Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum banner

How To: 2011 Oil Change

174K views 269 replies 122 participants last post by  ElegantSplendor 
#1 · (Edited)
OK, I just finished my first 2011 FJ oil change at just over 1,200 miles. Not being familiar with the FJ or its cartridge-style oil filter, it was an ordeal, but the first time is the hardest. Now that I know how to do it, it will not be so bad in the future. For anyone who has not done it yet, here is how, with pictures attached.

Step 1 - Remove the front skid plate. It is held on with four 12 mm bolts. You will need a socket wrench and a short extension. Break all four bolts loose at the locations shown in the attached pic. Toyota had torqued these to some ridiculous torque, but I finally busted them loose. The front of the skid plate has hooks to support it so take out the front two bolts first. Then support the skid plate as you remove the two rear bolts. Lower the back of the skid plate to the ground, and the front hooks should then release so you can remove it and set it aside.

Step 2- Remove the oval shaped metal plate covering the engine oil pan and drain plug. It has two 12 mm bolts. See attached picture.

Step 3 - Remove the metal bottom from the filter assembly using a 3/8" drive socket wrench extension. A little oil will drip out so you may want to cover it with a paper towel. See attached picture with the brass threads exposed.

Step 4 - Attach a foot of 5/8" fuel line to the plastic filter draining tool. Push the draining tool into the filter hard, and the oil will run out through the hose. When you pull out the draining tool, the small O ring should come out with it. If not, use your fingers to remove it - do not use any type of metal object because you may damage the sealing surface of the filter.

Step 5 - Use a 65 mm 14 flat cap style oil filter wrench to unscrew the plastic filter housing. Toyota had torqued this filter in place so hard I could not believe it. I am not sure if the 65 mm is too small or if mine is just a crummy tool, but I had to tap it onto the filter by force - very, very tight fit requiring a lot of force to put it on and take it off - be careful. It worked though. Difficult to get on and off the filter. Brand: Performance Tool part #W54074 from Advance Auto Parts - $5.99. See pic of the metal filter housing that remains attached to the engine.

Step 6 - Remove the old filter element, remove the old large O ring at the top of the plastic filter housing (fingers only!), lubricate the new O ring with clean oil, and place it on the plastic filter housing. Insert the new filter element. Clean everything up as best you can - it gets messy - 0W20 is thin and runs everywhere. Reinstall the plastic filter housing with the new filter element inside. I am not accustomed to tightening O ring seals and plastic parts until they bottom out, but that's the way Toyota did it, so that's the way I put it back. I did not tighten it to the insane torque of the factory though. I tightened it firmly after it bottomed out, but not insanely hard. No leaks - yeah!

Step 7 - Lubricate the small O ring and reinstall the metal filter housing bottom with the new O ring behind it using a 3/8" socket extension. Again, it bottomed out, and I just tightened it firmly after it bottomed out, and I have no leaks.

Step 8 - Remove the oil pan drain bolt with a 14 mm socket. I wasn't prepared for the torrent of oil released by my FJ - my pan was about to overflow. Note to self: get bigger oil drain pan.

Step 9 - Do whatever it takes to get the fiber drain plug washer off. That thing was stuck on there so hard I was almost thinking it was part of the metal drain pan. A wooden dowel and a whack knocked it loose without damaging the sealing surface. I used a ribbed (for my pleasure) nylon washer that I hope will not stick like that. No leaks - yeah!

Step 10 - Put in 6.4 quarts of Mobil-1 0W20 oil. Geez, the Japanese shure like to torque stuff - I could barely get the oil filler cap off!

Step 11 - Start the engine and check for leaks. If there are none, reinstall the cover over the oil drain pan. Any reason not to just leave this off? Ideas? The oil pan would still be well protected.

Step 12 - Reinstall the front skid plate. Let it hang by the front two metal tabs as you put in one of the rear bolts. Don't tighten the bolts until you have all four of them in because it takes some moving around to get all four holes aligned.

Repeat every 5,000 miles - I don't care if Toyota does say 10,000 is OK - I am not going that long.

Note: at 1,200 miles the oil was much more dirty than I expected. It wasn't jet black, but it was very dirty. A close inspection of the used filter element revealed several flecks of metal in each of the filter pleats. That's just what was visibile to the eye - who knows how much microscopic metal was stuck in it?

