, 12:10 PM
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REAR CARGO STORAGE SOLUTIONS: Compilation of different members' builds

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Well first, let me start of by saying this is my first ever project of this magnitude.
I first did all my research here at which was pretty help full
and also got good advice from LandCruiserSteve and Tubig, thanks guys for the
pointers. And to everyone else that had there own home grown rear gear boxes
which gave me plenty of ideas to go off of.

So here's what i did, i pretty much planed it out and drew out my ideas.
But of course that went over to smooth, so i wasn't surprised when later
i found my plans on my son's art desk, colored, and pretty much unreadable.
so that's when i pretty much wing it and just cut and see what happens.

day one: i planed out my plans, drew the blue prints, (then my son added red,
green, yellow, more blue, glue and food crumbs)

day two: bought the wood, paint, nails, carpet, screws, and everything else
got home and drew the base board lines out on the wood.

day three: cut, cut, and cut some more.

day four: attempted to put the pieces together, and when they weren't lining up
accordingly, i cut some more,

day five: prime time then slap on some paint.

day six: time to lay down some carpet! i think that was the easiest part of this project.
and put together in my FJ Negro

day seven: all was good, so i rested.

My make shift work bench

First fit test

Fit test with rails, and outlet cut out

Burning the midnight oil trying to build the drawers

Drawers, done, 2:30 am

Prime time, drawers.

Prime time, Gear Box.

Slapping on the paint

Final fit test.

Holding it down.

This box is bolted.

MY Rear Gear Box!!

Drawers carpeted.

Drawers with Heavy duty rails, Profile shot.

It is Finished.....

so there you have it, it may not be perfect, but it serves its purpose for me.
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Last edited by LandCruiserSteve; 04-23-2008 at 09:21 AM.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-22-2008, 09:27 PM
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REAR CARGO STORAGE SOLUTIONS: Compilation of different members' builds

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The idea of this box came from LandCruiserSteve’s design of his original “Box”. This one is basically a single storage box that has a space under the roll out drawer for the sleeping platform to fold up and be stored in. Does not require removal of the back seat. Basically butts right up to the back seats when they are folded up. Uses similar hardware as Steve’s original “Box”. It has two storage trays. One behind the roll out (will accommodate a rifle with a 20” barrel or air compressor) and one inside the rear of the roll out (will accommodate a pistol grip shot gun or tire chains). The sleeping trays fold into each other via a piano hinge (one is slightly smaller than the other). The legs unscrew from the pipe flange base and store within the tray when it is closed. The top lid of the storage box then opens from the top via another piano hinge, drawer rolls out and the platform then slides under the roll out for storage. When used as a sleeping platform the two trays have a reinforcing steel plate on the interior/bottom sides. This plate spans the gap between the two trays where the piano hinge to add rigidity. All materials are made out of 12 gauge (1/8) alum. All trays/sleeping platforms are formed boxes built with a press for strength. Roll out slides are rated for 300 lbs and lock. Top surface will be checker plate for traction and the rest is smooth alum, all will be painted gray to match the interior. Calculated weight is around 96 lbs. Construction starts this weekend. Locking mechanism is the only thing left to figure out. So far I’m leaning towards a simple padlocks. Thoughts appreciated

Ok we got started on it today. About 3/4's of the way there. Still need to add the dividers in the roll out, finish the trim on the front of the roll out to cover up the gaps, rivet in the piano hinge, and fab up the sleeping platform etc. After all is said and done I put all the materials on the scale & the box with sleeping platform weighed in at 101 lbs. Decided to go with 12 gauge smooth aluminum for everything. 300 lb locking drawers so there is zero shake or movement. The interior will be lined with ¼” high density foam. The box will be silent. You can see the blue tab that locks and unlocks the drawer. Kind of a nifty slider, it locks half way as well if you want. The locking mechanism is still leaning towards a simple padlock type set up. Unless any one has a better idea? Turned out to have 6’4” of sleeping surface. The extra weight in the back is exactly what the OME Heavies needed. Any way I should have more pics coming up once it finished. Maybe Wednesday. Here is were it's at for now:

What it will look like open:

You can see the locking mechanism blue tab on the right side of the roll out:

Here is a example how it would store a 20" barrelled rifle (extra room is for foam):

My box measurements were made with seats pushed fully forward, bottoms removed, seat backs laid fully forward and a air mattress in the back which puts you level with were the seat bottoms would have protruded into your sleeping area. You then get about four more inches of head room.

I'm restricted to steel or aluminum, plywood is nice but you lose the interior space and I'm worried about the legalities. It's tough to build a box that is secure but yet light. One big reason why I went with 1/8th formed alum. over plywood. Just enough room for ammo box, 20" rifle or air compressor etc. My experience with plywood is poor. On my old BJ42 Land Cruiser I built a plywood box (I used the best 3/4" 100 % Douglas Fir...yes it was a long wait to get it) with wood screws nails etc....basically a way overbuilt box and with four tire chains bouncing around it came apart. It took years of beating but after time it fell apart. This may of been because it had no top a lot of the time and moisture weekend it, but for the price of plywood these days alum. was my choice. In my opinion if you want to carry tire chains 12 months out of the year (and I do) you need steel or alum. Simply because they bounce & beat the s$&t out of your box. My old plywood box had high density foam glued to the top, bottom & sides which was not very noisy but the logging roads and the bounce took its toll on the box.

