How To: 2011 Oil Change - Page 3 - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum
Maintenance Tech This forum is for discussion of all aspects of maintenance that should be performed on the FJ Cruiser to keep it operating at maximum efficiency.

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post #21 of 249 (permalink) Old 04-04-2011, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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Re: How To: 2011 Oil Change

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Ivan70 previously said: View Post
Great write up! Already done 3 oil changes on 2010, couldn`t have said it better. Well done sir!
Thanks. I try to contribute where I can.

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By the way, did you lose that oil pan cover on the factory engine skid? I threw it away lol
I see no real reason to keep it there unless someone can tell me why. It's just a small oval plate made of sheet metal, and I don't see how it could provide much protection from anything but mud and road salt.

-FJ Florida-
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post #22 of 249 (permalink) Old 04-05-2011, 07:35 AM
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Re: How To: 2011 Oil Change

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FJ Florida previously said: View Post
So do I as it roars to life.



I read an article somewhere (maybe here) that the FJ has never required premium gas. It was explained like this in what I read: a "research" octane of at least 92 was specified by Toyota.

There are two octane ratings, research octane and motor octane, with research octane being the higher of the two by about 10. We average together the two numbers to get the octane rating that we see on the pump (R+M/2). So, 87 octane was fine according to this article that I read.

Toyota finally updated their statement to stop the confusion. Personally I am using 89 because I seem to get a bit more mileage out of it.

By the way, I found out that all gasolines are not created equal, contrary to what I always had been told. I'll post a new thread on that. In my city, Toyota/Lexus only recognizes 4 brands of gas as "top tier" to prevent deposits, and they aren't who I expected.

-FJ Florida-
That makes a bit more sense now why they can push the oil change intervals to 10,000 miles with synthetic. The more oil the better also a good fail-safe knowing your it will take longer for your oil level to go down. I'm curious to know if the 6.4 qt capacity can be added as a mod to the previous model years?

The sticker inside my fuel lid does specify "Premium Fuel" but I use regular (89 octane) most of the time. The only time I will fill with premium is when I tow my dual ATV trailer (very heavy) and when offroad.

I'm with you on the engine roar first thing in the morning it sounds awesome. My AFE cat-back really adds to the tone... just love it!

BTY, excellent write-up!

We're here for a good time not a long time.

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post #23 of 249 (permalink) Old 04-05-2011, 08:23 AM
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Re: How To: 2011 Oil Change

I received the 2 year free maintenance when I bought my '10 FJ, my 1st service was at 5k and was told that they would top off the fluids if needed and rotate the tires, the oil change would come at 10K.
I want them to do the 1st oil change, once that is done I will do an in beween oil and filter change as I have never done oil changes at over 5k even using synthetic oil, but I would hate for something to go wrong if I did the 1st oil change and have them forfeit the agreement.
I saw at Advance Auto Parts both Fram and Purolator oil filters for under
$5 and included both small and large oil rings, along with a plastic piece used to drain the filter case, just a FYI.
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post #24 of 249 (permalink) Old 04-06-2011, 05:55 PM
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Re: How To: 2011 Oil Change

My dealer said if you bring in your own oil they'll do the oil change with the rest of the maintenance tasks at 5K at no charge.

Whether that's just them or a Toyota thing I don't know, but the $45 or so for 7 quarts of Mobil 1 0W-20 seems a nit if you're going to keep the vehicle long-term.
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post #25 of 249 (permalink) Old 04-06-2011, 08:54 PM
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Re: How To: 2011 Oil Change

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In the picture, it looks like the primary differences are metal end caps and an extra seal and different filter media. Any other major differences?

I wonder if we ALL should be using this filter. Shouldn't we all be using the best?

-FJ Florida-
Other then the aluminum flange around the filter and gaskets on the top and bottom, the TRD filter is much more solid then the stock one. The pleats on the filter seem more fine, to trap more sediment and filter properly. For $15 you can't go wrong.

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post #26 of 249 (permalink) Old 04-11-2011, 09:44 PM
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Re: How To: 2011 Oil Change

$15 for the TRD filter seems kinda price to me just to have an enclosed type top and bottom on the element. So I looked around and found FRAM CH10158.


It comes with the element both O-rings and the drain tool (though slightly different than the one in the OP post) just like the WIX but the ends are capped like the TRD filter. It was $7 at my local O'Reilly and the FRAM website lists it as the exact cross reference as the WIX number.

Part Details

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post #27 of 249 (permalink) Old 04-12-2011, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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Re: How To: 2011 Oil Change

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lqdchkn previously said: View Post
$15 for the TRD filter seems kinda price to me just to have an enclosed type top and bottom on the element. So I looked around and found FRAM CH10158.