It could be psychological, but I swear the engine is quieter than I ever have heard it at idle after the oil change???

OK everyone with a 2011 - go change your oil with confidence. I hope this saves everyone some time and effort.

See second part of this post for the rest of the pics and a little additional information.

-FJ Florida-
 

Attachments

See less See more
5
#2 · (Edited)
Moderator, I am sure a lot of people over the next year buying 2011 FJ's will want to access this information. Can it be made into a sticky or something?

The rest of the pics are attached.

If you are in a pinch and temporarily unable to get a genuine Toyota filter for some reason, WIX 57173 seems to be decent quality (filter material seems not as thick, but has about 8 more pleats than Toyota) and it fits until you can get a genuine Toyota filter.

-FJ Florida-
 

Attachments

#12 ·
To add, I just replaced my oil for the first time on my 2011. Instructions came in handy, thanks FJ Florida. I've changed cartridge style filters before, so it wasn't to difficult.

I used the following TRD filter (PT# PTR43-00079) instead of the stock filter, $15 at the dealer along withe 6.4q of 0-20W Mobile 1. The engine oil was fairly dirty, but I also live in Arizona; so much more dust... Did not see any metal shavings on the old filter.

The nice thing about the TRD filter, it came with some nice instructions for TQ specs and steps for filter replacement.
 

Attachments

#11 · (Edited)
I agree with both statements. I have done my firs 1500 oil change and for 20 years of doing this my self it was the worst experience. You have no way to avoid some mess and it takes much more effort. Who in right mind could create a design to remove a skid plate every oil change? I did not see cartridge-type filter design at least 50 years. When I did my oil change, I felt like I went back to 50-th on a Time Machine!

I do not like it not only because of this. Most important, in my opinion, this design does not allow reliable sealing between filter and housing. Seal surface on the filter is quite hard and thin, and may be not perfectly flat and parallel to the housing surface, meaning some oil will bypass filter. Also, if you have small metal particles in the cup, it is nearly impossible to clean. I can not imagine any oil change stations thech or dialer would do this. This design definitely offers less protection to the filter including, that low positioned filter is not good for off-roaders, and can be damaged even behind not very strong stock skid plate on a trail.

I was completely sold on Toyota's perfect top spin-on oil filter design. If I new they changed it to buttom cartridge, I would think many times whether to buy 2009 model is a better option. Now I already decided use only TRD Oil filters. It has better, more rigid construction with frame and much better, thicker O-rings from red silicon to seal gap between filter and housing.

I already told my opinion to my dealer, but I think it will stay there. I really would like Toyota to know how we all (owners and I think Thechs as well) not happy about this change.
 
#5 · (Edited)
It is more work than unscrewing an all-in-one filter and screwing on a new one. Dropping the front skid plate is another PITA that could have been avoided by putting the filter in a more easily accessed location.

At least there is plenty of room to work underneath the FJ. I guess if you have a major engine malfunction, inspecting the filter element for metal particles will show the problem, but wouldn't you find out soon enough anyway?

I also am not really happy that Toyota is using a plastic housing for the filter. Whatever works I guess. I just hope the threads don't strip out. Be careful tightening it I guess. Plastic for something as critical as a pressurized oil filter on a vehicle that a lot of people use off road? Really? Seriously?

-FJ Florida-
 
#13 ·
As far as early initial oil changes, I would want to see more early used oil analysis before forming an opinion. My '04 Prius, I left the oil in until 5,000 km and it sampled fine.

With my '07 FJ, I was a bit surprised with such new technology, the oil was shot at only 2,500 km. TBN was 0, oil had sheared to a 20 weight, nitration and oxidation was sky high

So I changed it

Toyota has claimed to have changed the motor with the +2010 FJ's. Not sure what it involves, but one thing that would make me stay away is the PITA cartridge oil filter.