Lots of mods....see build thread:
It's a good life...if you don't weaken !

Last edited by LandCruiserSteve; 04-27-2008 at 08:18 AM.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-24-2008, 10:38 AM
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REAR CARGO STORAGE SOLUTIONS: Compilation of different members' builds

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I think this is more like a bed frame..

The requirement:

We want to be able to sleep inside the truck when we dont feel like setting up tent. The FJ lacks storage compartment, and I need some to haul all my stuff, the plastic tub I used in previous truck doesnt have enough room anymore. Oh and we want to sleep with the door closed...

I didnt want to remove the back seat completely because I might have to haul co-workers/people in the back seat when needed. The compromise: remove just the seat bottoms and leave the seat back & fold them down.

First I build a "ghetto box" for the cargo area to store my stuff:

Now you know why I call it the ghetto box.. two tubs as drawers because I cant cut things into right size and have no skill making any sort of container that has any hope of fitting into those slots:

pull out:

small section of the box top opens up:

The frame is made with something like 15/32" plywood. It holds me and my husband pretty well.. and I stand on the edge of the frame when I need to get/put stuff on the roof rack too. It seems to hold..

The folded seat back is a problem area. I didnt really want to put any weight on it directly, so I figured I will just run some "beams" across and find something out front to sit the beams on.

The board on the right hand side uses the seat bottom holes (4 bolts & nuts) and seemed to be pretty sturdy.

Another reason to do it this way is I dont want to be driving a bed frame around, it will probably make a lot of noise...

I later carpeted the front board so it does not look as ghetto..

then to hold the board vertically up so we can have a flat surface area:

Originally I used nylon strap but velcro works just as well. I like velcros..

Then the cross beams:

This is the second revision, the original version I used 2x4s ... they were bulky and I have no place to carry it.. the Thule load bar comes in handy.. I got a pair of 78" bar (cheapest per inch) and cut them in halves.. plasti-dip the ends so I dont have to file them.. It's not pretty but it works..

The bars are just sitting on the wood block screwed onto the cargo frame.

to make sure they dont slide I tie them with bungee cords. I have no picture for that.

Then two boards to form the platform:

and we have our platform:

with sleeping pads and bags (and pillows!)

to stow it:

stacking the two boards:

Instead of the two section boards I can probably use a bigger single board, but then I couldnt store it in the mid section of the truck. This way I got a flat spot to put my stuff..

One of the challenges I have when making this is we have sloped drive way, so it took me a few tries to sort of leveled this thing..

We tested this out last weekend camping in Yosemite. It does not wiggle & hold both me and my husband pretty well. Although being the taller one (6') my husband cant really move much inside besides "getting into the sleeping bag". It doesnt feel cramped (much) and we both were able to have a good night of sleep.. so this sort of worked.

Last edited by LandCruiserSteve; 04-24-2008 at 05:20 PM.
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-16-2008, 04:17 PM
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Wink REAR CARGO STORAGE SOLUTIONS: Compilation of different members' builds

I thought I would post up some pic's of my "system". I have been drawing it out and designing it for over a year now. I came to the point after getting my Engel Fridge/Freezer to go ahead and build it. I wanted the fridge close to the driver so I didn't have to exit the vehicle and go to the rear in bad weather.

I also wanted a place to house my on board air system. I had planned on getting the VIAIR system, but at the last minute decided to go with an upgraded compressor with the WARN SPI. It's large enough to run any air tool or air the tires up straight from the compressor. It hasn't come in yet, but it will go in the rear right hand side on the box in it's own compartment. I installed the gauge and air hose conector, but still have to install the regulator and on/off switch.

I also wanted a drawer system for my tools instead of hatches. With hatches, you would have to remove anything that was stored on top of the box in order to get to it. I didn't like that idea myself. With the drawers, I made two different sizes, one is 5.5" deep the other is 3.5" deep. The top drawer will house all my wrenches, sockets and screw drivers. The bottom drawer is incomplete as of yet. I still need to make dividers inside and a top section to house pliers, impacts, etc.

The front compartment will house all my camping gear such as BBQ, chairs, sleeping pad, cook wear, etc. This area also is not finished, it will get dividers also. Behind the fridge will be my (2) 2.5 gal Scepter water cans. I prefer the smaller ones instead of having one bulky 5 gal can.

Anyways, I thought I would post the progress so far, when the compressor comes in, I'll post up the rest of the finished project.

Well, If anything, I hope I gave some of you some ideas for your system.

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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-21-2011, 09:14 AM
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Re: Unique Mods.. Post your pix here

My old storage box, I just never posted pics of it...

Here are pics of just the Main Rear Box in the Truck:

Driver Seat with Passenger Box:

Passenger Box:

All Boxes:

Driver Box:

Driver Box with Passenger Seat:

Pics of the entire setup...

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