It comes with the element both O-rings and the drain tool (though slightly different than the one in the OP post) just like the WIX but the ends are capped like the TRD filter. It was $7 at my local O'Reilly and the FRAM website lists it as the exact cross reference as the WIX number.

Part Details
Any filtration specs on that filter? I haven't used a Fram filter since one disintigrated on me several years ago. Cardboard inside the filter blew out as soon as I started the car. What a mess.

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post #28 of 249 (permalink) Old 04-12-2011, 06:22 PM
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Re: How To: 2011 Oil Change

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Any filtration specs on that filter? I haven't used a Fram filter since one disintigrated on me several years ago. Cardboard inside the filter blew out as soon as I started the car. What a mess.

-FJ Florida-
Well it's classified as part of their ExtraGuard line which is their basic filter series. Here's the generic details their website lists for this product line:

"With an ideal balance of dirt-trapping efficiency and dirt-holding capacity, every FRAM oil filter uses a special blend of fibers and resin providing a proprietary filter media that delivers excellent engine protection.
•The most commonly used filter media is cellulose, which is a natural material that presents a random and irregular field of fibers to the oil. By itself, it can only deliver about 80% dirt-trapping efficiency.
•By adding microscopic synthetic fibers, small windows are created that trap the smaller dirt particles without affecting the flow of oil. Blending synthetic fibers with cellulose increases a filter’s dirt-trapping efficiency and its dirt-holding capacity for higher levels of engine protection and longer filter life.

1.VS LEADING ECONOMY FILTERS' AVERAGE. FRAM Engine Protection ratings are based on multiplying an oil filter's dirt-trapping efficiency by its dirt-holding capacity.
2.Honeywell testing of filter efficiency and capacity of models equivalent to PH8A, 3387A and 6607 under ISO 4548-12 for particles > 20 microns. Engine protection is the FRAM measure of a filter’s ability to not just trap dirt but hold it for the life of the filter.
3.Honeywell testing of filter efficiency (using FRAM XG3387A and XG8A average) and dirt holding capacity (using XG8A average only) and their leading economy filter equivalents under ISO 4548-12 for particles > 20 microns.
4.Follow recommended change intervals as noted in your vehicle's owner's manual. 10,000-mile change interval under normal driving conditions using fully synthetic motor oil."
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post #29 of 249 (permalink) Old 04-12-2011, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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Re: How To: 2011 Oil Change

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Well it's classified as part of their ExtraGuard line which is their basic filter series. Here's the generic details their website lists for this product line:

"With an ideal balance of dirt-trapping efficiency and dirt-holding capacity, every FRAM oil filter uses a special blend of fibers and resin providing a proprietary filter media that delivers excellent engine protection.
•The most commonly used filter media is cellulose, which is a natural material that presents a random and irregular field of fibers to the oil. By itself, it can only deliver about 80% dirt-trapping efficiency.
•By adding microscopic synthetic fibers, small windows are created that trap the smaller dirt particles without affecting the flow of oil. Blending synthetic fibers with cellulose increases a filter’s dirt-trapping efficiency and its dirt-holding capacity for higher levels of engine protection and longer filter life.

1.VS LEADING ECONOMY FILTERS' AVERAGE. FRAM Engine Protection ratings are based on multiplying an oil filter's dirt-trapping efficiency by its dirt-holding capacity.
2.Honeywell testing of filter efficiency and capacity of models equivalent to PH8A, 3387A and 6607 under ISO 4548-12 for particles > 20 microns. Engine protection is the FRAM measure of a filter’s ability to not just trap dirt but hold it for the life of the filter.
3.Honeywell testing of filter efficiency (using FRAM XG3387A and XG8A average) and dirt holding capacity (using XG8A average only) and their leading economy filter equivalents under ISO 4548-12 for particles > 20 microns.
4.Follow recommended change intervals as noted in your vehicle's owner's manual. 10,000-mile change interval under normal driving conditions using fully synthetic motor oil."
Hmmmmmm ... I will track down one of these Fram filters and take a look at it.

I looked at the Purolator and did not like it. Then I looked at the WIX, and it looked like the Toyota OEM filter, only it had slightly thinner filter material and more pleats.

I am thinking I will just use Toyota OEM at this point. They are cheap enough. If I can get a deal on the TRD filters online, I'll probably use those.

-FJ Florida-
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post #30 of 249 (permalink) Old 04-12-2011, 09:08 PM
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Re: How To: 2011 Oil Change

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Thanks for this write up! i'll see if i can get LCS to add this to the technical articles.



Even more a PITA for folks with heavy skids like budbuilts.
Yes. It's a sunuvabish. Toyota you're supposed to "Move FORWARD". Toyota must have run out of brainstorming ideas and realized everything old must be new/reinvented again.

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