I can do an oil change on my FJ in 5 minutes. Almost too easy, certainly the easiest oil change with the exception of that 2000 GMC Sierra with Vortec 5.3 I used to have

Mind you, that GMC burned so much oil from new an oil change was a moot point
 
#16 ·
#18 ·
yes the 2010 and 2011 fj's engines take 6.4 quarts of oil and came factory filled with 0 W20 Synthetic oil.i love the mighty sound of the engine in the morning.does the 2008 fj's run on Premium gas? the 10's and 11's run on regular,plenty of take off power,so far no complians on my 2011 fj.i love the handling the power,not so much on the gas i get 16 mpg overrall city and highway.love to hear other's comment on their fj
 
#19 · (Edited)
I love the mighty sound of the engine in the morning.
So do I as it roars to life.

Does the 2008 fj's run on Premium gas? The 10's and 11's run on regular,plenty of take off power, so far no complians on my 2011 fj.
I read an article somewhere (maybe here) that the FJ has never required premium gas. It was explained like this in what I read: a "research" octane of at least 92 was specified by Toyota.

There are two octane ratings, research octane and motor octane, with research octane being the higher of the two by about 10. We average together the two numbers to get the octane rating that we see on the pump (R+M/2). So, 87 octane was fine according to this article that I read.

Toyota finally updated their statement to stop the confusion. Personally I am using 89 because I seem to get a bit more mileage out of it.

By the way, I found out that all gasolines are not created equal, contrary to what I always had been told. I'll post a new thread on that. In my city, Toyota/Lexus only recognizes 4 brands of gas as "top tier" to prevent deposits, and they aren't who I expected.

-FJ Florida-
 
#21 ·
Great write up! Already done 3 oil changes on 2010, couldn`t have said it better. Well done sir!
Thanks. I try to contribute where I can.

By the way, did you lose that oil pan cover on the factory engine skid? I threw it away lol
I see no real reason to keep it there unless someone can tell me why. It's just a small oval plate made of sheet metal, and I don't see how it could provide much protection from anything but mud and road salt.

-FJ Florida-
 
#23 ·
I received the 2 year free maintenance when I bought my '10 FJ, my 1st service was at 5k and was told that they would top off the fluids if needed and rotate the tires, the oil change would come at 10K.
I want them to do the 1st oil change, once that is done I will do an in beween oil and filter change as I have never done oil changes at over 5k even using synthetic oil, but I would hate for something to go wrong if I did the 1st oil change and have them forfeit the agreement.
I saw at Advance Auto Parts both Fram and Purolator oil filters for under
$5 and included both small and large oil rings, along with a plastic piece used to drain the filter case, just a FYI.
 
#24 ·
My dealer said if you bring in your own oil they'll do the oil change with the rest of the maintenance tasks at 5K at no charge.

Whether that's just them or a Toyota thing I don't know, but the $45 or so for 7 quarts of Mobil 1 0W-20 seems a nit if you're going to keep the vehicle long-term.
 
#88 ·
Did they throw in the filter? My dealer wants 20 bucks to change the oil if I bring in my own. A full priced oil change is 69$ so it almost isn't worth bringing in my own oil.
 
#26 · (Edited)
$15 for the TRD filter seems kinda price to me just to have an enclosed type top and bottom on the element. So I looked around and found FRAM CH10158.


It comes with the element both O-rings and the drain tool (though slightly different than the one in the OP post) just like the WIX but the ends are capped like the TRD filter. It was $7 at my local O'Reilly and the FRAM website lists it as the exact cross reference as the WIX number.

Part Details
 
#27 ·
Any filtration specs on that filter? I haven't used a Fram filter since one disintigrated on me several years ago. Cardboard inside the filter blew out as soon as I started the car. What a mess.

-FJ Florida-
 
#32 ·
Step 9 - Do whatever it takes to get the fiber drain plug washer off. That thing was stuck on there so hard I was almost thinking it was part of the metal drain pan. A wooden dowel and a whack knocked it loose without damaging the sealing surface. I used a ribbed (for my pleasure) nylon washer that I hope will not stick like that. No leaks - yeah!
Too bad I didn't see your post until I've changed oil on my 2010 FJ. I really thought the stuck washer was part of the oil pan, and I even added another washer to it! Not leaking so far :rocker:

I have the OEM filter wrench from toyota but that thing is very tight too.

I have Ricochet skids that mount over factory skids. The rear end of factory front skid is stuck under Ricochet's engine skid and doesn't come off so I dropped both front and engine skids. That's eight bolts to wrench with some heavy pieces but I was able to get everything done under the unlifted truck without jacking up.

Overall, it's still a lot of work for just an oil change! I might consider doing a quick oil drain and fill at 5000miles/6month and a full oil and filter change with skid plate cleaning at 10000miles/12month.
 
#33 ·
Wow what a pain in the ass just to change the oil! The part that would scare me the most is having to take down the stock skid plate. I had to take mine off to do some work to the truck and it took longer to put the skid back on then to do the repairs! It was all banged up and bent so the holes wouldn't line up. Two pry bars and three people to get it back on!
 
#37 ·
I have heard horribly stories about new cartridge type oil filter design. It is very easy to strip thread on plastic cup. I heard this from different people, including oil station personal. So, now we need torque wrench to do an oil change!
The other story was even worse. Toyota has many engines with this type oil filter in different sizes. It is easy to mix the filter number and install ether shorter or taller filter. You can not see the filter element when you tighten filter cup, which lives even more room for mistakes. Taller filter will be smashed and can easily clog the oil line. Short one will not filter oil at all. Both are very dangerous to the engine.
Now I can easily see how mechanics at any oil change facility can screw things up. They use to be able install longer or shorter filters, as long as filter has same connection sizes. This bad habit together with unusual and rare filter becomes fatal now. I try to assess risk to do an oil change anywhere, including dealerships. I do not buy story about oil change performed by only top trained mechanics, as it is low level job, and will be done always by low level temp personal.
I will check the filter part number at least twice every time I need to change my filter. And I wish you all good luck with our oil filters!
 
#38 ·
It is very easy to strip thread on plastic cup. <snip> Toyota has many engines with this type oil filter in different sizes. It is easy to mix the filter number and install ether shorter or taller filter. <snip> <snip> Taller filter will be smashed and can easily clog the oil line. Short one will not filter oil at all. <snip> I do not buy story about oil change performed by only top trained mechanics, as it is low level job, and will be done always by low level temp personal.
You raise good points and I cannot disagree with any of them

I suppose if I had a motor with the cartridge filter, I would actually compare the old one I just removed, to the new one about to go in. Just to verify they are the same height and width.

You can bet that any "mechanic" who changes your oil will just automatically put in whatever filter he has in his hands.

I can do an oil change on my '07 in 5 mins, 10 mins if I wait longer for the old oil to drain more. Not sure why Toyota had to change that, except to make DIY such a PITA that most who would change their own oil, will no longer do so
 
#39 ·
Would it be considered an advantage that the new filter location - dead center of the engine and upside down - would guarantee that the oil filter stays full of oil 100% of the time?

I agree on the plastic housing. POS for something as important as an oil filter. Should be metal. I also do not like the feeling of bottoming out O-rings, but that's the way Toyota did it, so that's the way I put it back.

Just don't cross thread the thing, and don't get too heavy handed with it I suppose.

I "like" changing my own oil because then I know the oil is genuine Mobil 1 and is 0W-20 and I can compare the new filter to the old. Who knows what the flunky at "Snippy Glube" might use?

-FJ Florida-
 
#41 ·
Would it be considered an advantage that the new filter location - dead center of the engine and upside down - would guarantee that the oil filter stays full of oil 100% of the time?
Dunno have never had any issues. Have had vehicles with cold start rod/bearing knock in cold weather, FJ isn't one of them.

I "like" changing my own oil because then I know the oil is genuine Mobil 1 and is 0W-20 and I can compare the new filter to the old. Who knows what the flunky at "Snippy Glube" might use?

-FJ Florida-
That is probably the most important reason to change your own oil
 
#40 ·
"..Would it be considered an advantage that the new filter location - dead center of the engine and upside down - would guarantee that the oil filter stays full of oil 100% of the time?"
Sorry for you all with the new oil filter set-up...2007 with filter up top and an access plate for the drain plug can't be beat. With over 105K miles and no engine problems,I don't think the filter being upside down is such a worry...though when I first got the truck and saw that filter location I wasn't sure.
 
#47 ·
As I said in my post, there were plenty of metal particles visible in the filter. That's just what was visible to the naked eye.

-FJ Florida-
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top